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Old Man Ale


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#1 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 October 2009 - 08:50 AM

Old Man Ale5 Gallon BatchFERMENTABLES:14.0lbs Maris Otter 0.1lbs Chocolate 0.5lbs Special B (150L) 0.5lbs Black Treacle (add towards end of boil)mash @ 150FHOPS:1.2oz Magnum for 60 min2.0oz EKG for 10 minYEAST:Scottish Ale 1728 (hence the slightly lowish mash temp)SPECS:SRM: 20OG: 1.08FG: 1.022 (hoping I can hit the high end of the attenuation which I managed to do the last time I used this yeast)IBU: 54Should I consider a 90 min boil for this or is 60 min good? Any other thoughts? I know the chocolate might seem a little strange but I noticed that Jamil used some black patent so that gave me the idea to use something along those lines to even out the caramel. I happen to have some milled chocolate I want to use up so I figured why not.

#2 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 October 2009 - 02:30 PM

I should also mention that I plan to bottle this batch for long term aging. I'll probably skip secondary and go straight from 3-4 weeks in primary to bottling.

#3 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 10 October 2009 - 03:02 PM

Should I consider secondary and cold crashing or is this a waste and risk of dropping out too much yeast?

#4 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 05:31 AM

why do I feel like I'm talking to myself here :facepalm:

#5 Jimmy James

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 01:00 PM

Not familiar with that yeast since it's White Labs stuff at my LHBS. If it's a highly flocculent strain then probably there's no need to cold crash. If it tends to stay in suspension then crashing out the majority of the yeast might not be a bad thing. After just 3 to 4 weeks there will be plenty of yeast around still to carb up the bottles. I am thinking of more or less the same process for my upcoming Old Ale which I didn't get time to brew this weekend. After 6 months in the bottle they should be carbonated regardless. Your recipe looks great. The chocolate should play well in there.

I should also mention that I plan to bottle this batch for long term aging. I'll probably skip secondary and go straight from 3-4 weeks in primary to bottling.



#6 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 03:42 PM

Not familiar with that yeast since it's White Labs stuff at my LHBS. If it's a highly flocculent strain then probably there's no need to cold crash. If it tends to stay in suspension then crashing out the majority of the yeast might not be a bad thing. After just 3 to 4 weeks there will be plenty of yeast around still to carb up the bottles. I am thinking of more or less the same process for my upcoming Old Ale which I didn't get time to brew this weekend. After 6 months in the bottle they should be carbonated regardless. Your recipe looks great. The chocolate should play well in there.

Flocculation is high. I'm a little bit concerned about the 73% attenuation but on my current 80 shilling I was almost right at 73% so hopefully with a little bit of swirling I can pull that off again. description:

Ideally suited for Scottish-style ales, and high-gravity ales of all types. Can be estery with warm fermentation temperatures. Origin: Flocculation: high Attenuation: 69-73% Temperature Range: 55-75° F (13-24° C) Alcohol Tolerance: approximately 12% ABV



#7 Jimmy James

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 08:41 PM

Looks like a good critter for the job. At 12% ABV tolerance you should be ok. I can get higher attenuation than the published range for "normal" gravity fermentations if pitching a good sized starter and temperature control. Not with that yeast per se, but with many of the strains I've used. I don't know how the labs determine the attenuation range but I would guess they use some standard extract-based wort to approximate most homebrewing, and they probably let it ferment out without temp control. So, 73% may well be possible with that high gravity wort but it is probably asking a bit of the yeast so I understand the concern.

Flocculation is high. I'm a little bit concerned about the 73% attenuation but on my current 80 shilling I was almost right at 73% so hopefully with a little bit of swirling I can pull that off again. description:



#8 MyaCullen

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Posted 11 October 2009 - 09:53 PM

Old Man Ale 5 Gallon Batch FERMENTABLES: 14.0lbs Maris Otter 0.1lbs Chocolate 0.5lbs Special B (150L) 0.5lbs Black Treacle (add towards end of boil) mash @ 150F HOPS: 1.2oz Magnum for 60 min 2.0oz EKG for 10 min YEAST: Scottish Ale 1728 (hence the slightly lowish mash temp) SPECS: SRM: 20 OG: 1.08 FG: 1.022 (hoping I can hit the high end of the attenuation which I managed to do the last time I used this yeast) IBU: 54 Should I consider a 90 min boil for this or is 60 min good? Any other thoughts? I know the chocolate might seem a little strange but I noticed that Jamil used some black patent so that gave me the idea to use something along those lines to even out the caramel. I happen to have some milled chocolate I want to use up so I figured why not.

that's agood lookinf ale IMO. I think the 3-4 weeks in primary should do fine especially if you are going to go into bottle for long term aging, and they high gravity beers need all the help they can get to carb.

#9 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 12 October 2009 - 05:05 AM

that's agood lookinf ale IMO. I think the 3-4 weeks in primary should do fine especially if you are going to go into bottle for long term aging, and they high gravity beers need all the help they can get to carb.

This is what I would think too but I was listening to Jamil's old ale podcast and he was talking about cold crashing out the yeast and how there it takes almost no yeast to get the job done etc. The thing I'd like to avoid is an extreme layer of sediment on the bottom of the bottle. In the past I've done 3 week fermentations and then bottled and ended up with a pretty serious (1/4-1/2") of crud in the bottom of the bottle. I'd like to keep it to less than 1/8" if possible this time around so I don't have to waste precious beer when pouring.

#10 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 09:39 AM

I just want to make sure I'm not way off - is 1.022 going to seem cloying in a beer like this? I've been second guessing my yeast strain choice for this beer for the last couple of days and considering using S-04 instead (brewing on Friday I think). It's a shame to let my yeast starter go to waste though and I really like the 1728 in my 80 shilling.

#11 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:39 PM

I just want to make sure I'm not way off - is 1.022 going to seem cloying in a beer like this? I've been second guessing my yeast strain choice for this beer for the last couple of days and considering using S-04 instead (brewing on Friday I think). It's a shame to let my yeast starter go to waste though and I really like the 1728 in my 80 shilling.

any thoughts gang? I could also hold off on this beer until I get a yeast better suited to it and just make some kind of scottish ale this weekend :P

#12 Thirsty

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:53 PM

any thoughts gang? I could also hold off on this beer until I get a yeast better suited to it and just make some kind of scottish ale this weekend :P

I used 04 for my old ale I made a few mos back, By my notes I started it at .089, and it finished up at .022. I fermented it cool at 64 deg. I get nothing cloying from it, so if you take a .080 down to .022 with the yeast you want, you should enjoy it.

#13 3rd party JKor

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:21 AM

I'm planning an Old Ale-based Winter Warmer coming up pretty soon. I'm debating over the yeast strains as well. I was originally going to go with WLP002 because I wanted to started baking that strain for my English style ales, but I don't know if the attenuation is going to be high enough for a 1090 beer. Maybe the WLP007 would be a better choice, but I don't know if that one will be too attenuative.Has anyone used the WLP007?

#14 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:28 AM

I'm planning an Old Ale-based Winter Warmer coming up pretty soon. I'm debating over the yeast strains as well. I was originally going to go with WLP002 because I wanted to started baking that strain for my English style ales, but I don't know if the attenuation is going to be high enough for a 1090 beer. Maybe the WLP007 would be a better choice, but I don't know if that one will be too attenuative. Has anyone used the WLP007?

My current plan is to use Wyeast 1028 London Ale (73-77% attenuation). How low do you want the FG to be?

#15 3rd party JKor

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:42 AM

My current plan is to use Wyeast 1028 London Ale (73-77% attenuation). How low do you want the FG to be?

Around 20, probably. I just don't want to get caught with a 1.025+ FG. I'm thinking I might go with the WLP007. I've read some good reviews on it.

#16 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 08:48 AM

Around 20, probably. I just don't want to get caught with a 1.025+ FG. I'm thinking I might go with the WLP007. I've read some good reviews on it.

if you can push it towards the high end of the attenuation it seems like it shouldn't be a problem.

#17 drewseslu

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 11:32 AM

I'm planning an Old Ale-based Winter Warmer coming up pretty soon. I'm debating over the yeast strains as well. I was originally going to go with WLP002 because I wanted to started baking that strain for my English style ales, but I don't know if the attenuation is going to be high enough for a 1090 beer. Maybe the WLP007 would be a better choice, but I don't know if that one will be too attenuative. Has anyone used the WLP007?

WL007 is a powerful fermenter, but it does leave plenty of body intact. I brewed a Fresh Hop American Strong Ale with it, from an OG of 1.074 it reached 8% in 3-4 days and was ready to drink in a month and left behind plenty of body, even at 80% AA. If you are concerned, mash over 150 and you'll be fine.

#18 3rd party JKor

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Posted 02 November 2009 - 12:57 PM

WL007 is a powerful fermenter, but it does leave plenty of body intact. I brewed a Fresh Hop American Strong Ale with it, from an OG of 1.074 it reached 8% in 3-4 days and was ready to drink in a month and left behind plenty of body, even at 80% AA. If you are concerned, mash over 150 and you'll be fine.

Yeah, as I think about it, the combination of high attenuation and mashing around 153 might be the way to go here. I'm going to do the Mild with it first, so at least I can get a little bit of a feel for the strain before I really put it to work. I might go up towards 156-158 with the Mild for fear of it being too dry.

Edited by JKoravos, 02 November 2009 - 12:58 PM.


#19 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 01:32 PM

So I'm going to probably brew this recipe in about a week from now using 1318 for yeast. My current hopping schedule looks like this:1.3oz magnum for 60min1.5oz EKG for 10minI'm still open to feedback on everything :D

#20 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 01:44 PM

So I'm going to probably brew this recipe in about a week from now using 1318 for yeast. My current hopping schedule looks like this: 1.3oz magnum for 60min 1.5oz EKG for 10min I'm still open to feedback on everything :D

I actually also decided to up the mash temp to 152F.


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