Simple Cyser Advice
#1
Posted 03 November 2010 - 04:51 AM
#2
Posted 03 November 2010 - 05:45 AM
I haven't used PacMan myself so I don't know just how far it would take a cyser but my general experience with ale yeasts is they tend to slow down around 1.010 so it will probably get you in the ballpark FG you are aiming for. A wine yeast would get you to 1.000 and possibly a little lower.I have some old Honey I want to use up. Thought I would make a sparkling Cyser with it.Never done one before, so would appreciate any advice.Thoughts are:5 gallons cider (~1.050) + 5 lbs of honey = 5 gallons with SG ~1.075.Fermenting with ale yeast should get it down to 1.000, bottle and prime. Thinking of using PacMan yeast since it is clean fermenting and high alcohol tolerance (and I've got plenty of it).Is an ale yeast the best option. A wine yeast will take the FG down lower and make it dryer, and possibly strip more flavor from it. If a wine yeast would be better, any recommendations. I'm about to place an order for a lot of supplies, so can add any yeast.
Once it has fermented out then 2-3 months bulk aging sounds good. You may want to consider adding a clarifier if you want it crystal clear in that time frame. If it were me, particularly if you do add a clarifier, I'd also add some additional yeast like US05 at bottling to make sure you've got some fresh viable yeast to carbonate with.At 10% ABV you are probably looking at around 6 months before it starts to get good.Spicing is personal preference and I tend to add a little something to my cysers. I like to add raisins to cysers to give them a little more body and mouthfeel. Dates also make a very nice contribution without being overpowering. Adding Cinnamon and nutmeg is common but not really my favorite again it's all about what you like.Cysers are great beverages, something I look forward to making and drinking every year!How long should I keep in bulk/when could it be bottled. I would prefer not to leave it conditioning in bulk for too long so that there is still sufficient yeast in suspension to carbonate the bottles. I was thinking of 2 to 3 months.This is going to be about 10% abv. How long will I need to wait until it is drinkable. How long should I wait for it to be at it's best? .......... I'll probably sample it 'regularly' in the interests of education, but I have plenty of beer and cider around that it will not be a problem keeping it for a good while.I wasn't planning on adding anything else to it; no spices, no fruit, etc. Is this a mistake, will it be too bland? I have some WLP550 (Belgium yeast) I could use to add some phenolic flavor; just didn't seem right.I've never done this before; any advice.
#3
Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:23 AM
It sounded like the OP was concerned about it getting too dry so I'd be very careful with the staggered Nutrient Additions. It's a proven method but it's also how I have ended up with some 16% ABV meads, cysers, and melomels. Pacman is a tough ale yeast that on it's own would probably get below 1.010. I don't have good data on the nutrient and nitrogen needs of ale yeasts so I'm always hesitant to add things that may not be needed. Have you ever seen anything on that subject?Ale yeast will certainly ferment dry in 100% fermentables given correct nutrients are present. With the scenario given, there is no reason why the ale yeast shouldn't get down to around 1.000 or maybe lower. Just use the Staggered Nutrient Addition protocol.I've made a 10% ABV melomel that was ready to drink at about 2 or 3 months. Of course it will get better over time, but it is hard to regulate how much we drink when I have it on tap.
#4
Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:54 AM
#5
Posted 03 November 2010 - 10:00 AM
#6
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:32 AM
#7
Posted 15 November 2010 - 08:03 AM
#8
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:57 PM
#9
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:11 PM
not really a big concern for meDon't you worry about contamination with using a food processor?
take a look at hightest's FAQ on staggered nutrient additions. They aren't needed, but they make the process go smoother in my opinion.It's gotten off to a quick start. Some activity at 12 hours, and really going now at almost 24 hours.Question: Do I need to feed nutrient to the yeast. Not sure how much there is in cider, honey, and raisins.If so, what should I use, how much, and when? The only nutrient I have ever used was tossing the occasional old yeast pack in boiling wort. Not sure it really did anything as there is plenty of nutrients in beer. Would old yeast do for this; I have plenty I could mix with a little water and heat in a microwave. For anything else I would have to go and get from my LHBS.
#10
Posted 16 November 2010 - 09:24 AM
#11
Posted 16 November 2010 - 02:23 PM
#12
Posted 17 November 2010 - 05:28 AM
#13
Posted 17 November 2010 - 10:36 AM
#14
Posted 09 December 2010 - 09:30 AM
#15
Posted 09 December 2010 - 09:45 AM
#16
Posted 09 December 2010 - 09:06 PM
#17
Posted 21 December 2010 - 07:41 PM
#18
Posted 21 December 2010 - 09:01 PM
I'd leave the fermenter for at least another monthonce I rinsed the lees off the raisins after transfer and made raisin bread. Tasty.Honey, Cider and Raisins. It's now 37 days (5 weeks) since I started this. Last time I checked (2 weeks ago) it had reached final gravity (or close to it at 1.000). Is it too soon to rack? I am looking to use the fermenter, but can leave it if necessary and find something else.Stupid question, but never done this before. When I finally rack off the lees and from the raisins, I am assuming the raisins will have absorbed a lot of the good cyser. Is there any way of getting that back or is it just best left alone and being tossed? I'm assuming it's just lost volume and there is nothing you can do to get it back.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users