56 replies to this topic

[AspenLeif]

I am getting consistently higher than normal finishing gravities, pretty much across all styles. See if you think of something I'm not. I just kegged up a lager that was in primary for 8 weeks. FG 1.020 from OG 1.068 using WL american lager yeast. All of my beers finish a little sweet (obviously) and even if I could get it down .003-.005...that would be all I'd need to accomplish. I guess I should also preface this by saying that I rarely brew a beer under 1.070 OG...so maybe I really don't have a problem, I just need to use yeasts more tolerant of higher alcohol contents. Though when I started and brewed kits, I could never get the OG reading on the box...always off by .003-.005...so that leads me to believe that there could be something I can tweak. Checked the hydromoeter for 1.000 reading with water.I have used both liquid and dry yeasts, liquid yeasts get a 1/2 gallon starter, starter OG 1.040-sihI bought an oxygenation wand and O2 cylinderWent through palmers chap15 water profiling, put calcium carbonate due to lack of ions....vary the amount by style.Shake or aggitate during fermentingHave used yeast nutrient in the pastVerified my termometer is reading correctly, so my mash temps are indeed correct or at least +/-1-2 deg...mash at 149-150 typically. Fermenting temps are always at the lower end of the spectrum for the yeasts... just happends to be my basement temp. 60-62, but not out of character for the strains used.I was trying to fix this a couple years ago...gave up after I got the O2 wand and no improvement. Well, now I want to relook at my process.MB

[Cheatin Bastard]

As a 9 year veteran brewer I still get a brew sometimes with gravities very close to what you described.Even after years of reading the boards and trying all sorts of things It still happens. Its a mystery to me.I have tried old yeast next to new yeast and still close to the same results.I have just had it with WY2112 California Steam. I really like the character but it has let me down too many times.So, what to do? Drink up me hearty! And keep on brewing..........C.B

[davelew]

If you know that your system gets you .003 to .005 too high in FG, just lower your mash temperature a few points. Lowering the mash temperature is the easiest way to increase fermentability. Don't worry that other people say not to mash below 149, do what works for YOUR system. If a mash temperature of 146 or 147 makes better beer for you, go for that.Also, make sure you're ading the calcium to the mash, not to the strike water. Calcium carbonate doesn't dissolve very quickly in water, it needs a mild acid (like wort) to start dissolving.

I am getting consistently higher than normal finishing gravities, pretty much across all styles. See if you think of something I'm not. I just kegged up a lager that was in primary for 8 weeks. FG 1.020 from OG 1.068 using WL american lager yeast. All of my beers finish a little sweet (obviously) and even if I could get it down .003-.005...that would be all I'd need to accomplish. I guess I should also preface this by saying that I rarely brew a beer under 1.070 OG...so maybe I really don't have a problem, I just need to use yeasts more tolerant of higher alcohol contents. Though when I started and brewed kits, I could never get the OG reading on the box...always off by .003-.005...so that leads me to believe that there could be something I can tweak. Checked the hydromoeter for 1.000 reading with water.I have used both liquid and dry yeasts, liquid yeasts get a 1/2 gallon starter, starter OG 1.040-sihI bought an oxygenation wand and O2 cylinderWent through palmers chap15 water profiling, put calcium carbonate due to lack of ions....vary the amount by style.Shake or aggitate during fermentingHave used yeast nutrient in the pastVerified my termometer is reading correctly, so my mash temps are indeed correct or at least +/-1-2 deg...mash at 149-150 typically. Fermenting temps are always at the lower end of the spectrum for the yeasts... just happends to be my basement temp. 60-62, but not out of character for the strains used.I was trying to fix this a couple years ago...gave up after I got the O2 wand and no improvement. Well, now I want to relook at my process.MB

[AspenLeif]

Also, make sure you're ading the calcium to the mash, not to the strike water. Calcium carbonate doesn't dissolve very quickly in water, it needs a mild acid (like wort) to start dissolving.

Yep, directly added to the tun.I mean I know 0.003-0.005 is not much...but I am trying to be a better brewer here. that 0.003 can dry out the sweetness jjjussssttt a little, but goes a long way to help flavor profile. I really notice this when backsweetning my wines. That's an art in itself.MB

[Deerslyr]

What is your grist to water ratio? In addition to lowering the mash temp a bit, try thinning out the mash a bit.

[MakeMeHoppy]

Fermenting temps are always at the lower end of the spectrum for the yeasts... just happends to be my basement temp. 60-62, but not out of character for the strains used..Do you happen to have your fermenter on the floor? I had problems when I started out and THOUGHT my basement had very stable temps. Turned out I was wrong and it was getting a couple degrees cooler at night and the yeast were droping out. Leaving the fermenter on the floor (usually concrete) acts like a big heat sink and can lower the temps more than just the air temp. Try putting the fermenter on a milk crate or something to see if that helps. If that isn't the answer then as above mash at a lower temp to allow for this.

[AspenLeif]

What is your grist to water ratio? In addition to lowering the mash temp a bit, try thinning out the mash a bit.

I do run a tighter mash 1.15 to 1.35 at most. I do this for mostly for maximizing the sparge water volume running through the grains.MB

[AspenLeif]

Do you happen to have your fermenter on the floor? I had problems when I started out and THOUGHT my basement had very stable temps. Turned out I was wrong and it was getting a couple degrees cooler at night and the yeast were droping out. Leaving the fermenter on the floor (usually concrete) acts like a big heat sink and can lower the temps more than just the air temp. Try putting the fermenter on a milk crate or something to see if that helps.

I've though of this...and I usually set the carboy on the bottom couple stairs...or out of the way on a little 2x4 crib to keep it off the floor.MB

[tag]

And use a bigger starter. A 5 gallon regular strength batch of lager needs a one gallon starter.Check out the MrMalty.com yeast pitching calculator at www.mrmalty.com

[AspenLeif]

And use a bigger starter. A 5 gallon regular strength batch of lager needs a one gallon starter.Check out the MrMalty.com yeast pitching calculator at www.mrmalty.com

I don't think this an issue. I often pitch on top of an old cake...sometimes go 3 generations before dumping it. Not a noticable change in FG.MB

[denny]

Never mind....

Edited by denny, 12 May 2009 - 09:22 AM.

[AspenLeif]

Never mind....

What'cha got? I am at a loss of where to look next.MB

[stellarbrew]

Maybe try raising the temperature of your fermenter 5 or 10 degrees when fermentation starts to wind down. This sometimes will squeeze out a few extra points of attenuation for me. When the temperature is raised near the end of fermentation, there seems to be no adverse flavor impact.

[AspenLeif]

Maybe try raising the temperature of your fermenter 5 or 10 degrees when fermentation starts to wind down. This sometimes will squeeze out a few extra points of attenuation for me. When the temperature is raised near the end of fermentation, there seems to be no adverse flavor impact.

Worth a shot, but I hate luggin beer up and down the stairs. MB

[HVB]

Worth a shot, but I hate luggin beer up and down the stairs. MB

What about using a heating pad to raise the temperature? That is what I do when my cellar is to cold.

[drewseslu]

What is your chilling method?

[AspenLeif]

What is your chilling method?

Immersion chiller. I have pretty cold groundwater, so it cools quickly. MB

[drewseslu]

Hmm...this could be it...how long is the chiller in the wort before the end of the boil?

[AspenLeif]

Hmm...this could be it...how long is the chiller in the wort before the end of the boil?

I put it in about 5-10min before I kill the flame.MB

[BrewerGeorge]

Hmm...this could be it...how long is the chiller in the wort before the end of the boil?

You thinking of the copper thing?