BYO
#1
Posted 17 August 2010 - 05:41 PM
#2
Posted 17 August 2010 - 06:04 PM
#3
Posted 17 August 2010 - 07:10 PM
Yeah, I might even wear shoes next time......... I keep forgeting you're all electric too.....I think he has a relatively solid plan, it's just simpler to go 240v and secure the elements to the vessels. I don't want to see someone slop a heatstick together and get fried. I've never really looked but wonder if McMaster has the threaded parts to really make the thing permanently waterproof. That and I don't like the ungrounded kettle...........But, he was building these when I restarted the brewery and it inspired me to go electric. Probably would have blown up my house with NG if it hadn't been for him. Anyway nice to see he's still brewing.He sure is and I'm electric like you and that stick makes me a tad nervous. Then again, brewing with 240 doesn't really sound all that bright either.
#4
Posted 18 August 2010 - 07:32 AM
#5
Posted 18 August 2010 - 03:24 PM
Be careful or soon you'll be powering that thing with 240VAC and 5500W elements.Those heat sticks make ne nervous. The plumbing pvc drain fittings are notorious for leaking under normal conditions. I wouldn't want to see what 180F water does to them.I built an electric HLT from a cut keg and 120v 1650 watt water heater element. It takes about 4 hours for 10 gallons of 70F water to go to 170F. No big deal, I plan on putting it on a timer for mashing in. It gets plugged into an outlet in the garage with gfi so I feel its safe. I wanted to cut down my propane use without getting super high tech or expensive. There is no temp control. Just plug it in and let it go.
#6
Posted 18 August 2010 - 04:41 PM
#7
Posted 18 August 2010 - 04:55 PM
You'll probably have to do a lot of searching the forum and probably others because most of the people that have electric rigs built them before the move over here. There was and may be still a ton of info on the Greenboard. When you have questions just feel free to ask.I have made some changes but not a whole lot.My rig.Are there any straightforward instructions around for building an electric setup for boiling? I'm not afraid of building and I have a healthy respect for electricity. Thanks in advance!
#8
Posted 18 August 2010 - 07:58 PM
No, there aren't any straightforward instructions.The basic concept is pretty simple: Use low density elements (less than 25W/square inch is ideal) to avoid scorching the wort. Ground any exposed metal. Don't forget to include an on/off switch.Are there any straightforward instructions around for building an electric setup for boiling?
#11
Posted 19 August 2010 - 11:12 AM
I think the only thing straight forward is the basic electrical knowledge you need to tackle the project. After that, everyone's situation, house setup, goals and objectives are so different that it is hard to make a straightforward set of instructions for most situations. I'm not saying it couldn't be done though.One thing that has amazed me is how many different ways there are to reach the goal of having an electric setup. People come up with some great ideas. And a few scary ones.Are there any straightforward instructions around for building an electric setup for boiling? I'm not afraid of building and I have a healthy respect for electricity. Thanks in advance!
#12
Posted 19 August 2010 - 11:50 AM
#13
Posted 19 August 2010 - 08:19 PM
#14
Posted 20 August 2010 - 07:01 AM
George, I'd love to read it. If you have it as a PDF file and just want to shoot it to me that works too. Thanks.I have a pretty good write-up detailing my setup, but it's no longer posted to the Web. Let me know if you're interested and I can post some stuff.
#15
Posted 20 August 2010 - 01:46 PM
+1George, I'd love to read it. If you have it as a PDF file and just want to shoot it to me that works too. Thanks.
#16
Posted 20 August 2010 - 02:45 PM
I seen him the other day at work. Sadly, he hasn't brewed in a while.My original inspiration for the electric boiler came from C.D. Pritchard, although there have been a lot of improvements since then like using the locknut from McMaster (4464K586) instead of the half coupler.
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