26 replies to this topic

[dagomike]

I'm rushing a batch of beer to serve it next week. I was going to add gelatin to knock down the yeast, then transfer to another keg. I was looking but instructions are all over the place and I can't remember what I've done before. 1 TB of Knox should do it right?

[Deerslyr]

I'm rushing a batch of beer to serve it next week. I was going to add gelatin to knock down the yeast, then transfer to another keg. I was looking but instructions are all over the place and I can't remember what I've done before. 1 TB of Knox should do it right?

I used an entire packet once to no ill effect. You are force carbing anyways, so it shouldn't make a difference, right?

[CaptRon]

I don't do much to get extra clear beer. I just accept that sometimes I don't get the clearest beer in the world, but it is still good beer. I don't get complaints either.Somehow my RIS ended up being the clearest yet and I didn't do anything special to it.

[MtnBrewer]

This is going from memory....The key thing is not to boil the gelatin. You put it in hot water (160ish, iirc) and let it sit for an hour. Then add it to the beer and stir. Rack off the precipitate a day or two later.

[dagomike]

I used an entire packet once to no ill effect. You are force carbing anyways, so it shouldn't make a difference, right?

My memory is that the packets are large. Maybe they're not and I'll just use the whole thing then.

I don't do much to get extra clear beer. I just accept that sometimes I don't get the clearest beer in the world, but it is still good beer. I don't get complaints either.Somehow my RIS ended up being the clearest yet and I didn't do anything special to it.

I'm pretty sure the yeast aren't going to drop out in 6 days.

This is going from memory....The key thing is not to boil the gelatin. You put it in hot water (160ish, iirc) and let it sit for an hour. Then add it to the beer and stir. Rack off the precipitate a day or two later.

Yeah... I was thinking of boiling water, cool it down, add and bloom. Maybe chill it, add it, and warm it back up to let it bloom. I've done this a few times and it worked well, just don't really remember. Definitely didn't boil though. I know that much.I'm kegging tonight, let it chill, then add the gelatin tomorrow, shake it up, then I'll rack to a new keg this weekend.

[Big Nake]

Mike: I put a tbsp or so into COLD water first so the gel granules can "bloom". Leave it there for 5-10 mins and then put the solution (and maybe a little extra water) into a pot and begin to heat it. You can get it close to boiling w/o a problem... just look for the granules to be dissolved... it should be all liquid. Then I usually put a lid on that and let it cool, send that into the secondary and rack the beer on top. Works like a charm and you can probably use as much as you like... I don't even measure, I just eyeball it. Cheers.

[Dave]

I heat water to 160*, pour in about 1/2 a packet, stir, let bloom for about 15 minutes, pour in chilled keg, force carb, beer is clear 1-2 days later...

[dagomike]

Chill the beer first or doesn't it matter? Gel doesn't work on protein-tannins, or does it?

[Big Nake]

Mike: I have noticed that as I go through my "clarity" steps, that if I use Whirfloc in the boil, allow the brewpot to settle, rack clear wort from brewpot to primary and then use gel in the secondary, tannin-protein interaction (chill haze) is a non-issue. I think that all of those steps cuts down on the interaction between tannins & proteins and eliminates chill haze. I used to use polyclar/divergan for that but it's no longer necessary. I also allow the force-carbed kegs to sit in the 35° fridge for a few weeks before they are served too, so that has something to do with it and I realize you don't have that kind of time in this case. Also, you don't have to chill the beer first but the gel does work well if the beer is cold. Good luck.

[Deerslyr]

Mike: I put a tbsp or so into COLD water first so the gel granules can "bloom". Leave it there for 5-10 mins and then put the solution (and maybe a little extra water) into a pot and begin to heat it. You can get it close to boiling w/o a problem... just look for the granules to be dissolved... it should be all liquid. Then I usually put a lid on that and let it cool, send that into the secondary and rack the beer on top. Works like a charm and you can probably use as much as you like... I don't even measure, I just eyeball it. Cheers.

Ken, I usually pour it onto the beer under the impression that it is heavier and will fall down to the bottom, collecting the undesirables on the way. If you put it in and then rack on top, don't you have to stir it?

[MtnBrewer]

Chill the beer first or doesn't it matter? Gel doesn't work on protein-tannins, or does it?

It helps to chill the beer first if it has chill haze.

[Big Nake]

Ken, I usually pour it onto the beer under the impression that it is heavier and will fall down to the bottom, collecting the undesirables on the way. If you put it in and then rack on top, don't you have to stir it?

DS: If I pour it in first, it mixes well and then settles. I have heard of people who pour it on top of the beer already in the secondary which I think would be fine. This is how I have always done it and it seems to work. One other issue is that most of the packaging for gel has NO instructions on it. I assume suppliers buy it in bulk, repack it and don't include any instructions. Many different procesudres have been in books, on the web, whatever and most people just do it the way that works best. Cheers.

[dagomike]

It helps to chill the beer first if it has chill haze.

Right, but that's a tannin-protein issue... As I understand, gel doesn't affect that. Or maybe it does. If it doesn't, then I'm not seeing a reason to chill, that's all.

[MtnBrewer]

Right, but that's a tannin-protein issue... As I understand, gel doesn't affect that. Or maybe it does. If it doesn't, then I'm not seeing a reason to chill, that's all.

That's the main reason to use gelatin as far as I know.

[JReigle]

Right, but that's a tannin-protein issue... As I understand, gel doesn't affect that. Or maybe it does. If it doesn't, then I'm not seeing a reason to chill, that's all.

Actually, I thought gelatin was one of the few things that does impact and reduce chill haze. If you add the mixture once the protein has "set" as a haze (e.g. you chilled it), the gelatin helps it fall out very readily.

[stellarbrew]

I've never used gelatin before, but I had read or heard that since gelatin is positively charged, it does help to precipitate the tannin-protein comination that causes chill haze.

[Sidney Porter]

i use a 1/2 packet of knox per 5 gallons. I add it to a pint of cold water allow it ot bloom. Heat to 170. Pour into chilled keg. 4 days later the beer is clear. It seems to work on yeast and chill haze.all of my dip tubes are cut about an inch. I do not rack off ofthe gellitin. prior to cutting I once sucked up some gellitin and it clogged the popit.

[dagomike]

Hmm.. I'll have to read tonight. Now I think of it, tannins and proteins are negative/positive. Can't remember which though, but you need two treatments to hit them both. I thought yeast was negative though and gel is positive charged.

[MtnBrewer]

Hmm.. I'll have to read tonight. Now I think of it, tannins and proteins are negative/positive. Can't remember which though, but you need two treatments to hit them both. I thought yeast was negative though and gel is positive charged.

One is negative and the other is positive but I don't remember which is which either. But you don't need to treat both; remove either one and WIN! Gelatin removes the proteins (that much I do remember). Polyclar (just one example) is charged the other way and removes polyphenols. I'm not sure how effective either one is at removing yeast.

[dagomike]

Gelatin removes the proteins (that much I do remember).

Well, then proteins are negative. So then it makes sense to chill first then treat.