17 replies to this topic

[CaptRon]

So I am slowly but surely getting my Kegerator built. I have just put a peice of plywood in place of the glass. I need to put the CO2 tank on the outside of the fridge as it is now too tall to fit inside. So I know i have to drill a hold through the side of the fridge to run the CO2 supply line, do I just use like the expanding foam to seal around the hole to seal it up?Also, I am getting ready to start shopping for the faucets to have the taps on the outside of the door instead of using the messy picnic taps. I see that I have to buy shanks and that there are different sizes, how do I know what size to get? I think the shank is a piece to go through the hole through the door so it has to be the right length for the fridge door right? So how do I know which are the right parts?Thanks a ton homies!!

[kbhale]

A 4" shank should work for you. https://morebeer.com...rd_Beer_FaucetsYou'll need a one inch hole saw to drill the holes for the shanks to go through the door. Post a pix when your done with you kegerator.Cheerskbhale

[chuck_d]

All the shanks have the same diameter I believe, but they come in different lengths. My recommendation is to use the longest ones you think you can get away with. The extra metal acts as a heatsink, dropping the temp of the faucet slightly. This means there's less breakout on the first pour due to the beer running through a room-temp faucet when you haven't used the tap since yesterday. The first pour of the night I usually dump the first ounce into a bowl I leave next to my kegerator, but that's partly because I built new lines recently and the diameter of 3/16" ID line from morebeer is actually bigger than the diameter of the 3/16" beer line I got from micromatic, so my lines are too short for this new beer line and hence my tap system isn't balanced. Rather than dealing with excessively long lines I think I might just upgrade to flow control faucets in the near future and move my current faucets onto a jockey box I am building for my boy's wedding.

[Stout_fan]

All the shanks have the same diameter I believe, but they come in different lengths. My recommendation is to use the longest ones you think you can get away with. The extra metal acts as a heatsink, dropping the temp of the faucet slightly. This means there's less breakout on the first pour due to the beer running through a room-temp faucet when you haven't used the tap since yesterday. ...

exactly!

[kbhale]

Also make sure your beer tubing is at least 6-8 foot long to start with you can cut it down to get the pour you want. If you start to short you'll end up with too much foam. There are system tuning links. I don't have one. Maybe someone can post one. I make a lot of Rye / Wheat so I keep my lines a little longer.

[CaptRon]

Good grief, this stuff is expensive. I was hoping to get four taps hooked up, but it looks like i have to save some Dinero for a while to be able to afford it.

[tag]

I have found that a 7/8" hole saw makes a nice snug fit. And save your $ for "forward-seal" faucets.

[Kremer]

I have found that a 7/8" hole saw makes a nice snug fit.

+1 to that, it was perfect. you could always punch the holes you need in the fridge, then plug them back up and install faucets as the funds are available.

[CaptRon]

+1 to that, it was perfect. you could always punch the holes you need in the fridge, then plug them back up and install faucets as the funds are available.

What should I use to plug them with? And as far as sealing around the CO2 supply line that I need to drill out for in the side of the fridge, I was thinking about expanding foam or something like that???

[Kremer]

I would just stuff the piece of insulation back in that you cut out of it and cover with tape. Or for a more professional look you could get some appropriate rubber stoppers or something from a hardware store.

[DubbelEntendre]

What should I use to plug them with? And as far as sealing around the CO2 supply line that I need to drill out for in the side of the fridge, I was thinking about expanding foam or something like that???

I used the rubber grommets from my mash tun conversions for my gas lines and some expandable duct work sealant for my temperature probe. Both seal very nicely and have held up.

[JReigle]

What should I use to plug them with? And as far as sealing around the CO2 supply line that I need to drill out for in the side of the fridge, I was thinking about expanding foam or something like that???

I wouldn't drill any holes you don't need right now, but you can plug them with foam and white duct tape (assuming the fridge is white). Put a small piece of tape on the inside of the hole, shoot foam in from the outside, cut the foam flush and cover it with more tape on the outside to keep the foam covered. As for the Co2 supply hole, I would make it fit the tubing as snugly as possible so you don't need to use the foam, just a dab of silicone sealant where the side of the tubing meets the edge of the hole.I still haven't gotten up the nerve to drill in the side of the fridge, I'm afraid of hitting refrigerant lines.

[CaptRon]

I still haven't gotten up the nerve to drill in the side of the fridge, I'm afraid of hitting refrigerant lines.

eek, Really? I didn't think there were any refrigerant lines on the sides, I thought they were all on the back of the fridge. Now you got me trippin on that. I can't think of any other way to get the Co2 line in there though as the tank wont fit in there now after I put the plywood down - 20# tank and all.

[stellarbrew]

I drilled a hole in the side of my fridge with the same diameter as the OD of the CO2 line going through it. It fills it up perfectly with no need to use any sealing foam or tape. I prefer having my CO2 tank outside the fridge because then the gauge reads correctly at ambient temperature. The tank side gauge is useless if your tank is in the fridge because it will always read low.

[JReigle]

eek, Really? I didn't think there were any refrigerant lines on the sides, I thought they were all on the back of the fridge. Now you got me trippin on that. I can't think of any other way to get the Co2 line in there though as the tank wont fit in there now after I put the plywood down - 20# tank and all.

Well, I've seen reports that lines could exist pretty much everywhere except the door. I'm not sure if the baking soda/alcohol trick would work on a fridge or if that's more specific to the smaller Sanyos where the walls are thinner... I guess it also depends on what you have. I'd love to hear from anyone who has done this.If (when) I also do this, I'll probably start with a tiny exploratory hole (just pierce the skin) near the edge about a foot up from the bottom, put a nail in and see if I can feel out the plastic from the inside wall of the fridge. But even this could pierce a line. I just know that I'd be beyond pissed if I killed my nice fridge.

[chuck_d]

I'm not sure if the baking soda/alcohol trick would work on a fridge or if that's more specific to the smaller Sanyos where the walls are thinner...

I thought it was corn starch, not baking soda. I've never done it though, and perhaps they both work.

[pods8]

Good grief, this stuff is expensive. I was hoping to get four taps hooked up, but it looks like i have to save some Dinero for a while to be able to afford it.

Yeah I hear ya. I got a few pennies in mine over the years: converted chest freezer that holds 10 kegs, four co2 taps with a dual co2 regulator for serving/carbing, and a fifth tap for beer gas and corresponding tank/reg...

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

I thought it was corn starch, not baking soda. I've never done it though, and perhaps they both work.

The correct answer here is corn starch and alcohol.