gelatin
#1
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:28 AM
#2
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:33 AM
I used an entire packet once to no ill effect. You are force carbing anyways, so it shouldn't make a difference, right?I'm rushing a batch of beer to serve it next week. I was going to add gelatin to knock down the yeast, then transfer to another keg. I was looking but instructions are all over the place and I can't remember what I've done before. 1 TB of Knox should do it right?
#3
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:37 AM
#4
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:38 AM
#5
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:45 AM
My memory is that the packets are large. Maybe they're not and I'll just use the whole thing then.I used an entire packet once to no ill effect. You are force carbing anyways, so it shouldn't make a difference, right?
I'm pretty sure the yeast aren't going to drop out in 6 days.I don't do much to get extra clear beer. I just accept that sometimes I don't get the clearest beer in the world, but it is still good beer. I don't get complaints either.Somehow my RIS ended up being the clearest yet and I didn't do anything special to it.
Yeah... I was thinking of boiling water, cool it down, add and bloom. Maybe chill it, add it, and warm it back up to let it bloom. I've done this a few times and it worked well, just don't really remember. Definitely didn't boil though. I know that much.I'm kegging tonight, let it chill, then add the gelatin tomorrow, shake it up, then I'll rack to a new keg this weekend.This is going from memory....The key thing is not to boil the gelatin. You put it in hot water (160ish, iirc) and let it sit for an hour. Then add it to the beer and stir. Rack off the precipitate a day or two later.
#6
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:46 AM
#7
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:52 AM
#8
Posted 07 April 2009 - 10:54 AM
#9
Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:06 AM
#10
Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:35 AM
Ken, I usually pour it onto the beer under the impression that it is heavier and will fall down to the bottom, collecting the undesirables on the way. If you put it in and then rack on top, don't you have to stir it?Mike: I put a tbsp or so into COLD water first so the gel granules can "bloom". Leave it there for 5-10 mins and then put the solution (and maybe a little extra water) into a pot and begin to heat it. You can get it close to boiling w/o a problem... just look for the granules to be dissolved... it should be all liquid. Then I usually put a lid on that and let it cool, send that into the secondary and rack the beer on top. Works like a charm and you can probably use as much as you like... I don't even measure, I just eyeball it. Cheers.
#11
Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:36 AM
It helps to chill the beer first if it has chill haze.Chill the beer first or doesn't it matter? Gel doesn't work on protein-tannins, or does it?
#12
Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:44 AM
DS: If I pour it in first, it mixes well and then settles. I have heard of people who pour it on top of the beer already in the secondary which I think would be fine. This is how I have always done it and it seems to work. One other issue is that most of the packaging for gel has NO instructions on it. I assume suppliers buy it in bulk, repack it and don't include any instructions. Many different procesudres have been in books, on the web, whatever and most people just do it the way that works best. Cheers.Ken, I usually pour it onto the beer under the impression that it is heavier and will fall down to the bottom, collecting the undesirables on the way. If you put it in and then rack on top, don't you have to stir it?
#13
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:18 PM
Right, but that's a tannin-protein issue... As I understand, gel doesn't affect that. Or maybe it does. If it doesn't, then I'm not seeing a reason to chill, that's all.It helps to chill the beer first if it has chill haze.
#14
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:23 PM
That's the main reason to use gelatin as far as I know.Right, but that's a tannin-protein issue... As I understand, gel doesn't affect that. Or maybe it does. If it doesn't, then I'm not seeing a reason to chill, that's all.
#15
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:24 PM
Actually, I thought gelatin was one of the few things that does impact and reduce chill haze. If you add the mixture once the protein has "set" as a haze (e.g. you chilled it), the gelatin helps it fall out very readily.Right, but that's a tannin-protein issue... As I understand, gel doesn't affect that. Or maybe it does. If it doesn't, then I'm not seeing a reason to chill, that's all.
#16
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:32 PM
#17
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:38 PM
#18
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:38 PM
#19
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:42 PM
One is negative and the other is positive but I don't remember which is which either. But you don't need to treat both; remove either one and WIN! Gelatin removes the proteins (that much I do remember). Polyclar (just one example) is charged the other way and removes polyphenols. I'm not sure how effective either one is at removing yeast.Hmm.. I'll have to read tonight. Now I think of it, tannins and proteins are negative/positive. Can't remember which though, but you need two treatments to hit them both. I thought yeast was negative though and gel is positive charged.
#20
Posted 07 April 2009 - 12:50 PM
Well, then proteins are negative. So then it makes sense to chill first then treat.Gelatin removes the proteins (that much I do remember).
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