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aeration/oxygenation of wort


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#21 ER Pemberton

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 01:32 PM

9 FEET?



#22 denny

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 01:33 PM

9 FEET?

 

REALLY!


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#23 drez77

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 02:46 PM

REALLY!


Garage to cellar.
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#24 pkrone

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 04:47 PM

I think he meant " not '.   heh    :D

 

I use a stone and O2 tank every time.  Some for yeast health, but some for making sure any residual sulfites are used up.    I've had a couple of fart bomb beers with this Low O2 thing and it wasn't pretty.   :P


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#25 pickle_rick

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Posted 19 October 2018 - 04:50 PM

9 FEET?

 

that's what I said!

 

REALLY!

 

fo realz.

 

Garage to cellar.

 

correct.


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#26 ER Pemberton

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 06:30 AM

I think he meant " not '.   heh    :D

 

I use a stone and O2 tank every time.  Some for yeast health, but some for making sure any residual sulfites are used up.    I've had a couple of fart bomb beers with this Low O2 thing and it wasn't pretty.   :P

Tell me about it.  My first one was like that.  I went to take a sample and...

 

2ufc6ld.jpg



#27 pickle_rick

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Posted 20 October 2018 - 07:34 AM

where is the extra sulfur coming from?  the campden tablets?


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#28 pkrone

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Posted 22 October 2018 - 05:46 PM

where is the extra sulfur coming from?  the campden tablets?

 

 

Pretty much.   I use straight sodium metabisulfite.


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#29 pickle_rick

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Posted 23 October 2018 - 04:28 AM

Pretty much.   I use straight sodium metabisulfite.

 

are campden tablets not that?


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#30 drez77

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Posted 23 October 2018 - 04:39 AM

are campden tablets not that?

For lodo when measuring out the amounts powdered NaMeta makes it easier.

Eta campden could also be potassium.

Edited by drez77, 23 October 2018 - 04:41 AM.

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#31 BarefootBrews

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Posted 24 October 2018 - 10:22 PM

As homebrewers we all want to make good beers.  An understanding of metabolic processes and life cycle of yeast is important to an extent.  Oxygen is critical to yeast; too much can increase lag time (yeast will uptake oxygen in solution before beginning fermentation phase of their life cycle); too little oxygen can result in not enough nutrient to finish out the fermentation.  Be consistent in your procedures.   Take good notes along the way.  Every step of the process.  Learn how those little yeast work in the environment that you provide for them.  Manipulate the environment you give to them to your desires.  But most importantly, learn how they (yeast) work in the environment you give them.


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#32 pickle_rick

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 12:29 PM

so I suspect i'm nearly out of O2 in my tank.  I can turn the flow rate way up and I still only get a little fizz out of the stone.  I'm guessing my next brew will finish off that tank.  I'm a little scared to make the following brew which will likely be a highish gravity lager.  do you non-oxygenators also not do it for lagers?


I used to use a Mix Stir on every batch.  Now that I use a pump I just let the wort splash into the fermenter.  It's important to understand why you aerate and what happens.  The yeast uses the O2 to synthesize sterols, which keep cell walls flexible and encourage budding.  If you pitch proper amounts of healthy yeast, you reduce the need for cell growth, which in turn reduces the need for O2.

 

denny, are you using the 007 starter method?  for me that would usually mean making a 2-3L starter about 24 hours before pitching into ~10 gallons of wort.

 

drez - same question?  I'm pretty sure you are.  made any big lagers with it along with no O2?


Edited by pickle_rick, 05 January 2019 - 12:31 PM.

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#33 Bklmt2000

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:01 PM

so I suspect i'm nearly out of O2 in my tank.  I can turn the flow rate way up and I still only get a little fizz out of the stone.  I'm guessing my next brew will finish off that tank.  I'm a little scared to make the following brew which will likely be a highish gravity lager.  do you non-oxygenators also not do it for lagers?


 

denny, are you using the 007 starter method?  for me that would usually mean making a 2-3L starter about 24 hours before pitching into ~10 gallons of wort.

 

drez - same question?  I'm pretty sure you are.  made any big lagers with it along with no O2?

 

Not speaking for denny or drez, but I've made several high-grav lagers in the past where I didn't aerate, but I did pitch a very fresh slurry (harvested a couple of days prior to brewday).  (In one case, my aeration wand broke in a pre-brewday mishap).

 

Resulting beers all turned out well.

 

YMMV, but in my experience, the fresher the yeast, the less necessary it is to oxygenate/aerate before pitching.  This is assuming that the yeast viability is good/strong, and that you are pitching enough of said yeast for the batch volume in question.


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#34 pickle_rick

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:08 PM

Not speaking for denny or drez, but I've made several high-grav lagers in the past where I didn't aerate, but I did pitch a very fresh slurry (harvested a couple of days prior to brewday).  (In one case, my aeration wand broke in a pre-brewday mishap).

 

Resulting beers all turned out well.

 

YMMV, but in my experience, the fresher the yeast, the less necessary it is to oxygenate/aerate before pitching.  This is assuming that the yeast viability is good/strong, and that you are pitching enough of said yeast for the batch volume in question.

 

maybe a couple of rounds of starters then?  or maybe I should make a helles or something similar first?  mmmmmm - lager.


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#35 Bklmt2000

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:14 PM

maybe a couple of rounds of starters then?  or maybe I should make a helles or something similar first?  mmmmmm - lager.

 

I'd go the helles or some other lower-to-moderate grav lager first.

 

Once fermented, harvest that yeast, let it settle out a couple of days in the fridge (I think this gives you a chance to visually inspect the yeast, get good yeast/liquid separation, etc., before using it again).

 

Then on brewday, decant (I leave only enough liquid to make the yeast pourable), and then dump into the primary.


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#36 pickle_rick

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:29 PM

I'd go the helles or some other lower-to-moderate grav lager first.

 

Once fermented, harvest that yeast, let it settle out a couple of days in the fridge (I think this gives you a chance to visually inspect the yeast, get good yeast/liquid separation, etc., before using it again).

 

Then on brewday, decant (I leave only enough liquid to make the yeast pourable), and then dump into the primary.

 

typically when I harvest yeast I try to use it pretty much immediately.  like within a day or two.  I can't say I've ever inspected it :-/


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#37 Bklmt2000

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:33 PM

typically when I harvest yeast I try to use it pretty much immediately.  like within a day or two.  I can't say I've ever inspected it :-/

 

By inspect, I mean just a quick look-at to see if the yeast is settling out ok, if the wort looks ok, that sort of thing.

 

I've harvested yeast in the past where a day or 2 later I'd want to use it, but looking at it, I could tell something was off, so it got dumped.


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#38 pickle_rick

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:36 PM

By inspect, I mean just a quick look-at to see if the yeast is settling out ok, if the wort looks ok, that sort of thing.

 

I've harvested yeast in the past where a day or 2 later I'd want to use it, but looking at it, I could tell something was off, so it got dumped.

 

what kind of things would you see?


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#39 drez77

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:36 PM

No oxygenation here for years. I have done 5g batches of lager with just 1l of 007 starter with out issues. Just my experience.
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#40 pickle_rick

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Posted 05 January 2019 - 01:37 PM

No oxygenation here for years. I have done 5g batches of lager with just 1l of 007 starter with out issues. Just my experience.

 

all data points are useful.  :cheers:


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