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#1 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:51 PM

Is aluminum really worth it over steel? I know the steel tanks are very heavy and will eventually rust but if I never really plan on moving this thing does it matter?

#2 gnef

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:53 PM

If you don't plan on moving it, they are even, in my mind. I have no worries about steel rusting enough to be of concern. If you notice some rust, you can just sand off the surface rust, and repaint. I have a steel tank from the 40's still in good condition. I buy whatever I find for a good deal, so I have a mix of steel and aluminum.

#3 BlKtRe

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 03:58 PM

I swap my tanks so id never spend the extra money for AL.

#4 MyaCullen

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 05:50 PM

I swap my tanks so id never spend the extra money for AL.

+1pretty is overratedswap tanks are where it's at

#5 djinkc

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 06:07 PM

If you don't plan on moving it, they are even, in my mind. I have no worries about steel rusting enough to be of concern. If you notice some rust, you can just sand off the surface rust, and repaint. I have a steel tank from the 40's still in good condition. I buy whatever I find for a good deal, so I have a mix of steel and aluminum.

Got a 10# from the 40's too. Just had it hydrotested and refilled. It is an ugly sucker

#6 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 03:17 AM

How much of a guarantee do you have that your CO2 won't have a small amount of water vapour in it?

Does this have something to do with Al versus steel?

#7 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 04:38 AM

What do you guys think is a reasonable price for a 15 or a 20 pound tank?

#8 gnef

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 06:53 AM

are you buying a swap tank at airgas or some company like that?

#9 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:15 AM

are you buying a swap tank at airgas or some company like that?

in general. it's pretty ridiculous that used tanks aren't much less than brand new ones on e-bay :nono:

#10 gnef

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:27 AM

It is the shipping that is killer when buying tanks off ebay.Here at a place called beverage control, I think I remember seeing a 10# steel tank for around 60 dollars, but it may have been a sale or something the time I went. I don't recall seeing any 20# tanks for sale, though I assume they had them available. I don't think it would be double the cost, so maybe right around 100 from them. The prices will vary widely though. I discovered this when looking for swaps in Austin, as well as atlanta. In austin, for a 20# tank, some places would charge over 20 per swap, and the cheapest place I found was something like 12. (they only charged something like 15 to swap a 50# tank too, so it was a good deal). In atlanta, some places charge over 30 dollars to swap a 20# tank. At beverage control, which is the cheapest I've found, fills the 20# tanks for 20 dollars, and a 50# tank for 30 dollars.I say this to encourage you to call around to the different welding supply and gas supply stores in your vicinity, this way you can find the best deal for you. When you call, ask not just for the cost of the tank, but also the cost of the fill/swap, and whether they fill on the spot or swap. I also always ask how much they charge for a hydrotest.

#11 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:34 AM

It is the shipping that is killer when buying tanks off ebay.Here at a place called beverage control, I think I remember seeing a 10# steel tank for around 60 dollars, but it may have been a sale or something the time I went. I don't recall seeing any 20# tanks for sale, though I assume they had them available. I don't think it would be double the cost, so maybe right around 100 from them. The prices will vary widely though. I discovered this when looking for swaps in Austin, as well as atlanta. In austin, for a 20# tank, some places would charge over 20 per swap, and the cheapest place I found was something like 12. (they only charged something like 15 to swap a 50# tank too, so it was a good deal). In atlanta, some places charge over 30 dollars to swap a 20# tank. At beverage control, which is the cheapest I've found, fills the 20# tanks for 20 dollars, and a 50# tank for 30 dollars.I say this to encourage you to call around to the different welding supply and gas supply stores in your vicinity, this way you can find the best deal for you. When you call, ask not just for the cost of the tank, but also the cost of the fill/swap, and whether they fill on the spot or swap. I also always ask how much they charge for a hydrotest.

I already have a good place for the fills. They fill my 5# on the spot for $10. I think they said they'd do a 55# for $15 so I feel safe I won't be paying more than $15 per fill. They don't however sells tanks smaller than 55#.

#12 gnef

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 07:47 AM

That is a good price for filling your tanks!Have you called around asking for prices of tanks yet?

#13 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 08:59 AM

That is a good price for filling your tanks!Have you called around asking for prices of tanks yet?

All I've really got is airgas and they aren't open today. Maybe I'll try on Monday. The beverage factory sells new aluminum 20# tanks for $100 + shipping so not too bad.

#14 Dale Hair

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 09:49 AM

Would it rust with CO2 in it, would it not require O2 to oxidize?

#15 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 July 2010 - 09:59 AM

Would it rust with CO2 in it, would it not require O2 to oxidize?

I would think not. I'm now just thinking of buying a new tank so I stop obsessing about it.

#16 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 06:34 AM

so I'm really considering just buying a new 20lb aluminum tank for about $130 (shipping included). If used is going to be close to $100 why not just buy new and then take all the risk out of it?ETA: I would assume that a new tank is going to have a new hyrdotest stamp on it. Has anyone bought from the beverage factory before and can confirm this?

#17 gnef

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 06:39 AM

Haha. Sounds good. Since the place you go to will fill your tank on the spot, you will be able to keep your shiny new tank. The only downside (and it is a minor one) is that when the tank goes out of test in roughly 5 years, you will have to pay to get it hydrotested (only about 20 dollars usually).It is good that you also have your 5# tank that you can keep as a backup. It inevitably happens that when you need the gas the most (for a party or random people over), the gas seems to go empty. I always try to have multiple backups on hand, just in case.

#18 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 07:28 AM

Haha. Sounds good. Since the place you go to will fill your tank on the spot, you will be able to keep your shiny new tank. The only downside (and it is a minor one) is that when the tank goes out of test in roughly 5 years, you will have to pay to get it hydrotested (only about 20 dollars usually).It is good that you also have your 5# tank that you can keep as a backup. It inevitably happens that when you need the gas the most (for a party or random people over), the gas seems to go empty. I always try to have multiple backups on hand, just in case.

The 5# tank will remain the main serving tank simply b/c it fits in my upstairs kegerator. The 20# tank will be for carbing, pushing liquid around, purging kegs, and for emergency back up if my 5# tank runs out during a party or something.It's a pretty safe bet that this 20# tank won't need a test right away right?

#19 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 02:56 PM

eh screw it - just ordered the new 20# tank from beverage factory. hopefully i don't have to get it tested since it's new...

#20 gnef

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Posted 11 July 2010 - 03:33 PM

You definitely shouldn't have to test a new tank. If beverage factory sends you a tank that is older than 5 years, I would complain and have them pay money back to hydrotest the tank. I would say that the test date should most likely be within a year, and hopefully less. It does depend on their turnover rate, and how many tanks they buy at a time though.I do find it interesting that your 20# tank is your backup tank. If you get a paintball refill station, you can refill the 5# tank from it if you are careful (it can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing).


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