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Motor for Grain Mill


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#1 Breakpoint

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Posted 12 December 2009 - 11:37 AM

I'm working on motorizing my grain mill and was wondering if anyone had any motor recommendations. I've looked for the beefy bodine motor, but can't find it at the links from this site: https://www.homebrew...e05010501.shtml and my searching the intertubes hasn't been successful. I'd like to avoid the pulley system and just have a direct drive gear motor.So, give me your thoughts (and preferably a site where I can find one).Thanks!

#2 Patrick C.

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Posted 12 December 2009 - 03:32 PM

No idea where to find one now, but I give a big +1 to a gear motor. Good luck! I've actually got a spare in my garage (never got to that project), but you're a little too far away to pick it up. :smilielol:

#3 AspenLeif

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 03:43 PM

I haven't hooked it up yet...but I salvaged a 1/2hp, variable speed DC motor out of an older style treadmill. I grabbed the analog slide speed control too. If you happen apon a treadmill and it's a digital readout...you can buy an aftermarket speedpot from radio shack or an electronic parts store.MB

#4 djinkc

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 04:22 PM

The Beefy Bodine was a great find. I guess some abandoned lot got discovered and sold through sciplus.com or one of those. I was lucky to get one. Any semi good deal is well worth it IMO. I'm well past paying off the mill and motor thanks to our LBG bulk grain buys. Yeah, spider couplings are great - what I use.I've looked recently and haven't seen much for buy and run with it motors lately.

#5 VolFan

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 05:13 PM

I know you said you prefer a direct drive, but the motor on this mill cart came from an old washing machine. Cost $10. Couple of sheaves and minus the mill itself, have about $50 in this. Works really good. Sheaves were sized for ~270 rpm.Posted ImagePosted Image

#6 Kansan

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 05:17 PM

Got a 1/2 hp cap start 1725rpm at Harbor freight for $60. It has been crunching up LBG grain like crazy. 1.75" - 12" sheaves spins at 256rpm. The motor is Chinese, but the build quality is nice and it is very quite.

#7 Kansan

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 05:58 PM

heres a couple of picsPosted ImagePosted Image

#8 RommelMagic

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 06:06 PM

heres a couple of picsPosted ImagePosted Image

Damn, I lost my glasses. Magnifying glasses that is. :)

#9 Kansan

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Posted 13 December 2009 - 06:08 PM

Damn, seemed to have forgot how to upload a pic...

#10 ChefLamont

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 08:00 AM

I also cant really add anything to the direct drive discussion because I went the belt and pulley route. One of the things I like best about belt and pulley where the belt is tensioned by the weight of the motor (1/2 HP Craftsman I had laying around) is that if the mill were to bind for any reason, the worst that happens is the belt gets chewed/burned up a little.

#11 Marmot

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 12:19 AM

The Beefy Bodine was a great find. I guess some abandoned lot got discovered and sold through sciplus.com or one of those. I was lucky to get one.

I think I got one of the last Beefy Bodines five years ago or so as they weren't for sale much longer after I purchased mine. I am glad I bought when I did so I didn't have to struggle with cobbling something together.Break - good luck on finding a motor!Marmot

#12 CaptRon

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 11:05 AM

I was wanting to find a direct drive motor as well. My Barley Crusher said to NOT use pulleys with it, I only assume because of the odd pull that would be put on the bushings or something. So I have been thinking about direct drive which would be like a drill.

#13 djinkc

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 01:32 PM

I don't know if this one has enough torque or not. And the speed is about half of what I have. When I bought the bodine I really didn't research it since some were already using it successfully and they were going to sell out fast......Anyway My link

#14 Breakpoint

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 06:29 PM

I don't know if this one has enough torque or not. And the speed is about half of what I have. When I bought the bodine I really didn't research it since some were already using it successfully and they were going to sell out fast......Anyway My link

yeah, that looks like a good motor - in other words, the price is right - but i don't know how that'll hold up. not exceptionally knowledgeable (i know absolutely nothing) about motors, but it appears like the RPMs are lower than most people who have DIY a direct drive motor to a grain mill. in particular, this guy's site says 150 RPMs would be ideal.thanks for all the input. i'll keep searching. grainger had a bunch of geared motors, but when i looked at something close in specs to the bodine, they were like $600 and i'm trying to do this on the cheap.

#15 Kansan

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 10:04 PM

I sure do feel that pulleys are a much safer way (at least for the mill), to drive. If worried about tension on the mill try using pillow blocks. I'll try again at posting, a little larger this time...Posted ImagePosted Image

#16 Kansan

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 10:12 PM

Hey I figured how to post LARGE!The second pic of the pillow blocks takes all the torque off the mill rollers. This way if some foreign material should happen to get in you hopper (ie, a bolt or rock, etc) the pulley will lock and the belt will spin, as opposed to the alternative...

#17 Breakpoint

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Posted 16 December 2009 - 03:00 PM

so, i found this motor and i think it might work. any comments/opinions?

#18 ChefLamont

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 05:04 AM

Hey I figured how to post LARGE!The second pic of the pillow blocks takes all the torque off the mill rollers. This way if some foreign material should happen to get in you hopper (ie, a bolt or rock, etc) the pulley will lock and the belt will spin, as opposed to the alternative...

That is a great idea. I have the pulley right on the mill shaft. It works just fine except you have to have the bucket right up against the pulley to catch all of the grain coming out of the mill. That setup gives some extra lateral room. Nice.

#19 xd_haze

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 06:39 AM

Pillow blocks add to the cost, but it is definitely the right way to do it.mike

#20 Stout_fan

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 06:46 AM

Pillow blocks add to the cost, but it is definitely the right way to do it.mike

IMHO,That would be two pillow blocks and a flex coupling.


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