72 replies to this topic

[dondewey]

I got a distribution block from mcmaster (cheap) and the fuse holders from an electric supply place in Northampton. I don't know if I've seen integral ones.

[stellarbrew]

Maybe try Grainger.

[stangbat]

Anyone have an idea of where I can get a distribution block (preferably with integrated fuse holders) that I can use to split my #6 legs down to two #10 feeds for my heating elements?I was at Lowe's tonight and didn't see anything.

A local electrical supply had blocks like that here in KC. So maybe check locally if McMaster or Grainger doesn't have what you need. I was considering something like this before I decided to put a sub panel on my rig. In the end, the sub panel seemed easier to set up and wire.

[3rd party JKor]

I'll try a local electrical supply place. I'd like to get the control box wired up this weekend, so I need to get this tomorrow. McMaster has plaenty of stuff that will work, ,but I'd have to wait until Tuesday for it to come. I'm impatient.

[HVB]

I'll try a local electrical supply place. I'd like to get the control box wired up this weekend, so I need to get this tomorrow. McMaster has plaenty of stuff that will work, ,but I'd have to wait until Tuesday for it to come. I'm impatient.

Are you looking for a permanent solution or just some way to get through the weekend brew day?

[3rd party JKor]

Are you looking for a permanent solution or just some way to get through the weekend brew day?

Permanent. Once it's installed, I probably won't replace it, so even if I get something temporary it will end up being permanent.

[3rd party JKor]

Was a busy day, I didn't get a chance to go out and get something. Maybe HD will have something. They seem to have a better selection than Lowe's.Here's my wiring diagram for the HERMS control part of the system.

[3rd party JKor]

Turns out buying distribution blocks, fuse holders and fuses is going to cost a crapload more than I expected, like >$100. I may just feed another load center with the 50A GFI and split the branches for the two heating elements and the 120V source in there, then run them to the control box. It'll probably cost less than half than going with the other stuff from McMaster.

[BrewerGeorge]

Do you have any interest in maintaining code? I don't, but then mine isn't hardwired to a distribution panel; I just unplug it when not in use. I only ask because I know there are code rules about distribution and fusing that you may want to look into if you are interested in staying in code. (I don't know the specifics myself.)

[3rd party JKor]

I'm worried about safety and preventing catastrophic failure. Code is nice, but certainly not required to for meeting those goals.My rig isn't hard wired, it's plug in. I am using standard panels on the rig, but they aren't permanent to the structure.

[stangbat]

This all looks and sounds surprisingly familiar. Memories...

[stellarbrew]

Was a busy day, I didn't get a chance to go out and get something. Maybe HD will have something. They seem to have a better selection than Lowe's.Here's my wiring diagram for the HERMS control part of the system.

JK, could you answer a question for a dumb mechanical guy? Why do you show a 25 amp fuse in each leg going to the heater? It seems to me that each leg would have to carry the full 50 amp capacity, since the current is across the two legs. Where is my thought process screwed up?Edit: Doh, never mind. I see now that the heater is just 5.5 KW, and should only draw about 23 amps. The 50 amp breaker must be to allow for the control power too.

Edited by stellarbrew, 13 October 2009 - 12:45 PM.

[3rd party JKor]

JK, could you answer a question for a dumb mechanical guy? Why do you show a 25 amp fuse in each leg going to the heater? It seems to me that each leg would have to carry the full 50 amp capacity, since the current is across the two legs. Where is my thought process screwed up?Edit: Doh, never mind. I see now that the heater is just 5.5 KW, and should only draw about 23 amps. The 50 amp breaker must be to allow for the control power too.

The reason I sized the breaker for 50A is so it could run another element in the future. In the drawing (although it doesn't say it) I'm splitting the #6 incoming wire down to #10 wire for the heater. Typically, #10 wire would be able to carry up to 30A safely, but since the the heater is a resistive load it should never go above 23A, so I sized the fuse at 25A. Everything else that is being powered from the control box probably amounts to a total of 2A, so I can probably get away with about 9,000 watts of heating power before I hit 80% of the breaker capacity, which is the limit according to code. Realistically, I could probably get away with two 5500W elements, since they would almost never be running at the same time.