46 replies to this topic

[denny]

I could use your suggestions for a cheap pump, I'm looking to add this to my system soon.Thanks!

There is no such thing as a cheap pump! The March 809 is the standard. I bought one recently and by the time I got the high temp tubing and fittings, total cost was right around $200.

[CarlosM]

get a good reliable thermometer, because I just screwed up my mash temps and got a stuck fermentation.

[3rd party JKor]

There is no such thing as a cheap pump! The March 809 is the standard. I bought one recently and by the time I got the high temp tubing and fittings, total cost was right around $200.

If you keep your eye on eBay, you can get a suitable mag drive pump for ~$50.https://cgi.ebay.com...=item3a532c6248

Edited by JKoravos, 09 October 2009 - 12:51 PM.

[shmgeggie]

It's not essential, 'cause you can do all the calculations by hand, but some brewing software would be helpful as well. I'm pretty sure there's a thread dedicated to brewing software around here somewhere. I just use the free Java version of Strangebrew.As I've mentioned before, you don't have to spend hardly anything to begin playing. I already had 2x five gallon pots and a cooler for camping. A trip to Lowe's for an SS braided hose and some high temp tubing and I was off and running. I didn't even bother to modify the cooler, so I can still use if for camping. I just siphon over the top of the cooler. Since I have a very chilly water supply and do split boils, I still cool in the sink. If I want to do something high gravity, I don't have any problem topping off with DME. Total investment going to AG -> less than $10. Results have been excellent. YMMV. I like brewing in the kitchen, so I don't really feel any need to upgrade my equipment. If I did, I'd get a bigger brew pot so I can do a full boil with one pot, plus an immersion chiller, since it'd take to long to cool 5 gallons in the sink. I'll bet that there are a lot of people out there who gave up on a 1/2 completed brew sculpture without ever even trying an AG batch. Forget the toys, just brew. Unless you're really into building stuff; in which case, have fun with your tinkering.

[Stout_fan]

BBM,Go 13.5 gal batches and do keggles. Cheapest way! Don't sweat boil-overs, never been a problem, but then I use foam control.Grab a 70 qt cooler now at Wally world before they put them all away.The Colman extreme with channel drain was designed for a braid, I swear!

Edited by Stout_fan, 09 October 2009 - 04:50 PM.

[3rd party JKor]

Nothing wrong with batch sparging, especially if you're just trying to get your system off the ground quickly. Once all the other stuff is working how you want it, you can revisit sparging technique.

[Deerslyr]

Well you boys certainly didn't disappoint. I've got some thinking to do. I'm sure Basser will have a stroke, but I think I'm gonna start out batch sparging. lolThanks for all the advice.

Batch sparging is an easy way to avoid needing a pump and can have killer efficiencies.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Batch sparging is an easy way to avoid needing a pump and can have killer efficiencies.

unless he can gravity feed some stuff he MAY want a pump just due to the large volumes of water. I know just pouring 4 gallons of hot hot water into my mash tun makes me a little nervous. I've burnt my hand a couple of times pouring water over my thumb (I'm too dumb to wear gloves or use some towels).

[3rd party JKor]

Batch sparging is an easy way to avoid needing a pump and can have killer efficiencies.

How does it avoid needing a pump?

[Deerslyr]

unless he can gravity feed some stuff he MAY want a pump just due to the large volumes of water. I know just pouring 4 gallons of hot hot water into my mash tun makes me a little nervous. I've burnt my hand a couple of times pouring water over my thumb (I'm too dumb to wear gloves or use some towels).

Well, when I batch sparged, I would use a Gallon Pitcher and pour in one gallon at a time. Only takes a few minutes and the beer never suffered from it. I would also do my sparges in thirds. First I would drain the mash, add half the sparge water, drain that, and then add the remaining sparge water. I do have a bulkhead and valve on my HLT, so it pours into the pitcher. I would never risk trying to lift 4 gallons. But either way you cut it a pump does make it easier. It is, however, possible to do it without building a pump or building a tier system to utilize gravity. I know some like to only do one batch, but as I've previously stated on the board, there is no issu with splitting your sparge. I suppose if you wanted to use my "pitcher" method, you could sparge the entire amount at once without risk of burns.But I love my pump.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Well, when I batch sparged, I would use a Gallon Pitcher and pour in one gallon at a time. Only takes a few minutes and the beer never suffered from it. I would also do my sparges in thirds. First I would drain the mash, add half the sparge water, drain that, and then add the remaining sparge water. I do have a bulkhead and valve on my HLT, so it pours into the pitcher. I would never risk trying to lift 4 gallons. But either way you cut it a pump does make it easier. It is, however, possible to do it without building a pump or building a tier system to utilize gravity. I know some like to only do one batch, but as I've previously stated on the board, there is no issu with splitting your sparge. I suppose if you wanted to use my "pitcher" method, you could sparge the entire amount at once without risk of burns.But I love my pump.

That's true - I should probably do that for the larger amounts...

[shmgeggie]

unless he can gravity feed some stuff he MAY want a pump just due to the large volumes of water. I know just pouring 4 gallons of hot hot water into my mash tun makes me a little nervous. I've burnt my hand a couple of times pouring water over my thumb (I'm too dumb to wear gloves or use some towels).

I ladle the water from HLT to mash tun with a sauce-pan and only pour when the pot is light enough to handle.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

What are the advantages and disadvantages of rectangular vs round mash tuns?

tall skinny ones you get more grain bed depth but shorter rectangular seems easier to clean out and stuff. Since you are making large batches I'd just go with whatever you feel like b/c grain bed depth will never be a problem for you. There MAY be some advantage to round for fly sparging but since I don't do that I'm not really sure.

[siouxbrewer]

IIRC an ideal MT is proportional in height x width in order to extract more sugars from the grain bed. Maybe some of you fluid dynamics guys can chime in as the science of such matters is above my head FWIW my ideal MT is a converted sankey keg because it is what I have and it was free. I used a square copper manifold for a couple years and just recently converted to a SS false bottom because a guy in our guild is making them for dirt cheap. I think the manifold does as good of a job for fly sparging as the FB but lacks the bling effect SS has on our egos

[Sidney Porter]

Grain bed depth come into play when fly sparging, too shallow is bad, smaller batches is where you can have an issue. The 10 gallon gott, the 48qt ice cube, the converted sankey are all popular because of this. The same size rectangular could have issues with small beers and small batch size.For batch sparing this isn't an issue within reason.I say within reason because I don't know ehat would happen if you tried to brew a 5 gallon mild in a 100qt cooler.The difference is rinsing the grain in fly sparging, while you are gwtting the sugars in solution and draining when batch sparging.

[Stout_fan]

Round allows a false bottom with no dead zones, so fly sparging works and nets a higher efficiency (in theory).Rectangular coolers have dead spots and then need batch sparging which is just a controlled dilution of sugars.If you didn't batch on one of these then your efficiencies would really be in the toilet.Personally, I view batch sparging as a foolproof method for idiots like me: You can't over sparge.

[djinkc]

.......Rectangular coolers have dead spots and then need batch sparging which is just a controlled dilution of sugars............If you didn't batch on one of these then your efficiencies would really be in the toilet..

Nah, mine works great with a manifold when flying. If you follow Palmer's advice on manifold design you should be golden.

[beach]

...Rectangular coolers have dead spots and then need batch sparging which is just a controlled dilution of sugars.If you didn't batch on one of these then your efficiencies would really be in the toilet....

Nah, mine works great with a manifold when flying. If you follow Palmer's advice on manifold design you should be golden.

+1 dj. I have a simple gheto 3-tier setup. Gas fired HLT (the top is at ~5'6"), flows into my MLT through a fly sparging mainifold in the lid of a 48 qt rectangular igloo cooler and drains usung a copper manifold (per Palmer's spec's), into my gas fired keggle/bkI end up with a well drained grain bed with no channeling and 78% efficiency All cheap and easy (DIY) and no pumpBeach