4 replies to this topic

[MyaCullen]

A while back the boss was getting ready to dispose of a Motor that I snagged with his permission.I thought cool i bet I can use that to motorize my C & S.Well looking at the plate it says its a Dayton Shaded Pole Gear MotorModel 3M158B F/L RPM 30 F/L TORQUE 113 IN-LBS HP 1/10SF 1.0 F/L AMP 2.6 VOLTS 115 HZ 60 PH 1To use it to mill i need a bunch more revolutions.I was initially thinking a pulley syatem with the larger on the motor. Or do they have interchangable gears that maybe could be swapped to a faster pitch?Any other thoughts?

[stellarbrew]

A while back the boss was getting ready to dispose of a Motor that I snagged with his permission.I thought cool i bet I can use that to motorize my C & S.Well looking at the plate it says its a Dayton Shaded Pole Gear MotorModel 3M158B F/L RPM 30 F/L TORQUE 113 IN-LBS HP 1/10SF 1.0 F/L AMP 2.6 VOLTS 115 HZ 60 PH 1To use it to mill i need a bunch more revolutions.I was initially thinking a pulley syatem with the larger on the motor. Or do they have interchangable gears that maybe could be swapped to a faster pitch?Any other thoughts?

Based on the horsepower rating 0f 1/10, I'd guess that if you gear it up very much, you won't have enough torque to turn a loaded up mill. Geared as it is, the 113 in-lbs of torque is probably adequate. At 30 RPM, if you have a big enough hopper on your mill, you can load it up with your whole grain bill and turn it on. Then you can walk away and work on something else while it chews it up over the next 10 or 15 minutes.

[MyaCullen]

Based on the horsepower rating 0f 1/10, I'd guess that if you gear it up very much, you won't have enough torque to turn a loaded up mill. Geared as it is, the 113 in-lbs of torque is probably adequate. At 30 RPM, if you have a big enough hopper on your mill, you can load it up with your whole grain bill and turn it on. Then you can walk away and work on something else while it chews it up over the next 10 or 15 minutes.

The use it as is option does look like it would be best , giemn your thoughts on what gearing up would do. It's not like i have to haul ass when milling, lol, I'm just used to how quick a corded drill does that same job.I think I'll probably go with the spyder coupling option like with the Bodines.Would anyone know if this particular moor is gonna need a start cap?

[stellarbrew]

... your thoughts on what gearing up would do...

Power = Torque x Angular Velocity, P=TWYour power available from the motor is the same no matter how it's gearedSo, P=P1=P2, and (T1)(W1)=(T2)(W2)Thus, T2=(T1)(W1/W2)RPM=W(60)/(2 x Pi)Thus, T2=(T1)(RPM1/RPM2)So, for example, if you gear it to turn 200 rpm instead of 30 rpm, the torque, T2, will be as followsT2 = (113 in-lbs)(30/200) = 16.95 in-lbsYou can figure out the torque for any drive speed by plugging it in for RPM2 as aboveFor comparison, a 12-volt cordless drill will probably give you somewhere between 150 and 300 in-lbs of peak torque fully chargedI think you can intuit that the 16.95 in-lbs you will get when turning 200 rpm would be far from adequate to turn a mill

[BrewerGeorge]

Nothing wrong with taking a while - as long as you're not the one doing the cranking.Hard to tell if it needs a startup cap. But you can definitely get by without one by starting the motor unloaded. That is start up the motor without grain in the hopper, and add the grain after it's running.