28 replies to this topic

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

I was thinking of bottling my rare vos clone this weekend. It had 3 weeks in the primary, a short crash cooling, then racked onto gel in secondary and kept cold for the past 2 weeks (so about 5 weeks old right now). Will there still be enough viable yeast for carbing in the bottle?

[davelew]

Yes.I have bottle carbed beers that were 6 months old.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Yes.I have bottle carbed beers that were 6 months old.

roger that.

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

Probably, but I wouldn't trust it. What's the abv and how many volumes are you shooting for? I'd add 1/4 pack of us-05 to be safe.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Probably, but I wouldn't trust it. What's the abv and how many volumes are you shooting for? I'd add 1/4 pack of us-05 to be safe.

ABV is about 6.8%. Looking to carb to something like 3 volumes I think.

[Deerslyr]

I'm with Dave. You should be fine.

[Big Nake]

You'll be fine. If the ABV was really high and/or the beer was sitting for a really long time, you may have an issue. There will be plenty of healthy yeast in this case. Cheers Zym!

[3rd party JKor]

Well, I haven't primed a beer in a decade, so take my advice with a grain of salt. With all the posts I see on message boards about people have problems with a beer not carbing up, if I was in your situation, I'd use the cheap insurance policy of adding a 1/4 packet of dry yeast (as CWG suggested). There's only upside to adding more yeast. What is your solution if it doesn't carb? Pouring out all the beers, THEN adding more yeast and rebottling? That sounds WAY suckier than just adding a little extra yeast up front. The fact the you have already gelled it doesn't help either. I don't know how much yeast gel leaves behind, but many of my gelled beers are absolutely crystal clear, I can't imagine that there is much yeast in them.

Edited by JKoravos, 05 August 2010 - 10:18 AM.

[Big Nake]

I have posted this example before, but here goes: I had a lager sitting in a secondary at 32° for three months and I had used a gel solution on it when I sent it to secondary. I took it out of the fridge, racked it into a bottling bucket with priming solution and the beer carbed up just fine. I agree with JK that using some additional yeast could be a good insurance policy... it's just that I have never needed to do it. This particular beer looked crystal clear but I remember reading something that suggested that beer that "appears" to be very clear still has plenty of yeast in it. Cheers.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Well, I haven't primed a beer in a decade, so take my advice with a grain of salt. With all the posts I see on message boards about people have problems with a beer not carbing up, if I was in your situation, I'd use the cheap insurance policy of adding a 1/4 packet of dry yeast (as CWG suggested). There's only upside to adding more yeast. What is your solution if it doesn't carb? Pouring out all the beers, THEN adding more yeast and rebottling? That sounds WAY suckier than just adding a little extra yeast up front. The fact the you have already gelled it doesn't help either. I don't know how much yeast gel leaves behind, but many of my gelled beers are absolutely crystal clear, I can't imagine that there is much yeast in them.

you guys love feeding on my paranoia! I'm considering just kegging this thing now!ETA: I do have a pack of S-04 I could throw in if needed.ETA: if you add dry yeast do you just sprinkle it in as the beer is racked to the bottling bucket or something? what's the best practice?

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

I have posted this example before, but here goes: I had a lager sitting in a secondary at 32° for three months and I had used a gel solution on it when I sent it to secondary. I took it out of the fridge, racked it into a bottling bucket with priming solution and the beer carbed up just fine. I agree with JK that using some additional yeast could be a good insurance policy... it's just that I have never needed to do it. This particular beer looked crystal clear but I remember reading something that suggested that beer that "appears" to be very clear still has plenty of yeast in it. Cheers.

Lager yeast are still doing their business at 32F. Trying to re-rouse belgian ale yeast is a different story. I don't have BLAM infront of me, but I believe most belgian breweries reyeast their beer at bottling and referment warm in the bottle.

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

you guys love feeding on my paranoia! I'm considering just kegging this thing now!ETA: I do have a pack of S-04 I could throw in if needed.ETA: if you add dry yeast do you just sprinkle it in as the beer is racked to the bottling bucket or something? what's the best practice?

IMO Belgians are better from the bottle than on draft. Its difficult to get the carbonation right in the keg and not pour a glass of foam. You want a clean, alcohol tollerant yeast that flocs well. Rehydrate it and put in the bottling bucket. When you rack into the bucket, it should mix up well.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

IMO Belgians are better from the bottle than on draft. Its difficult to get the carbonation right in the keg and not pour a glass of foam. You want a clean, alcohol tollerant yeast that flocs well. Rehydrate it and put in the bottling bucket. When you rack into the bucket, it should mix up well.

would S-04 do the job? that's all I've got for dry yeast. since I'll be opening it up I figure I may as well dump the whole thing in. any problem with that?

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

would S-04 do the job? that's all I've got for dry yeast. since I'll be opening it up I figure I may as well dump the whole thing in. any problem with that?

A whole pack is just more to settle out. 1/4 pack should be plenty. I'm not sure of the flocking of that yeast, but if you plan on aging it, should be fine. Brew a beer, toss the other 3/4 pack in it.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

A whole pack is just more to settle out. 1/4 pack should be plenty. I'm not sure of the flocking of that yeast, but if you plan on aging it, should be fine. Brew a beer, toss the other 3/4 pack in it.

brewing more beer is unlikely to happen near term - how about if I was not careful on purpose when transfering from secondary? I can see yeast settled in the bottom.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

If I open up my packet of S-04 and then vacuum seal it back up how long will it be good for? It's probably about a year old already but it's been kept in the fridge the entire time.

[beerturtle]

If I open up my packet of S-04 and then vacuum seal it back up how long will it be good for? It's probably about a year old already but it's been kept in the fridge the entire time.

I'd say to use the rest ASAP. I reckon it'll be good for a couple of weeks anyway, but I'm the kind of guy that lets yeast sit around for a while. Haven't had an old vial screw me yet, but I always make sure I make a starter well ahead of time just in case...

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

I'd say to use the rest ASAP. I reckon it'll be good for a couple of weeks anyway, but I'm the kind of guy that lets yeast sit around for a while. Haven't had an old vial screw me yet, but I always make sure I make a starter well ahead of time just in case...

well - being dry yeast I have to think it's a different deal. I have bread yeast that is just in a ziplock bag that's been fine that way for a year (I make bread every month or so).

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

I still have some yeast saved from when I brewed this beer 5 weeks ago. Could I pitch a very small slurry of this yeast and would that be enough to do the job?

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

I'd use the dry yeast. Wrap the pack in foil then in a ziplock. Should be fine. Or toss out the rest. Its a year old and s-04 can be had for less that $2 a pack