phbt activate
#1
Posted 23 November 2009 - 09:17 PM
#2
Posted 24 November 2009 - 05:31 AM
#3
Posted 24 November 2009 - 05:43 AM
#4
Posted 24 November 2009 - 06:19 AM
#5
Posted 24 November 2009 - 11:35 AM
would you elaborate on that? why could i not, using the appropriate hardware, transfer cleaning/sanitizing solution from one of my cornies to his? why could i not, using the same hardware, transfer beer to one of my cornies to his?Unless you want your buddy drinking infected beer, you should not use sanke kegs for homebrew unless you have access to a commercial keg cleaner.
#6
Posted 24 November 2009 - 04:23 PM
#7
Posted 24 November 2009 - 05:42 PM
#8 *_Guest_MW2_*
Posted 24 November 2009 - 06:51 PM
Not really. You can build a home keg cleaner using a longer spray wand which will work just fine. Either that or just remove the spear which isn't that difficult and soak in pbw. Its a little harder cleaning that way, but not bad. Swag actually built a adapter for cleaning that attaches to the neck of the sanke using a sanitary fitting.Unless you want your buddy drinking infected beer, you should not use sanke kegs for homebrew unless you have access to a commercial keg cleaner.
This is what i use for serving out of sanke kegs. Heck, you might even be able to hook up a pump and spray pbw using these fittings as well.Also, it would probably be much much easier to configure his setup to accept corny kegs.https://www.northern...ce-1-4-mfl.htmlIf you put this on his sanke taps, it can accept a swivel nut just like the ones that screw onto the corny quick disconnects.
#9
Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:11 PM
And spray what? Hot water? Too bad water won't do a good job cleaning.I guess if you were able to hook up a powerful pump and run PBW through it that might work well. But without the proper tools, you're still just guessing at the cleanliness of your keg. And with removing the spear and soaking in PBW, that is not enough in most cases to do a good job of cleaning. It's far easier to just use corny kegs and configure the friend's kegerator to hook up to them.Using sanke kegs for homebrew kegging (or fermenting) is far more trouble than it's worth. You don't gain any benefit in using sanke kegs over corny kegs to justify the extra effort need to use them.Not really. You can build a home keg cleaner using a longer spray wand which will work just fine.
#10 *_Guest_MW2_*
Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:51 PM
Jeez Slainte, not to hard to realize that when a guy talks about using a keg cleaner with a longer wand on it there would actually be some type of cleaner used. Otherwise it would be called a keg sprayer. Fwiw, cleaning sankes is not hard. Might be for you, but for some of us sankes come in pretty handy besides cutting the top off and boiling stuff in them. But if someone does not want to go thru the trouble and build a versatile keg cleaner (mine has a union in it so different lengths/types of wands can be installed in seconds)and would rather clean any type of keg by hand, so be it. I did it for years. A good ol' sump pump like everyone else uses works wonders.....And spray what? Hot water? Too bad water won't do a good job cleaning.I guess if you were able to hook up a powerful pump and run PBW through it that might work well. But without the proper tools, you're still just guessing at the cleanliness of your keg. And with removing the spear and soaking in PBW, that is not enough in most cases to do a good job of cleaning. It's far easier to just use corny kegs and configure the friend's kegerator to hook up to them.Using sanke kegs for homebrew kegging (or fermenting) is far more trouble than it's worth. You don't gain any benefit in using sanke kegs over corny kegs to justify the extra effort need to use them.
#11
Posted 25 November 2009 - 09:19 AM
That is slick Kremer, what do you use for couplings to attach the posts? I am assuming it is leakproof or you wouldnt bother, so they must be pretty tight.This setup I rigged works really well, just use ball lock connectors.
#12
Posted 25 November 2009 - 09:30 AM
I actually used a hole saw and cut the posts out of a keg I got with a dent in the lid area that I couldn't fix enough to seal right. I sanded/ground the post piece so it would fit through the inside of the beer nut, then put the dip tube gasket and poppet in and cranked the ball lock post on top. The shoulder of the beer nut is basically sandwiched in the middle of the normal assembly of the keg post pieces. It was some work cutting and grinding the pieces but it was worth it, and cheaper than buying the adapter pieces, and it's a much more compact assembly.If you pull the plastic check valve parts out of the sankey coupler you can move liquid and gas any direction you want through the keg to clean it.That is slick Kremer, what do you use for couplings to attach the posts? I am assuming it is leakproof or you wouldnt bother, so they must be pretty tight.
#13
Posted 25 November 2009 - 09:46 AM
that's hot. i'm going to try that, or a variation thereof. thanks for the idea, kremer.I actually used a hole saw and cut the posts out of a keg I got with a dent in the lid area that I couldn't fix enough to seal right. I sanded/ground the post piece so it would fit through the inside of the beer nut, then put the dip tube gasket and poppet in and cranked the ball lock post on top. The shoulder of the beer nut is basically sandwiched in the middle of the normal assembly of the keg post pieces. It was some work cutting and grinding the pieces but it was worth it, and cheaper than buying the adapter pieces, and it's a much more compact assembly.If you pull the plastic check valve parts out of the sankey coupler you can move liquid and gas any direction you want through the keg to clean it.
#14
Posted 25 November 2009 - 10:35 AM
#15
Posted 25 November 2009 - 10:41 AM
#16
Posted 25 November 2009 - 11:15 AM
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