Getting the right mash temp
#1
Posted 23 January 2011 - 07:53 PM
#2
Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:08 PM
#3
Posted 23 January 2011 - 08:28 PM
#4
Posted 23 January 2011 - 09:12 PM
I'll take a look at that thermapen, thanks!DarinHigher mash temp can result in sweeter beer that has a bit more mouthfeel. A lower mash temp can produce a drier, thinner beer. I heat my water in the kitchen and get it to a certain temp (in the 160-165° range) and I add it to my MT with the grains and stir. I use a Thermapen to check the mash temp and if I am a little high, I add a few ice cubes, stir and check it again. I usually try to miss high because I have ice cubes available but usually not boiling water (which is how you would want to adjust up if you had no other option). I have heard that you have about 10 minutes before enzymatic activity really kicks in so that's your adjustment period. The biggest issue with nailing mash temp may be the instrument you use to measure it. I have mentioned my frustration with El Cheapo thermometers and how I can't get them to agree. Also, some of this comes down to what equipment you have at your disposal and how you normally heat & maintain your mash. Good luck.
#5
Posted 23 January 2011 - 09:13 PM
Thanks, brother!DarinI think the best way to hit your temps is just to know your system. I know on mine I have to heat the mash water about 20 degrees over the mash temp I want. And, use the same water to grist ratio.Also, use your equipment consistently. If you preheat your mash tun, then always preheat. And as Ken said, have a really good thermometer. I use a glass thermo because the needle kinds are always way off for me, even after being calibrated. Cheers!
#6
Posted 23 January 2011 - 09:18 PM
I feel mildly sheepish buying that thermometer because it's $100. Almost all of my brewing stuff is on the cheap and many, many years old. But it occurred to me that if you need to dial in 150° and you have 4 dial/glass lab/digital thermos that are all off by 8°, you're going to have one hell of a time getting the right mash temp. I realize that is not what you asked... you're trying to get info on making adjustments once the mash temp is determined. If you can adjust the temp of your mash because you use a direct-fired mash setup, you just have to go slow, meet your mash temp and maintain it. If you mash in a cooler, the best bet is to have a small amount of boiling water on hand or ice cubes so you can make small adjustments. It's easier than you think once you have a better feel for your system, as JB mentioned. Cheers.I'll take a look at that thermapen, thanks!Darin
#7
Posted 23 January 2011 - 09:52 PM
Exactly, I usually hit my temp dead on. Sometimes I come in a degree or two off and I don't worry about it.I think the best way to hit your temps is just to know your system. I know on mine I have to heat the mash water about 20 degrees over the mash temp I want. And, use the same water to grist ratio.Also, use your equipment consistently. If you preheat your mash tun, then always preheat. And as Ken said, have a really good thermometer. I use a glass thermo because the needle kinds are always way off for me, even after being calibrated. Cheers!
#8
Posted 24 January 2011 - 04:36 AM
I'm not sure if I got lucky or what. I have 2 pretty cheap digital thermos and they have been within a degree of each other whenever I've checked. I also have a candy thermo that they generally seem to agree with (granted the candy thermo is hard to read precisely).I feel mildly sheepish buying that thermometer because it's $100. Almost all of my brewing stuff is on the cheap and many, many years old. But it occurred to me that if you need to dial in 150° and you have 4 dial/glass lab/digital thermos that are all off by 8°, you're going to have one hell of a time getting the right mash temp. I realize that is not what you asked... you're trying to get info on making adjustments once the mash temp is determined. If you can adjust the temp of your mash because you use a direct-fired mash setup, you just have to go slow, meet your mash temp and maintain it. If you mash in a cooler, the best bet is to have a small amount of boiling water on hand or ice cubes so you can make small adjustments. It's easier than you think once you have a better feel for your system, as JB mentioned. Cheers.
#9
Posted 24 January 2011 - 05:02 AM
#10
Posted 24 January 2011 - 06:31 AM
This is what I use (can't remember where I found the formula):strike water temp = (0.2/MR)*(MT - GT) + MTwhere,MR = mash ratio (qt of water / lbs of grain)MT = desired mash temperatureGT = grain temperature (usually room temperature b/c that's where I keep the grain before milling)The 0.2 can be altered to tweak to your setup. I generally put my strike water into the mash tun at a higher than calculated strike water temperature and then let it cool down until it hits the strike water temp. Then I add in the grain. Doing it this way removes the variable of the mash tun (a cooler) being at a different temperature.I'm sure other people have their own methods but this is what I use.There are some calculators out there that can get you in the ballpark. I kept notes for a while on strike water temp and water/grist. It didn't take long to dial it in. Keep some ice around too. It's easier to drop a high temperature than trying to heat up a mash that's too cold.
#11
Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:46 AM
This.Are you brewing on a system relatively new to you? I know that if I want to mash at 152, I heat my strike water to the 165-167 range as I usually lose 13-15 degrees once I add the grain. Trial and error! But a good idea about the ice cubes....I'll have to remember that!I think the best way to hit your temps is just to know your system.
#12
Posted 24 January 2011 - 09:48 AM
#13
Posted 24 January 2011 - 09:58 AM
#14
Posted 24 January 2011 - 11:48 AM
With two weeks before the next game, you gotta give me at LEAST a week to gloat!Deer, your signature is killing me.
#15
Posted 24 January 2011 - 11:51 AM
I figure out the desired temperature of strike water from this equation:T1*m1+T2*m2+T3*m3=T*(m1+m2+m3)or(T of mashtun)*(thermal mass of mashtun) + (T of grain)*(thermal mass of grain) + (T of water)*(thermal mass of water) = (final T)*(thermal mass of mashtun+grain+water)A pound of grain has the thermal mass of 0.2 quarts of water, and my mash tun has the thermal mass of 1.6 quarts of water. I assume that your keggle will have a different thermal mass from my Gott cooler, but you can figure out the thermal mass from plugging in what final temperature you got from adding known grain and water.Once you get the temperature of strike water calculated, you should never be 10 degrees off, and you will only have to turn on your burner to maintain a constant temperature.I'm using a keggle for my mashtun and a cajun cooker for the heat source. I've heard that some people turn off the heat when they are 10 degrees shy of the mash temp and that the temp slowly gets to the desired temp. I tried that and the temp was just short of the desired temp...so..... I added more heat and very quickly the temp shot over what I wanted for the mash temp.
#16
Posted 24 January 2011 - 01:31 PM
How close do you usually get? I've found I'm usually about +/- 1F of where I wanted to be which usually just means I leave it alone.I figure out the desired temperature of strike water from this equation:T1*m1+T2*m2+T3*m3=T*(m1+m2+m3)or(T of mashtun)*(thermal mass of mashtun) + (T of grain)*(thermal mass of grain) + (T of water)*(thermal mass of water) = (final T)*(thermal mass of mashtun+grain+water)A pound of grain has the thermal mass of 0.2 quarts of water, and my mash tun has the thermal mass of 1.6 quarts of water. I assume that your keggle will have a different thermal mass from my Gott cooler, but you can figure out the thermal mass from plugging in what final temperature you got from adding known grain and water.Once you get the temperature of strike water calculated, you should never be 10 degrees off, and you will only have to turn on your burner to maintain a constant temperature.
#17
Posted 24 January 2011 - 02:16 PM
That's typical for me as well. It's so reliable that when I find a spot that has the wrong temperature, I assume that it's a hot or cold spot and just stir more.How close do you usually get? I've found I'm usually about +/- 1F of where I wanted to be which usually just means I leave it alone.
#18
Posted 24 January 2011 - 02:20 PM
*high five*That's typical for me as well. It's so reliable that when I find a spot that has the wrong temperature, I assume that it's a hot or cold spot and just stir more.
#19
Posted 24 January 2011 - 02:53 PM
#20
Posted 24 January 2011 - 10:24 PM
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