brew pot to primary transfers
#1
Posted 10 June 2010 - 12:28 PM
#2
Posted 10 June 2010 - 12:35 PM
#3
Posted 10 June 2010 - 12:47 PM
#4
Posted 10 June 2010 - 01:03 PM
My belief: if it settles out in the brewpot, it will settle out in the fermenter.I have a spigot on my brew kettle, and I drain the beer through the spigot.how do you avoid draining break material and hops into your primary?
#5
Posted 10 June 2010 - 01:09 PM
Right but it will still be in the fermenter. A little break material is a good yeast nutrient but too much will cause early staling of the beer. Probably not such a big deal for ales but it can be for lagers.My belief: if it settles out in the brewpot, it will settle out in the fermenter.
This is the best option I think. Use a false bottom or bazooka if you use whole hops or whirlpool if you use pellets to keep the break out of the fermenter.I have a spigot on my brew kettle, and I drain the beer through the spigot.
#6
Posted 10 June 2010 - 02:28 PM
For a lager, does the junk have make it to the secondary vessel, or is the damage already done by then?Right but it will still be in the fermenter. A little break material is a good yeast nutrient but too much will cause early staling of the beer. Probably not such a big deal for ales but it can be for lagers.
#7
Posted 10 June 2010 - 02:31 PM
Damage is already done is my understanding.For a lager, does the junk have make it to the secondary vessel, or is the damage already done by then?
#8
Posted 10 June 2010 - 02:35 PM
Sorry to go too far off track here... what flavors would be the symptom of this?Damage is already done is my understanding.
#9
Posted 10 June 2010 - 02:51 PM
Any recommendations on where to get a brew kettle? A place in town has a 9.2 gallon kettle for $200. Is this a good deal? I think I only paid $65 for my 8 gallon stainless steel brew pot, but it does not have a spigot.I have a spigot on my brew kettle, and I drain the beer through the spigot.
#10
Posted 10 June 2010 - 02:54 PM
Not off track at all. One of the main questions I have is dump or siphon. Should I even bother with the extra trouble of doing a siphon?Sorry to go too far off track here... what flavors would be the symptom of this?
#11
Posted 10 June 2010 - 03:09 PM
I have a five year old Bohemian Pilsner that says otherwise.A little break material is a good yeast nutrient but too much will cause early staling of the beer. Probably not such a big deal for ales but it can be for lagers.
#12
Posted 10 June 2010 - 03:16 PM
KeggleThis is actually a good deal. 15.5 gallon kettle with 1/2" couplings all welded for you ready to accept a nipple and ball valve. I LOVE mine.Any recommendations on where to get a brew kettle? A place in town has a 9.2 gallon kettle for $200. Is this a good deal? I think I only paid $65 for my 8 gallon stainless steel brew pot, but it does not have a spigot.
#13
Posted 10 June 2010 - 03:21 PM
Staling, oxidation, maybe haze.Sorry to go too far off track here... what flavors would be the symptom of this?
#14
Posted 10 June 2010 - 06:45 PM
Here's a link to guy who's now a pro brewer in Europe, but when he was a homebrewer he did a side-by-side split test of trub and no trub batches of an APA. He preferred the beer with trub when young (slightly better hop aroma), and couldn't decide which he preferred after 4 months of aging.https://hbd.org/disc...0327/41534.htmlhttps://hbd.org/disc...0327/42496.htmlThere was also a different guy on the B&V board who won a couple medals at the 2008 NHBC who racks all of his trub into his fermenters. He basically said that it wasn't optimal to do that, but the differences were so small that it made more sense to expend energy on other parts of beer.Seriously, trub in the fermenter should be the least of your worries. Theoretically, trub can introduce some oxidized lipids and staling factors, but the fact is those compounds are not available to the beer because 99% of them stay in the precipitate and the effect of the other 1% is below the human threshold of perception.Staling, oxidation, maybe haze.
#15
Posted 11 June 2010 - 06:54 AM
#16
Posted 11 June 2010 - 07:53 AM
This place seems to have alright prices on full stainless weldless+SS ball valve setups. I think they also have a bit you can use to drill the hole you need for the bulkhead. I think I'm going to order a cooler weldless kit from them to replace the plastic spigot that is currently on my coller so I can hard pipe my FB to hold it down better.Adding a valve to the kettle is something I might be willing to try if the price was right and the risk of destroying my kettle was low.
#17
Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:26 AM
so people that drain from a bulkhead - do you have a screen or something on the inside of the kettle to filter out hops that won't clog up?This place seems to have alright prices on full stainless weldless+SS ball valve setups. I think they also have a bit you can use to drill the hole you need for the bulkhead. I think I'm going to order a cooler weldless kit from them to replace the plastic spigot that is currently on my coller so I can hard pipe my FB to hold it down better.
#18
Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:28 AM
If you use whole hops, you can use a screen or a FB. I don't use anything though, I just stop when it looks like it is getting a little thick in the tube.so people that drain from a bulkhead - do you have a screen or something on the inside of the kettle to filter out hops that won't clog up?
#19
Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:35 AM
I have a SS braid a la Denny at the bottom of my pickup tube in the keggle. I think the idea is that if you use whole hops, they will collect around the braid and act as a filter bed and catch break material, although the process isn't perfect. I rarely get perfectly clear wort in my primaries.so people that drain from a bulkhead - do you have a screen or something on the inside of the kettle to filter out hops that won't clog up?
#20
Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:45 AM
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