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#1 HerrHiller

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 06:45 AM

I have asked this question before.. but didn't really get too much of an answer.. On the main gas feed of the 2 burners that are temp controlled, (because I did mine a tad bit differently than Lonnie (on accident) ) I do not have room for a regular just manual shutoff valve. I only have room for this ASCO valve and so I want to know if you guys think this is still safe? for instance.. does the valve automatically close in the ASCO when i have the LOVE temp controllers turned off? if not...Do I just turn that red thing on the outside, to what i would notmally think of as a closed position in most aplications, and that manually closes everything off? or do I need a brass shutoff valve in my piping as well? if ur wondering why I don't have room, I kinda n00bed it up. I didnt have the stainless steel tees, but I did have extra stainless steel couplers...so instead of welding the tees directly into the gasbeam.. I did couplers.. then a nipples to the tee. this add a significant amount of height when we are talking a difference of a few inches. Where it stands now I have about 4.5-5 inches of clearance between my 103,000BTU burners, and my kettles. which I understand is where I wanna be.

#2 cbbrown40

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 07:12 AM

I have asked this question before.. but didn't really get too much of an answer.. On the main gas feed of the 2 burners that are temp controlled, (because I did mine a tad bit differently than Lonnie (on accident) ) I do not have room for a regular just manual shutoff valve. I only have room for this ASCO valve and so I want to know if you guys think this is still safe? for instance.. does the valve automatically close in the ASCO when i have the LOVE temp controllers turned off? if not...Do I just turn that red thing on the outside, to what i would notmally think of as a closed position in most aplications, and that manually closes everything off? or do I need a brass shutoff valve in my piping as well? if ur wondering why I don't have room, I kinda n00bed it up. I didnt have the stainless steel tees, but I did have extra stainless steel couplers...so instead of welding the tees directly into the gasbeam.. I did couplers.. then a nipples to the tee. this add a significant amount of height when we are talking a difference of a few inches. Where it stands now I have about 4.5-5 inches of clearance between my 103,000BTU burners, and my kettles. which I understand is where I wanna be.

I think you want a on off switch. Lets see some pics

#3 Hillbilly Deluxe

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 08:26 AM

I have asked this question before.. but didn't really get too much of an answer.. On the main gas feed of the 2 burners that are temp controlled, (because I did mine a tad bit differently than Lonnie (on accident) ) I do not have room for a regular just manual shutoff valve. I only have room for this ASCO valve and so I want to know if you guys think this is still safe? for instance.. does the valve automatically close in the ASCO when i have the LOVE temp controllers turned off? if not...Do I just turn that red thing on the outside, to what i would notmally think of as a closed position in most aplications, and that manually closes everything off? or do I need a brass shutoff valve in my piping as well? if ur wondering why I don't have room, I kinda n00bed it up. I didnt have the stainless steel tees, but I did have extra stainless steel couplers...so instead of welding the tees directly into the gasbeam.. I did couplers.. then a nipples to the tee. this add a significant amount of height when we are talking a difference of a few inches. Where it stands now I have about 4.5-5 inches of clearance between my 103,000BTU burners, and my kettles. which I understand is where I wanna be.

If I'm not mistaken, you want to use N/C Asco valves. Normally Closed. The Love controllers will open them for firing. In the description of the valve, the operation will be noted Normally closed or Normally open.. Is that what you are asking?

#4 HerrHiller

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:27 AM

If I'm not mistaken, you want to use N/C Asco valves. Normally Closed. The Love controllers will open them for firing. In the description of the valve, the operation will be noted Normally closed or Normally open.. Is that what you are asking?

thanx bro that is exactly the info I was looking for! this is a n/c. awesome. so this means it will always be closed unless the temp controller is telling it to be open! correct? thanx bro.. so really an additional on/off valve wouldnt be neccasary. right? pics to come soon BTW.

#5 realbeerguy

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:34 AM

I would add some sort of manual shut-off valve prior to the ASCO. The ASCO being a mechanical valve, could fail. While it is highly unlikely, some sort of shut-off shuld be put in, say at the gas source. It doesn't have to be on the unit, but somewhere in the supply line.

#6 HerrHiller

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 09:40 AM

I would add some sort of manual shut-off valve prior to the ASCO. The ASCO being a mechanical valve, could fail. While it is highly unlikely, some sort of shut-off shuld be put in, say at the gas source. It doesn't have to be on the unit, but somewhere in the supply line.

Wouldnt shutting off the propane bottle do basically the same thing tho?

#7 Cliff Claven

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 10:41 AM

IMO a ball valve should be installed. Easier to turn a ball valve off than turn a fully open tank valve to fully closed in an emergency.

#8 Lonnie Mac

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 11:25 AM

Herr... If I can get this without a pic, I would lose the Tee fittings and install ball valves in their place. You NEED a valve before each ASCO valve. You will want to regulate the burners and you will want a means to shut the burner off.Now, the Tee is only for the pilot branch. Just drill a new hole and weld on another coupling onto your gas beam (kinda between your HLT and MLT) and run your pilot branch off of that.

#9 Hillbilly Deluxe

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 12:00 PM

sorry to leave you hanging there Herr... Nothing better than advice from Lonnie himself..

#10 HerrHiller

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 12:36 PM

Ok here are some pics homies. The MT one if run horizontal because the guy who fabbed it for me kind messed up and put one of the pilot feeds 6 inches off. he read the book wrong i guess... anywho im kinda proud of how i still made it work.. and i think it kinda looks cool.. and yes i got a big excessive with the pipe doping....also sorry for the bad quality cam....I will prolly do as lonnie said.. but maybe from these pics you guys can think of another solutionFirst the Boil Kettle one.. Posted ImageMT now. Posted Imageand lastly the HLT.. and this one does not have a burner but thats because im still getting the pilots...Posted Image

#11 HerrHiller

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 12:41 PM

I dont fully understand why an on/off valve needs to be installed on each individual pipe.. could I make an on/off valve at the inleft of the whole beam where the gas comes in and call it a day?

#12 cbbrown40

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 01:44 PM

Your Asco valve is going to turn it fully on or fully off. You may want to control the burners to where one is pushing alot more gas than another for example. I Don't have Asco valves on my Brutus I do it all manually so my story may be a little different but I typically will have three different flows of gas from all three of my burners. The way you are talking about you would have fully on or fully off. You also have the big burners and they are much harder to control than the smaller ones Like Lonnie has on his system.

#13 HerrHiller

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 02:10 PM

ya unfortunately I didn't have any luck funding the smaller burners like lonnie has.. so if these adiitional ball valves are siply for controlling the flow.. then should I get something else beside quarter turn valves so I have more control? then just put a quarter turn at the inlet for safety?

#14 cbbrown40

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 03:27 PM

ya unfortunately I didn't have any luck funding the smaller burners like lonnie has.. so if these adiitional ball valves are siply for controlling the flow.. then should I get something else beside quarter turn valves so I have more control? then just put a quarter turn at the inlet for safety?

No I think a quarter turn one will give you enough control. I started out with 23 jet burners because that is all I could find. I had nothing but bad luck with them. The burner shot half the flame around the keg instead of under it. I ended up plugging half the jets to rduce the power but still couldn't get it to burn right. Sometimes the gas would come right through the metal in the burner itself. Maybe they were defective but all three gave me problems. Anyway I am now using the $10.00 high pressure cast iron ones from Bayou classic and they work like a dream.Not trying to throw some bad vibes at you HerrHiller just letting you know about my bad experience.

#15 Lagerdemain

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Posted 19 April 2009 - 03:42 PM

No I think a quarter turn one will give you enough control. I started out with 23 jet burners because that is all I could find. I had nothing but bad luck with them. The burner shot half the flame around the keg instead of under it. I ended up plugging half the jets to rduce the power but still couldn't get it to burn right. Sometimes the gas would come right through the metal in the burner itself. Maybe they were defective but all three gave me problems. Anyway I am now using the $10.00 high pressure cast iron ones from Bayou classic and they work like a dream.Not trying to throw some bad vibes at you HerrHiller just letting you know about my bad experience.

Are you sure you were using the right burners? If you were using burners intended for natural gas with a propane-fueled system, that might produce the same results you're describing.

#16 matt6150

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 03:01 PM

Not to get off topic here, but if it were me I would do something to support the weight of your burners. Just doesn't seem that supportive for pipe threads to be holding there weight, ecspecially the middle burner :blush: that whole mess right there doesn't look too good. Sorry for the criticism just my .02 cents. If your gong to spend that much time and money on something that might last you a lifetime, might as well take some extra steps.

#17 CaptRon

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 03:16 PM

Not to get off topic here, but if it were me I would do something to support the weight of your burners. Just doesn't seem that supportive for pipe threads to be holding there weight, ecspecially the middle burner :blush: that whole mess right there doesn't look too good. Sorry for the criticism just my .02 cents. If your gong to spend that much time and money on something that might last you a lifetime, might as well take some extra steps.

That is 1/2" steel pipe I believe? He could extend that another 6" and not have to worry about it I would think.

#18 Lonnie Mac

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 03:17 PM

Ok here are some pics homies. The MT one if run horizontal because the guy who fabbed it for me kind messed up and put one of the pilot feeds 6 inches off. he read the book wrong i guess... anywho im kinda proud of how i still made it work.. and i think it kinda looks cool.. and yes i got a big excessive with the pipe doping....also sorry for the bad quality cam....I will prolly do as lonnie said.. but maybe from these pics you guys can think of another solutionFirst the Boil Kettle one.. Posted ImageMT now. Posted Imageand lastly the HLT.. and this one does not have a burner but thats because im still getting the pilots...Posted Image

I see the pics...Let me see if I can spell this out without trying to draw it... :blush:So at the middle burner, swap the 90 at the gas beam with the the tee fitting under the asco valve. Replace your 6" stubby with two nipples and a 1/4 turn valve to shut off and control your burner before the asco valve... This all will be coming out from the side of the tee on the gas beam... Use the shortest nipple you have at the gas beam for the tee... From the top of this tee fitting, plumb your two pilot branches with individual pilot 1/4 turn valves.On your HLT branch, loose that tee altogether and replace it with a 1/4 turn valve...Then brew!

#19 Lonnie Mac

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 03:19 PM

That is 1/2" steel pipe I believe? He could extend that another 6" and not have to worry about it I would think.

I agree too... If anything, the brass body asco or 1/4 turn valves would be the weakest link, although I still think this setup is just fine... This is man pipe!

#20 CaptRon

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Posted 20 April 2009 - 03:21 PM

I agree too... If anything, the brass body asco or 1/4 turn valves would be the weakest link, although I still think this setup is just fine... This is man pipe!

Nah, this is still baby pipe. I've worked with 10" steel piping using the Victaulic? fittings. That was man-pipe.Baby pipe, man-pipe? Wait, what? :blush:


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