"Test Bottle" query.
#1
Posted 04 May 2010 - 10:38 AM
#2
Posted 04 May 2010 - 11:50 AM
You didn't say how, or if, you primed the bottle... need more info on that.Good day, Gang.Some of you may recall my maple wee heavy from a couple months ago. Long and short, my initial yeast population wasn't strong enough...AND I racked too cleanly (left too much yeast behind) when I moved the brew to the secondary and added a lot of maple syrup. I'd subsequently gone through two additions of dry (hydrated) yeast to bring the FG down from 1.048 (OG was, with the maple, effectively 1.100) 'cause I was worried about bottle bombs. It's dropped oh so slowly to 1.043 and appears to have the tiniest bit of action going on with the smallest surface bubbles I've ever seen in little groupings (8, 10, 12 smaller-than-pinhead-sized bubbles).So...last Friday, I bottled (with no additional yeast or priming sugar) one glass bottle of it and one plastic Poland Spring 12-oz. water bottle of it to monitor carbonation. When moving the filled-and-capped plastic bottle, I made the ultimate error and it slipped out of my hand, bouncing on the floor, carbing up. DUH. I know, I know. Mistakes happen. I tucked it away under my kitchen cabinet (room temp: 70ish). There's now yeast at the bottom (maybe a good sign, maybe not), and the plastic bottle's quite firm/hard and beginning to bulge a bit on the bottom and the cap's bulging a bit.Question: Should I let the air out and see if it expands again, or assume that it's carbing up on its own?I did this test 'cause I didn't want to chance having 40+ bottle bombs in my closet (2 are better if any at all).Anyone have experience with test bottles like this (or any suggestions)? At this point, I won't be introducing ANOTHER batch of yeast to try to bring the gravity down; it's got 3 kinds in it already! It tastes really nice (and sweet, as I'd planned), and I don't want to dry it out.Essentially, I was thinking that if these do carb up on their own, I'd bottle the rest of the batch, give it about two weeks, then stick 'em all in the fridge to kill/slow the yeast.THANKS big time,Nige
#3
Posted 04 May 2010 - 12:16 PM
Think he said that he didn't use any additional priming sugar...You didn't say how, or if, you primed the bottle... need more info on that.
#4
Posted 04 May 2010 - 12:44 PM
ah yes... I see that now...Well, the purpose of the plastic bottle is to gauge the carbonation. If it is bulging, I would be worried. If he opens them (both the plastic and the one glass bottle) I would bet that they would be gushers. Bottling and carbonating for a few weeks and putting them in the fridge is still a very imprecise method. If it were me... I'd kill all the yeast with some metabisulfate and keg the stuff with force carbonation.Think he said that he didn't use any additional priming sugar...
#5
Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:33 PM
#6
Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:43 PM
He only bottled one glass and one plastic. The rest is apparently waiting the test. If that is the case, I'd keg it per my prior note.I don't recall what the psi is for pop but it's way over what we use in the most carbonated beers. If the bottle is bulging you probably have some potential bottle bombs.If it were me, I'd chill them overnight to almost freezing, open and reseal. Then keep them cold until consumed. Kegging would be tough since they're probably overcarbed now. Be careful with them.
#7
Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:50 PM
Missed that one.........I'd keg it and keep it cold. I don't know if meta would kill the yeast or not to be honest. When I use it for Chloramines I'm sure it gets busted up and looses that effect. And I know squat about winemaking..........He only bottled one glass and one plastic. The rest is apparently waiting the test. If that is the case, I'd keg it per my prior note.
#8
Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:56 PM
#9
Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:26 PM
I think oxidation is the least of your worries here. Remember that for a given amount of pressure, the smaller the aperture, the higher the velocity of the expellant. Chill it really cold first before you open it but also put a towel over it and do it in the sink.If I gently loosen the cap of the plastic bottle (maybe just one thread of the cap) to let the CO2 out and then reseal/retighten it, would that serve to introduce oxygen and possibly oxidize the beer?
#10
Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:38 PM
Makes sense. Thanks. So if it's still got enough live yeast in there, it makes sense that even if I do open it a little bit to let the current CO2 out, I can reclose it and it would then refill with CO2? (This is at the heart of my question, I suppose.)I think oxidation is the least of your worries here. Remember that for a given amount of pressure, the smaller the aperture, the higher the velocity of the expellant. Chill it really cold first before you open it but also put a towel over it and do it in the sink.
#11
Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:40 PM
#12
Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:41 PM
#13
Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:12 PM
Why don't you just drink it?Makes sense. Thanks. So if it's still got enough live yeast in there, it makes sense that even if I do open it a little bit to let the current CO2 out, I can reclose it and it would then refill with CO2? (This is at the heart of my question, I suppose.)
#14
Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:12 PM
Hi Rich,I brewed this one on 1/26, and it was in the secondary for a while and now in the tertiary for ages. Still small signs of fermentation. :/ It's slow and steady, alright. I'm happy to mellow it and will wait as long as it takes, but it looks like it just may ferment forever at this rate 'til it rots. :smilielol:Deerslyr: Hey, thanks for your input on this. Yeah, it's getting pretty discouraging. You played a good part in the original discussion. Damn, there's GOT to be SOMETHING I can do to salvage it (short of making malt vinegar of it). <sigh>Can you let it all sit in secondary for a couple more weeks and see if the gravity doesn't fall some more, maybe its just slow and steady. Since this is a high gravity brew anyway, don't you want it to mellow out a bit before you consume it?Cheers,Rich
#15
Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:28 PM
1. chill the two bottles2. drink themThe rest is up to you to try it - I wouldn't3. bottle another in a plastic bottle4. bottle the rest5. as soon as it shows signs of carbing keep the rest at 32df and drink it fast.......or wait it out until gravity stabilizes - which may never happenor beg, borrow a keg from a buddy, chill, carb and drinkthat's about all I've got.........................Damn, there's GOT to be SOMETHING I can do to salvage it (short of making malt vinegar of it). <sigh>
Edited by dj in kc, 04 May 2010 - 03:34 PM.
#16
Posted 04 May 2010 - 04:03 PM
This. Let the beer tell you when its ready. It will be fine. Some of the maple may fade, but overall it will just get more interesting. It is only 3ish months old. I say forget about it until 6-9 months..... I'm happy to mellow it and will wait as long as it takes....
#17
Posted 04 May 2010 - 04:18 PM
I 2nd the nomination.This. Let the beer tell you when its ready. It will be fine. Some of the maple may fade, but overall it will just get more interesting. It is only 3ish months old. I say forget about it until 6-9 months.
#18
Posted 04 May 2010 - 04:57 PM
I didn't mean to be too discouraging. It's just that at a certain point you will have put more effort into it then its worth. It's just so much easier to do these things when kegging is an option. You could just buy a 5 gallon ball lock keg and a gas charger, put the beer in there, seat the lid with the gas and occasionally (i.e. once a week) release the gas. Stainless Steel is a fantastic aging chamber. This would free up your other equipment. I had an Old Ale that I aged in a keg like this for about 5 or 6 months. It's just really tough to tell you what to do when there is an uncertainty as to how much your beer would carbonate. If the vessel that it is in can be simply forgotten, then just set it aside. I would caution that if it is a plastic bucket, there is a degree of permeability that will allow oxygen into the beer. If you have a glass carboy you are fine. But then for the amount of time you may need to leave it, it means that you have one less piece of equipment available to you.Hi Rich,I brewed this one on 1/26, and it was in the secondary for a while and now in the tertiary for ages. Still small signs of fermentation. :/ It's slow and steady, alright. I'm happy to mellow it and will wait as long as it takes, but it looks like it just may ferment forever at this rate 'til it rots. :smilielol:Deerslyr: Hey, thanks for your input on this. Yeah, it's getting pretty discouraging. You played a good part in the original discussion. Damn, there's GOT to be SOMETHING I can do to salvage it (short of making malt vinegar of it). <sigh>
#19
Posted 04 May 2010 - 05:33 PM
#20
Posted 04 May 2010 - 06:43 PM
This is generally true, however the OP has had issues with the yeast doing what they need to do. It's been all this time and he has yet to reach terminal gravity.I am a newb so correct me if I am wrong, you can let a beer sit for a long time if its at the correct temp and has little air interference, plus the yeast is still going?Cheers,Rich
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