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Perlick faucets


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#21 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 11:18 AM

If you are starting from scratch, I would highly recommend going all stainless for the shanks and nipples. I started with chrome plated brass, and just recently after having them for a few years, I checked the shanks on my kegerator, and they were pretty much all corroded. I then decided to upgrade the shanks and nipples to be all stainless, and expect them to last a very long time.If you can afford to do it now, I would get stainless everything. I couldn't when I started, and had to end up buying twice. It wasn't too bad though, since I use the old shanks for my jockey boxes.

I noticed that the shank on the kegerator was corroding. I think it was a chromed shank. Are they still useful, or is it scrap? I was thinking about geting that all in one deal that was posted. The other faucet is a perlick, but I haven't inspected the shank yet. I think I might have to get some parts for that one too.Cheers,Rich

#22 lowendfrequency

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 02:16 PM

Have you guys had a chance to check out the new "Perl" faucets? They have a simpler design with less moving parts. Originally, they were priced cheaper but they seem to be going up in cost similar to the original Perlick. On the subject of the forward seal faucet, I LOVE them! It's not just the "sticky faucet" cure that gets my vote either. They straight up pour better (more better?) with a more even flow and less foam. The big thing for me though is the feel. The action on these babies is smoother and so much more substantial than a regular faucet. Sometimes I'll pour a beer when I don't even want one, just so I can operate the Perlick. lol

#23 VolFan

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 03:43 PM

When I got my Ventmatics I bought a "package deal". SS shanks, fittings, hose and with the turbulence reducer. I forget what he called it now. I don't know if there is someone doing this as I got it directly from Brad who at the time owned Ventmatics. I came out a lot cheaper doing it all at once.Regarding the turbulence reducer it was discovered you find this contraption in dual cartridge setups. Below is a link and if you click on the picture pay attention to the white spiraled thing beside it. I have about a 3-4" section of these in all my lines.My linkTo this day I hate that Brad lost the Ventmatic business, the few times I spoke with him on the phone he knew a lot about beer pouring. I believe I still have all his original documentation on the subject.

Edited by VolFan, 17 August 2010 - 03:43 PM.


#24 lowendfrequency

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 03:59 PM

Regarding the turbulence reducer it was discovered you find this contraption in dual cartridge setups. Below is a link and if you click on the picture pay attention to the white spiraled thing beside it. I have about a 3-4" section of these in all my lines.

Isn't that a turbulence creator? Those are intended to properly mix things like 2-part epoxies before they applied by creating interference in the line. I'm not a physics genius or anything, but I would think that the best way to reduce turbulence would be to have an unrestricted flow. Not saying your setup is wrong or anything, just thinking out loud.

#25 VolFan

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 04:13 PM

Isn't that a turbulence creator? Those are intended to properly mix things like 2-part epoxies before they applied by creating interference in the line. I'm not a physics genius or anything, but I would think that the best way to reduce turbulence would be to have an unrestricted flow. Not saying your setup is wrong or anything, just thinking out loud.

Man I wish I could remember what he called those things. Hey, it may even be in the Word document I posted. It is basically a series of right hand turns and it simulates a longer length of hose. I know I can carb beers really high, like a Belgium, and never have to increase my hose length and still get the same pour.How much of it is faucet and the other thing, I don't know, I never took the line apart to do a side by side. I bought it all as a package deal and was sold on the idea. By now someone may have proved it wrong and it not really do anything. I bought these over 5 years ago and they just work, so I have never done anything to them other than clean the faucets.Edit: They are called Flo-Gates.

Edited by VolFan, 17 August 2010 - 04:15 PM.


#26 gnef

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 07:18 PM

I noticed that the shank on the kegerator was corroding. I think it was a chromed shank. Are they still useful, or is it scrap? I was thinking about geting that all in one deal that was posted. The other faucet is a perlick, but I haven't inspected the shank yet. I think I might have to get some parts for that one too.Cheers,Rich

Definitely keep the shank, you don't know when you will want to do another quick setup for serving, or build a jockey box, etc. I now have 26 shanks, only 6 of which are stainless (the six on my main kegerator), all the others are on my jockey boxes. I reused some from when I upgraded my jockey box, and others found for really good deals. I try not to throw anything away, and keep it around for when I can use it in the future.Although, if you are really dead set on getting rid of your old shanks, I might be convinced to take them off your hands...

#27 MolBasser

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 07:56 PM

To the OP,Yes.MolBasser

#28 chuck_d

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 08:08 PM

Isn't that a turbulence creator? Those are intended to properly mix things like 2-part epoxies before they applied by creating interference in the line. I'm not a physics genius or anything, but I would think that the best way to reduce turbulence would be to have an unrestricted flow. Not saying your setup is wrong or anything, just thinking out loud.

Yeah, it increases resistance to flow. You don't need to drop the coin for Flo-Gates if you can even still find them. I just use some epoxy mixer I picked up on McMaster, mad cheap. It solves the problem of long coils of beer line by presenting a resistance to the flow, friction, allowing you to push with higher pressures with shorter beer lines. I built a "cobra tap" with a short line by jamming some of this stuff into the tubing. So like VolFan said, you can serve highly carbonated beer, and not bother with 20-30' of beer line.

#29 lowendfrequency

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Posted 17 August 2010 - 10:43 PM

Ahh, I see. :smilielol: I thought we were trying to reduce resistance, hence my questioning. Now that I see what we're talking about, the flo-gate makes perfect sense.


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