Better Bottles
#41
Posted 26 May 2010 - 04:47 PM
#42
Posted 09 June 2010 - 06:05 PM
#43 *_Guest_Matt C_*
Posted 09 June 2010 - 07:02 PM
This exactly. I love BB's but when you goto lift them, make sure either your airlock is off or empty. That pisses me off every time that happens! :)By the way oxyclean will clean the BB and glass with some good hot water and a little time. get the cheap Sun Cleaner stuff works just as well for half the cost of Oxyclean and just as good as PBW to all of you loyalists!The only flaw they have, IMO, is that they will suck back the contents of an airlock if lifted while full. However, I think your brew hauler would solve even that little problem.
#44
Posted 09 June 2010 - 08:50 PM
I think the point is you trade a little air flow knowing you're less likely to kill yourself if you slipped hauling a brew. Also, maybe you get a great price on glass ... a 6g better bottle is $15 less than a 6 or 6.5g glass carboy just about everywhere. As far as keeping it pressure tight while moving, use a S/bubble air lock, fold some saran wrap into a few layers, cover your airlock and put the air lock top on it or secure the saran wrap wrap with a tight rubber band. This kept air out of my bucket when moving last. Or even easier, get a solid rubber bung, use that for transport then add the drilled stopper when you've reached your final destination. I noticed a small crack in one of my 6.5 glass carboys last time I brewed. I'm so glad I found it during a rinse. I ferment in a basement and moving carboy's up and down the stairs is scary. I'm going to start phasing out my glass during primary for safety reasons. I'll keep them around for long term aging for meads and lambics ...I think I am officially done with these after all the air I just sucked into one. If you have to be even more careful when moving one for air reasons than you do with glass for fragile reasons, what is the point? They aren't any cheaper either. I'm going back to glass + brew hauler unless I can find a plastic more sturdy than the better bottle or figure out a way to make my airlocks pressure tight while moving.
#45
Posted 09 June 2010 - 08:53 PM
#46
Posted 09 June 2010 - 10:34 PM
It is MUCH better with an S-type air lock. The 3 piece ones have no option except to suck the liquid down. An S-type will suck an air bubble back through the sanitizer and into the head space if you lift slowly. If you lift too quickly, though, even an S-type will suck the sanitizer in. I found these #10 silicone stoppers at my LHBS that word great for moving and for secondary. The have sort of a check valve flap that lets gas out, but not in. I tried them for primary ferment, too, but that was in the middle of my problems last year with contamination. I'm pretty sure they had nothing to do with the contamination (it was the starsan.) but I haven't gone back to them yet.Also, just grab around the neck of the BB and lift it up by just the neck. Then the backflow isn't an issue. :)I've had them suck in the sanitizer a couple of times, never had an issue from it. It is better with the S type ferm lock.
#47
Posted 09 June 2010 - 11:34 PM
I too have used the silicone bung thing. It's alright, i think I still prefer the S type air lock though. I really need to do a blowoff tube on these though, or try the fermcap stuff so I don't have to worry about all this foam problems.It is MUCH better with an S-type air lock. The 3 piece ones have no option except to suck the liquid down. An S-type will suck an air bubble back through the sanitizer and into the head space if you lift slowly. If you lift too quickly, though, even an S-type will suck the sanitizer in. I found these #10 silicone stoppers at my LHBS that word great for moving and for secondary. The have sort of a check valve flap that lets gas out, but not in. I tried them for primary ferment, too, but that was in the middle of my problems last year with contamination. I'm pretty sure they had nothing to do with the contamination (it was the starsan.) but I haven't gone back to them yet.
#48
Posted 10 June 2010 - 07:42 AM
Hmmm... never thought of this for some reason. Guess it's about time I invested in a couple S-types. Still have never used one in 7 years of brewing. Go figureIt is MUCH better with an S-type air lock. The 3 piece ones have no option except to suck the liquid down. An S-type will suck an air bubble back through the sanitizer and into the head space if you lift slowly. If you lift too quickly, though, even an S-type will suck the sanitizer in.
#49
Posted 10 June 2010 - 10:14 AM
#50
Posted 10 June 2010 - 11:58 AM
I would think that has to do with how you pitched more than anything. Did you swirl the starter get approximately equal amounts of yeast in the pitches? Also, were the bottles sanitized the same way? Were both the batches fermented in identical settings (both in your basement for example)?Cheers,Richso an interesting observation - not sure if it has anything to do with better bottles or it's just a weird conincidence.my buddy and I did a 10 gallon batch split into two fermentors 10 days ago. We built one starter of yeast and split the starter between the two fermentors. His was a 6.5gal glass fermentor, mine a 6gal BB. I looked last night to take a gravity reading. According to the hydro reading, fermentation was complete (1.009). His had no krausen on top, just the light scum layer that kicks around before crash cooling the beer. Mine had a 3/4" thick foam layer on top still. No idea if it's due to the BB vs. Glass, but an interesting observation, nonetheless.Any ideas?
#51
Posted 10 June 2010 - 01:43 PM
yes - starter was on a stir plate until the minute I pitched - I kept swirling while pouring into both fermentors. Bottles were both sanitized with a good soaking of starsan.Both batches were fermented in the same fermentation fridge at the exact same temperature.I would think that has to do with how you pitched more than anything. Did you swirl the starter get approximately equal amounts of yeast in the pitches? Also, were the bottles sanitized the same way? Were both the batches fermented in identical settings (both in your basement for example)?
#52
Posted 10 June 2010 - 02:51 PM
I would imagine that your buddy's beer fermented a few degrees warmer than you simply because of the heat produced by the yeast during fermentation is better insulated in glass. Wild guess though, so who knows?yes - starter was on a stir plate until the minute I pitched - I kept swirling while pouring into both fermentors. Bottles were both sanitized with a good soaking of starsan.Both batches were fermented in the same fermentation fridge at the exact same temperature.
#53
Posted 12 June 2010 - 04:05 PM
#54
Posted 13 June 2010 - 04:29 AM
since this is a better bottle thread I'm going to assume you are considering a glass carboy vs a better bottle for secondary. You say you prefer glass - why?I prefer having my beer sit in glass if for any extended periods of time; secondary for example.
#55
Posted 13 June 2010 - 04:58 AM
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