24 replies to this topic

[SchwanzBrewer]

Has anyone had trouble with their ball locks exploding because the pin could not depress the keg post? I think that was part of the problem at my golf tournament.I ended up screwing down the top of the ball lock as far as it would go in order to get the pin to depress the piston in the post. I will go through and clean all the posts the best I can and change the orings, but I would think that part of the reason the ball locks exploded was because the spring in the ball lock was weaker than the spring in the keg post.Any ideas? Is there another brand/type of ball lock that I should be using?Cheers,Rich

[RommelMagic]

was this the ball lock disconnect that exploded? Gas or liquid? Were they connected to the proper post? What type of pressurizing system were you using?

[SchwanzBrewer]

was this the ball lock disconnect that exploded? Gas or liquid? Were they connected to the proper post? What type of pressurizing system were you using?

Yes the disconnect when using the 16g chargers. I would think that the delivery sytem doesnt have anything to do with the exploding, unless i am thinking about the ball lock disconnect wrong. Yes they were on the right posts. As I understand it, when you put the disconnect on the gas post the piston in the keg post and the piston in the disconnect each open up, which allows the flow of gas into the keg. I tried depressurizing the kegs to make sire that wasn't the issue, and it didn't seem to matter. The only thing that worked was screwing the top of the disconnect down as far as it would go, increasing the spring compression. My disconnects on the regular 5# C)2 tank and dual reg have never had this issue and they use the same threaded disconnects.Cheers,Rich

[positiveContact]

The only thing that worked was screwing the top of the disconnect down as far as it would go, increasing the spring compression.

you can screw the top of this thing down?I have never even tried...

[SchwanzBrewer]

you can screw the top of this thing down?I have never even tried...

Sort of. There is a quick thread in the top and you can screw it down slightly more, but will pop back up if you go too far. I dont think that screwing it down is really a good procedure since there is an oring in under the cap there that can get over compressed. These are the exact disconnects I used:Now, some of the keg posts have this style piston/spring:And others have this style piston/spring:Most of my kegs have the second variety shown. Should I be using a different disconnect? Is there even a different one?-Rich

[positiveContact]

Sort of. There is a quick thread in the top and you can screw it down slightly more, but will pop back up if you go too far. I dont think that screwing it down is really a good procedure since there is an oring in under the cap there that can get over compressed. These are the exact disconnects I used:Now, some of the keg posts have this style piston/spring:And others have this style piston/spring:Most of my kegs have the second variety shown. Should I be using a different disconnect? Is there even a different one?-Rich

I think it depends what the keg is. diff kegs require diff poppets.

[SchwanzBrewer]

I think it depends what the keg is. diff kegs require diff poppets.

Correct, I have the poppets properly matched to the keg posts. What I want to know is whether I there is a different disconnect that works better with the different poppet. The new kegs I bought are pin lock kegs that were converted to ball lock. The posts seem to be dimensionally accurate and exactly the same as the traditional ball lock kegs, the only difference being that they have the second style poppet as shown in my post above.I just want to know if there is any reason to believe that the standard ball lock disconnect that I have been using wouldn't work with the different poppet? OR is there something else going on that I am just unfamiliar with, or too blind to see???

[positiveContact]

Correct, I have the poppets properly matched to the keg posts. What I want to know is whether I there is a different disconnect that works better with the different poppet. The new kegs I bought are pin lock kegs that were converted to ball lock. The posts seem to be dimensionally accurate and exactly the same as the traditional ball lock kegs, the only difference being that they have the second style poppet as shown in my post above.I just want to know if there is any reason to believe that the standard ball lock disconnect that I have been using wouldn't work with the different poppet? OR is there something else going on that I am just unfamiliar with, or too blind to see???

I've only ever seen one kind of gas/liquid ball lock QD.

[RommelMagic]

I've only ever seen one kind of gas/liquid ball lock QD.

+1.And you are sure that you had the disconnect fully seated on the post? I have heard that those CO2 chargers will blow up the disconnect if it is not properly seated on the post or not connected at all. As far as the springs and such, maybe there was a bit of dried gunk on either the poppit or the disconnect that sorta glued one or both in place? As far as choosing a disconnect, I'm with Mashley - I've only seen one kind and I'm not sure about specific manufacturers. You say you can screw down the top of the disconnect - you mean the very top where the depression is that looks like a flathead would fit in it? If the disconnect was coming apart there I'd expect you have a broken or defective one.

[boo boo]

+1.And you are sure that you had the disconnect fully seated on the post? I have heard that those CO2 chargers will blow up the disconnect if it is not properly seated on the post or not connected at all. As far as the springs and such, maybe there was a bit of dried gunk on either the poppit or the disconnect that sorta glued one or both in place? As far as choosing a disconnect, I'm with Mashley - I've only seen one kind and I'm not sure about specific manufacturers. You say you can screw down the top of the disconnect - you mean the very top where the depression is that looks like a flathead would fit in it? If the disconnect was coming apart there I'd expect you have a broken or defective one.

That's what I would suspect. If the QD isn't on properly the high unregulated pressure from one of those dispensers could damage either the QD orthe trigger assy itself. Not something to play around with for sure.The screw on top of the QD should be tight causing the nipple inside to plug the hole, which when placed on the post of the corney will force openthe nipple to allow passage of whatever the post was meant to transfer.I have one of those dispensers, and had to learn about them before using them.

[SchwanzBrewer]

That's what I would suspect. If the QD isn't on properly the high unregulated pressure from one of those dispensers could damage either the QD orthe trigger assy itself. Not something to play around with for sure.The screw on top of the QD should be tight causing the nipple inside to plug the hole, which when placed on the post of the corney will force openthe nipple to allow passage of whatever the post was meant to transfer.I have one of those dispensers, and had to learn about them before using them.

I used them before too without a problem. Maybe I just need to clean and replace the orings on the poppets and make sure that the poppet opens more freely. When I took apart the disconnect I noticed that the spring seemed to be a little weaker than the spring on the poppet, so I was concerned. I eventually got all them working at the tournament, but it took some playing around and I exploded 2 disconnects and one charger. Then another disconnect exploded on the guy running the putting green when he attempted to change the CO2 cartridge. I typed up directions to avoid that, but it caught him in the arm and gave him a cut and a welt. Could easily take out an eye.Short and the long of it is that I wont use those chargers anymore. Im switching to paintball tanks and single regs. I just want to make sure I dont explode anymore QD's. Cheers,Rich

[gnef]

You may be able to find a cheap 5# tank that will fix all your problems, and you won't have to worry about the paintball tanks.Those chargers definitely don't seem to be worth the trouble now.I even had a 2.5# tank that was extremely portable, though a dual gauge regulator and tubing would sometimes make it tip over.

[SchwanzBrewer]

You may be able to find a cheap 5# tank that will fix all your problems, and you won't have to worry about the paintball tanks.Those chargers definitely don't seem to be worth the trouble now.I even had a 2.5# tank that was extremely portable, though a dual gauge regulator and tubing would sometimes make it tip over.

I have a 5 pounder that I use for the fridge. I ended up getting that and using it on one of the set ups. But 5# tank is expensive. Mine was $90 and then 30 every time to fill it up and its heavy. I already have 4 - 20oz paintball tanks so getting the adapter and the single regs would be cheap enough.Cheers,Rich

[gnef]

That is expensive. I bought my 20# tanks for $20 a piece used. I thought that even new a 5# tank would be less than $90, but it also costs me less to refill the 20# tanks than what it costs you to refill your 5# tank, so it could be a regional difference.I didn't know you already had the paintball tanks. If you get a larger tank, you can also refill the paintball tanks yourself if you are confident in your weighing.

[toonces]

could it be that liquid co2 is getting in contact with it? that might cause the plastic to get brittle and shatter.

[bigdaddyale]

I wonder if the plastic peg inside the QD was flipped over

[djinkc]

I wonder if the plastic peg inside the QD was flipped over

Me too. Good thought..........

[bigdaddyale]

Anybody know the part number of the fitting needed to connect an air fitting to this. 1/4 inch male flare to 3/8 inch female pipe thread

[bigdaddyale]

CORRECT

[bigdaddyale]

INCORRECT