Filtering an IPA before bottling?
#1
Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:29 PM
#2
Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:33 PM
I have never tried filtering my home brew after the secondary, but I would think that using a cheese cloth or coffee filter is going to add a lot of oxygen into the beer at a time when you do not want any oxygen added to your beer. If you want to truly filter without adding oxygen then you need to push the beer in a closed enviroment through a filter using CO2.EdI brewed up my first ever IPA almost two weeks ago. This past Sunday, I racked from the primary to the secondary and dry-hopped with an ounce of Amarillo pellets. I'm going to be bottling this weekend but want to eliminate as much hop residue as possible. So I got to thinking this morning if somehow filtering into the bottling bucket would be possible. Cheese cloth?Coffee filter?All sanitized of course....Anyone have any tips or past experiences?Thanks!
#3
Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:35 PM
#4
Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:43 PM
#5
Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:56 PM
#6
Posted 23 April 2009 - 12:58 PM
This works fine. Be prepared for it to clog, though. When it does, swish it around gently to dislodge a bit of hops and soldier on. It will probably take longer than a typical transfer, too.A sanitized cheesecloth or hop bag wrapped around your racking cane should do the trick. Next time put your dry hops in a hop bag and hang them in secondary. It makes racking and cleanup much easier.
#7
Posted 23 April 2009 - 01:01 PM
Another on is a new SS scrubby (not steel wool!) over the tipThis works fine. Be prepared for it to clog, though. When it does, swish it around gently to dislodge a bit of hops and soldier on. It will probably take longer than a typical transfer, too.
#8
Posted 23 April 2009 - 01:02 PM
I don't know if I have the ability to "crash cool". I could get it down to 55 degrees but not any further. Is that cool enough? Let's say I bottled as is, will the hops settle at the bottom of the bottle similar to yeast or will they remain suspended?I thought filtering last year would be a great idea as well. I don't see a point in it now. I second the idea to crash cool before you transfer. You can leave so much behind that way too.
#9
Posted 23 April 2009 - 01:08 PM
No you want sub 40 temps to really knock things out. A spare fridge is prime for stuff like this.Put something over your racking cane to dodge most of it and the rest will settle out.I don't know if I have the ability to "crash cool". I could get it down to 55 degrees but not any further. Is that cool enough? Let's say I bottled as is, will the hops settle at the bottom of the bottle similar to yeast or will they remain suspended?
#10
Posted 23 April 2009 - 01:56 PM
#11
Posted 23 April 2009 - 02:01 PM
#12
Posted 23 April 2009 - 03:41 PM
#13
Posted 23 April 2009 - 07:14 PM
#14
Posted 23 April 2009 - 07:46 PM
I have never tried to cold crash hops to get them to fall out of suspension... Yeast on the other hand works great. I'll have to give this a try. I have always been a gentle shaker and waiter. And I am one of those rackers who always leaves a bit behind in transfers and let the first few pours of the keg do the final clean up.I cold crash mine to sub 30 to drop everything out.
#15
Posted 24 April 2009 - 06:02 AM
I don't know why this works, but it really does. When the beer gets cold, everything falls out. If you're cold crashing to drop yeast, you can plan on it dropping hop material too.I have never tried to cold crash hops to get them to fall out of suspension... Yeast on the other hand works great. I'll have to give this a try. I have always been a gentle shaker and waiter. And I am one of those rackers who always leaves a bit behind in transfers and let the first few pours of the keg do the final clean up.
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