46 replies to this topic

[beach]

oops, too late to edit my last post...I've done from 5-10 gallon batches in my MTL up to 1.080 SG with no probs, any bigger and you'll want a larger cooler.more of my .02Beach

[Deerslyr]

Round allows a false bottom with no dead zones, so fly sparging works and nets a higher efficiency (in theory).Rectangular coolers have dead spots and then need batch sparging which is just a controlled dilution of sugars.If you didn't batch on one of these then your efficiencies would really be in the toilet.Personally, I view batch sparging as a foolproof method for idiots like me: You can't over sparge.

Not true. I have a 48 qt rectangular with a cpvc manifold. I fly sparge and get efficiencies between 75% and 78%. I don't think anyone here would say that efficiency is in the toilet.

[denny]

Personally, I view batch sparging as a foolproof method for idiots like me: You can't over sparge.

Well, you can, but you've got to be more of an idiot than either you or I are!

[Stout_fan]

Well, you can, but you've got to be more of an idiot than either you or I are!

HA!Thanks for the positive image reinforcement there Denny! :sarcasm:Deerslayer, Beach and DJ, I stand corrected. Perhaps toilet was the wrong descriptor. OK, no perhaps... it was. Sorry 'bout that.I guess what I SHOULD be saying is based upon John's fluid dynamics explanation is that you still have dead zones or zones of reduced flow. Fluids do not go up hill or transfer laterally unless pushed by other wort on top of it. Theoretically a false bottom will have a higher efficiency as all fluid flow is straight down. Dang, where is John when you need him?Now I seem to remember we had a long battle on manifold vs. braid construction and efficiencies were argued. I don't want to be a troll here so I'm not going to continue the debate. Next thing we'll have a big dust up over extract and AG!Efficiency varies with gravity, unless you do reduction boils. So to effectively test all this out we'd have to do extensive tests on the same recipe in different tuns. Personally I'd just rather brew a different beer. That's why this is a hobby I guess. At the quantities we brew adding a pound of grain is no big deal. When you're making 1200 gallons, 5% efficiency can determine if you have a job next month.In the end, use what you are happy with. I use a braid because I knocked a manifold apart on a club brew. Let's just say I wasn't a popular guy that day. It was also easier to build. I batch, cause that's one less thing to hassle with. And my brew day generally has enough other problems.And never forget the axiom: "In practice, theory never holds up."

Edited by Stout_fan, 16 October 2009 - 06:41 AM.

[CaptRon]

3. Boil Kettle15 gallon keggle with a bazooka screen. (Got the Keggle for free, bazooka screen was around $18. You may be be able to get a keggle for around $50 - $60 if you look for it. Top was cut off and a hole for the drain was done by a welder for a case of Blonde Ale.)

I think I need to add a screen to my SABCO keggle. In your opinion does it help a ton with the crap that goes in to the fermentor?

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

Not true. I have a 48 qt rectangular with a cpvc manifold. I fly sparge and get efficiencies between 75% and 78%. I don't think anyone here would say that efficiency is in the toilet.

Same here.

[ChicagoWaterGuy]

I think I need to add a screen to my SABCO keggle. In your opinion does it help a ton with the crap that goes in to the fermentor?

I started using whirlflock during the boil and a autosiphon to transfer wort to fermenters. My first carboy is 99% trub free and the second carboy gets minimal trub. I really like doing it this way.