I had to re-read this about 10x..but i get it now lonnie. i hate to run the flex line 18 inches or so all the way to the HLT.. but if i dont wanna drill into the beam again its really my only option...I see the pics...Let me see if I can spell this out without trying to draw it... :blush:So at the middle burner, swap the 90 at the gas beam with the the tee fitting under the asco valve. Replace your 6" stubby with two nipples and a 1/4 turn valve to shut off and control your burner before the asco valve... This all will be coming out from the side of the tee on the gas beam... Use the shortest nipple you have at the gas beam for the tee... From the top of this tee fitting, plumb your two pilot branches with individual pilot 1/4 turn valves.On your HLT branch, loose that tee altogether and replace it with a 1/4 turn valve...Then brew!
question on brutus 10
#21
Posted 20 April 2009 - 04:56 PM
#22
Posted 20 April 2009 - 06:10 PM
Be the gas my friend. Be the gas. There are a few more ways to do this. Though I can't see how the dude welded that coupling 6" off!But if you wanted it to be clean, go ahead and have him install another coupling in the center where it is supposed to be and plumb that just like you are going to do for the HLT...Use the coupling that he welded 6" off as your pilot manifold.I had to re-read this about 10x..but i get it now lonnie. i hate to run the flex line 18 inches or so all the way to the HLT.. but if i dont wanna drill into the beam again its really my only option...
Edited by Lonnie Mac, 20 April 2009 - 06:13 PM.
#23
Posted 20 April 2009 - 06:18 PM
well u know how the instructions say 6 inches.. then it says 18 inches? the guy thought it was 18 from the side to there instead of 18 from the one opening to there. Would u see a porblem with me putting the quarter ball valve for my big stubby is... then where i currently have the MT pilot just tee that off? i mean I would think the pilots will still connect enough flame to start a good spread even if it is regulated down a bit..agree? and it would be more neat and compaq and easier to do...Be the gas my friend. Be the gas. There are a few more ways to do this. Though I can't see how the dude welded that coupling 6" off!
#24
Posted 20 April 2009 - 06:41 PM
Hard to explain. I draw pictures!So this might work, but you will have a logistical nightmare trying to keep the pilots alive and the gas valve off, which you will want to do at times. You really need a dedicated branch of some sort to the pilots that is totally separate from the burners...well u know how the instructions say 6 inches.. then it says 18 inches? the guy thought it was 18 from the side to there instead of 18 from the one opening to there. Would u see a porblem with me putting the quarter ball valve for my big stubby is... then where i currently have the MT pilot just tee that off? i mean I would think the pilots will still connect enough flame to start a good spread even if it is regulated down a bit..agree? and it would be more neat and compaq and easier to do...
#25
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:25 AM
#26
Posted 21 April 2009 - 10:13 AM
My welder charged me 500...sorry for this dumb question, but I have been thinking about building one of these bad boys, but then it occurred to me: how much would the welder alone be to put one of these things together?
#27
Posted 21 April 2009 - 12:04 PM
#28
Posted 21 April 2009 - 03:52 PM
2k-3k$500, eh so what is the total damage going to be? i may be reconsidering this.....
#29
Posted 21 April 2009 - 04:35 PM
Aren't these solenoid valves? I don't think anything turns...if not...Do I just turn that red thing on the outside, to what i would notmally think of as a closed position in most aplications, and that manually closes everything off?
#30
Posted 21 April 2009 - 04:48 PM
Yes, this part is confusing me. Nothing on the solenoid valve turns. It is either on or it is off...Aren't these solenoid valves? I don't think anything turns...
#31
Posted 21 April 2009 - 06:39 PM
#32
Posted 21 April 2009 - 07:04 PM
The simple fix for me was to increase the distance between the jets and the bottom of my kettles.He has a distance of 5-5.5" which should be pretty damn close to perfect. (Mine was just about 5")No I think a quarter turn one will give you enough control. I started out with 23 jet burners because that is all I could find. I had nothing but bad luck with them. The burner shot half the flame around the keg instead of under it. I ended up plugging half the jets to rduce the power but still couldn't get it to burn right. Sometimes the gas would come right through the metal in the burner itself. Maybe they were defective but all three gave me problems. Anyway I am now using the $10.00 high pressure cast iron ones from Bayou classic and they work like a dream.Not trying to throw some bad vibes at you HerrHiller just letting you know about my bad experience.
Edited by HarvInSTL, 21 April 2009 - 07:04 PM.
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