Edited by Kegdude, 03 June 2010 - 06:52 PM.
Open Fermentation
#1
Posted 03 June 2010 - 06:49 PM
#2
Posted 03 June 2010 - 07:29 PM
#3
Posted 03 June 2010 - 07:42 PM
#4
Posted 03 June 2010 - 08:10 PM
#5
Posted 03 June 2010 - 08:15 PM
Was the room in a positive pressure filtered environment? I would bet the farm on Yes. Many of the pro's do ferment in open vessels, but the rooms are designed for the process. Air filters and floors/walls that can be washed down, air blows out when the door is opened rather than being sucked in ... etc. There is a brewpub in my hometown that always produced musty beers, a house flavor that was tolerable in the red and stout, but down right nasty and flawed in their lager attempts. The last time I was home one of the staff showed me their fermentation room - semi open fermenters with no type of blow off tube. This is clearly the cause for their beer always tasting like the old warehouse it's produced in.Maybe Basser can fill us in on Sierra Nevada's process. Their video of the Big Foot fermenting in the open frequenters is awsome!Who says you need a cover?Open fermenters at Trumer:
#6
Posted 03 June 2010 - 08:24 PM
" It was there they realized the advantages of making wheat beer using the traditional system of open fermentation. ...... Most modern brewery fermentation takes place in closed, stainless-steel tanks; this method is efficient, quick and clean. In closed tanks, however, the yeast doesnt have the opportunity to coax as much complexity from the fermenting beer. Using shallow open fermentation, the yeast has space to build layers of flavors and aroma that would otherwise be impossible. ......"
#7
Posted 03 June 2010 - 09:22 PM
#8
Posted 04 June 2010 - 10:49 AM
#9
Posted 04 June 2010 - 11:54 AM
#10
Posted 04 June 2010 - 01:52 PM
Maybe the first part was oxygenation?What's the deal with the levels going up and down a few times? I would expect to see the tank get filled, then see the foam kick up and back down again. Then drain the tank.
#11
Posted 04 June 2010 - 01:57 PM
#12
Posted 17 June 2010 - 12:16 PM
I guess for an AG brew you would just substitute 7 lbs wheat malt (total).So it would be:OG: 1.048 (5 gallons)IBU's: 16Grains:7# wheat1# munich0.5oz Palisades 9%(60) (I will need a substitute, but I can't remember all the hops I have on hand)Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan WeizenPretty simple recipe.Cheers,RichFive gallons, partial-mashOG: 1.048IBU: 16grist: * 1.5 lbs Weyermann Pale Wheat * 1 lb German Munich (20 EBC)mash: multi-temp infusion * 100 F for 5" * 122 F for 10" * 152 F for 30"boil additions: * 3 lbs wheat malt syrup @ 60" * 0.5 oz Palisade (plug, 9%) @ 60" * 3 lbs wheat malt syrup @ 15"Second krausen: creamy and activefermentation: * Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen * primary: an uncovered 8 gallon bucket o 3 days @ 64 F + 18 hours: flecks of foam, aroma is worty + 20 hours: first krausen, clove and plastic aroma + 22 hours: krausen is scuzzy; clove, ripe banana, and bread dough + 24 hours: skimmed krausen (discarded) and roused, SG 1.042 + 26 hours: second krausen; bubblegum, clove, cinnamon + 48 hours: krausen is creamy and very active; banana cream pie; skimmed krausen (saved) and roused; SG 1.028 + 72 hours: krausen still creamy but no longer bubbling; cloves back; SG 1.018, rack to closed secondary * 7 days @ 64 F in an airlocked 5 gallon carboy, SG 1.012 * crash cool 3 days * package, carb it high, and drink it like you brewed it
Edited by rcemech, 17 June 2010 - 12:46 PM.
#13
Posted 18 June 2010 - 06:49 AM
#14
Posted 18 June 2010 - 08:13 AM
Wheat tends to stick in the mash. If you do this recipe with 87% wheat, I'd recommend some rice hulls or something else to jeep your mash from turning into jointing compound. Otherwise you could have a very frustrating brew day. Most wheat malts are 50/50 or 60/40 ratios of wheat to 2-row or pilsener, because the extract makers can;t handle a mash of 100% wheat. The classic ratio for German wheat beers is 60/40 wheat to pilsener. My suggestion for a wheat beer recipe is:6 pounds wheat4 pounds pilsener0.5oz Saaz (60 min)Multi-step infusion mash (110dF for Ferulic acid, 130dF to degrade beta-glucans, 150dF for saccharification). You can also do a single temperature, and probably get the same results, but I like to geek out over multiple step mashes with German beers.Wyeast 3068 (just the propagator smack-pack, no starter, and not the activator pack; you want to underpitch this yeast)Ferment in the 70dF to 75dF range. If you ferment in the 60s, you won't get the flavor profile you want from the yeast.OG: 1.048 (5 gallons)IBU's: 16Grains:7# wheat1# munich0.5oz Palisades 9%(60) (I will need a substitute, but I can't remember all the hops I have on hand)Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Weizen
#15
Posted 18 June 2010 - 10:44 AM
I have never done a multistep mash, don't know how, and I batch sparge. So I think I would do a single step. I would think that they have a pound of munich in there to get a little more malt flavor for a reason, so why not 5lb wheat, 4 lb pils, 1 lb munich? Do i still need rice hulls (I have never had a stuck sparge, my set up is slick).BTW: the GF put the kibosh on doing an open fermentation. She's worried about stinking up the house.Cheers,RichWheat tends to stick in the mash. If you do this recipe with 87% wheat, I'd recommend some rice hulls or something else to jeep your mash from turning into jointing compound. Otherwise you could have a very frustrating brew day. Most wheat malts are 50/50 or 60/40 ratios of wheat to 2-row or pilsener, because the extract makers can;t handle a mash of 100% wheat. The classic ratio for German wheat beers is 60/40 wheat to pilsener. My suggestion for a wheat beer recipe is:6 pounds wheat4 pounds pilsener0.5oz Saaz (60 min)Multi-step infusion mash (110dF for Ferulic acid, 130dF to degrade beta-glucans, 150dF for saccharification). You can also do a single temperature, and probably get the same results, but I like to geek out over multiple step mashes with German beers.Wyeast 3068 (just the propagator smack-pack, no starter, and not the activator pack; you want to underpitch this yeast)Ferment in the 70dF to 75dF range. If you ferment in the 60s, you won't get the flavor profile you want from the yeast.
#16
Posted 18 June 2010 - 11:23 AM
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