Flat keg lid seals
#1
Posted 04 June 2009 - 10:42 PM
#2
Posted 05 June 2009 - 04:38 AM
It's food safe lube but to be safe I soak all lubed parts in starsan immediately before rebuilding the keg. Since my kegs with beer in them are refrigerated at all times I'm not too worried.I'd recommend using keg lube on all of your rubber parts b/c it will keep them from getting damaged from friction or drying out.When I first got my used kegs 4 years ago now, a couple of them had flat seal rings for the lids. I replaced over time with the standard round seals. I was wondering now if the flat seals would seal a little better than the round ones. A few of my kegs even with new round seals I have to use keg lube to get a good seal at serving pressures? Personally I think the lube is a little nasty, worries me if the lube could be a refuge for wild bugs.
#3
Posted 05 June 2009 - 11:08 AM
Meh, I'll lube the lid ring sometimes in order to get it to seal, but I'm not worried about post or tube rings from wearing down so I'll avoid the hassle of lubing them. They're only $2 for a pack of 100, so at 2 cents a pop it's worth the cost to replace them.I'd recommend using keg lube on all of your rubber parts b/c it will keep them from getting damaged from friction or drying out.
Edited by chuck_d, 05 June 2009 - 11:08 AM.
#4
Posted 05 June 2009 - 12:49 PM
#5
Posted 05 June 2009 - 04:49 PM
#6
Posted 05 June 2009 - 04:57 PM
#7
Posted 05 June 2009 - 05:06 PM
#8
Posted 05 June 2009 - 05:16 PM
If it still has problems sealing with a different lid, a new o-ring, and using keg lube, then it pretty much has to be a problem with the lip around the opening. If you can't feel any spurs or gouges on the inside of that lip, then it must have been somehow been bent out of shape. In that case, I don't see that you have any choice but to try a little body work on it with a hammer. Maybe go to work on the outside of it while the lid is in place to provide a form?I still have one or two that leak with lube and 30 psi CO2. I've tried different lids and new o-rings with the kegs, to no avail. I may have to whack them with a mallet to get them back in shape.
#9
Posted 05 June 2009 - 05:45 PM
Now that sounds like a reason to lube my post, wait what? I do have a few that are kind of a pain to get the QDs on/off. I never really thought to lube it since I only thought of that for sealing, instead I just dealt with it.I started lubing the poppets and the post rings, and now it's much, much easier to get the disconnect on and off. Also, it has eliminated the the problem I have had a couple of times with the poppet sticking open and spilling beer, when I removed a beer-side disconnect. Keg lube is my friend.
Edited by chuck_d, 05 June 2009 - 05:46 PM.
#10
Posted 05 June 2009 - 05:54 PM
Sounds like those are good candidates for corny fermenters.If it still has problems sealing with a different lid, a new o-ring, and using keg lube, then it pretty much has to be a problem with the lip around the opening. If you can't feel any spurs or gouges on the inside of that lip, then it must have been somehow been bent out of shape. In that case, I don't see that you have any choice but to try a little body work on it with a hammer. Maybe go to work on the outside of it while the lid is in place to provide a form?
#11
Posted 05 June 2009 - 06:05 PM
#12
Posted 05 June 2009 - 09:07 PM
With were flat about 3/8" wide , 1/4 thick. slightly oval.Thanks for the heads up about Williams Brewing having lager seals.https://www.williams...RING_P58C78.cfmI think the flat ones may have been round at some point.Williams Brewing sells some chunkier o rings that are made of softer stuff. They'll seal at no pressure on a good keg.
#13
Posted 05 June 2009 - 09:36 PM
Anyone know if McMaster has something similar?With were flat about 3/8" wide , 1/4 thick. slightly oval.Thanks for the heads up about Williams Brewing having lager seals.https://www.williams...RING_P58C78.cfm
#14
Posted 06 June 2009 - 05:04 AM
They almost certainly do. Williams doesn't list the diameter, but it's probably 9/32 or 5/16. I bought some of the standard ones from McMaster a little while back, I'll check the durometer of the standard ones and see if there's something a little softer.Anyone know if McMaster has something similar?
#15
Posted 06 June 2009 - 05:11 AM
Where do you get them at this price?Meh, I'll lube the lid ring sometimes in order to get it to seal, but I'm not worried about post or tube rings from wearing down so I'll avoid the hassle of lubing them. They're only $2 for a pack of 100, so at 2 cents a pop it's worth the cost to replace them.
#16
Posted 06 June 2009 - 06:55 AM
McMaster-Carr. The part numbers are floating around somewhere.Where do you get them at this price?
#17
Posted 06 June 2009 - 08:09 AM
I have a couple like that. When I keg I hit them with 40psi of CO2. They have no choice but to seat then.I have a few kegs where it's a real biznitch to get the lid ring seated, regardless of lube. I'd love a better solution.
#18
Posted 06 June 2009 - 08:21 AM
I should've said mine will seat with enough pressure, but when I back it off they start leaking again.I have a couple like that. When I keg I hit them with 40psi of CO2. They have no choice but to seat then.
#19
Posted 06 June 2009 - 08:27 AM
#20
Posted 06 June 2009 - 10:30 AM
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