Trub Removal?
#1
Posted 15 September 2009 - 08:26 PM
#2
Posted 15 September 2009 - 08:33 PM
#3
Posted 15 September 2009 - 09:04 PM
LOL...yep. Don't forget to take out the chiller first.Or maybe all my problems could be solved by simply whirlpooling after I chill the wort?
#4
Posted 16 September 2009 - 04:19 AM
IIRC the ROT is to get your wort to 140°F in less than 10 minutes.Naturally this really depends upon the malt type and boil time.But like I said it's a ROT....Will letting the hot wort sit for 10-20 minutes (whirlpooling) allow too much DMS to develop?...
#5
Posted 16 September 2009 - 09:38 AM
#6
Posted 16 September 2009 - 10:04 AM
#7
Posted 16 September 2009 - 10:33 AM
#8
Posted 16 September 2009 - 01:07 PM
#9
Posted 16 September 2009 - 01:18 PM
#10
Posted 16 September 2009 - 02:07 PM
I will say right now that chilling is one of the things I look forward to the least. I really don't like it. The IC is clunky and awkward, you need to constantly stir, I'm always concerned about a gust of wind blowing nastiness into the brewpot, etc. Baddog, maybe you could invent something that would rid us all of this tiresome chore!This has me thinking that there could be something very simple devised that is like a lid that you can put on your brewpot that has notches for the IC to stick out of, but has a motor on top, a stem and stir paddle that you could just turn on during the chilling so it did the whirlpooling for you. I did the whirlpool thing last time I brewed and I quickly got tired of stirring the wort (Yep, I'm that lazy sometimes )
#11
Posted 16 September 2009 - 02:48 PM
#12
Posted 16 September 2009 - 03:07 PM
Yes, but it's worth it. The way around it is to waste a great deal of time and water while you keep the lid on without stirring. My tap water is 81 degrees so once the wort is down to about 85 or so (open stirring of 5.5+ gals of wort with the immersion cooler in place), I transfer to a carboy that I immerse in ice water. I then stir until the wort is down to 68 to 72 degrees.When you guys stir during the chilling, do you worry about the pot being uncovered? Any way around this?
#13
Posted 16 September 2009 - 04:32 PM
#14
Posted 16 September 2009 - 05:34 PM
#15
Posted 16 September 2009 - 05:47 PM
#16
Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:32 PM
#17 *_Guest_Matt C_*
Posted 17 September 2009 - 07:08 PM
Ken,I know you have mentioned greg noonan before,but I always used whirlfloc in the boil with 10 min left,but I never realized the importance in keeping all that gunk out of the fermenter until reading his book.(excellent read by the way). According to that book, he states that excessive trub can cause off flavors. Since I have been doing a lot of single and double malt beers with a clean finishing lager yeast, there is no room for off-flavors to hide. Anyways,I have found that stirring makes no differnce for me because I just siphon down all of the clear wort until I get to the sludge and toss that junk. It has really cleared my final beers to pristine brilliance Of course you need a decent cold lagering.I would recommend Whirfloc or Supermoss if you have access to it. These products have been described as Irish Moss on steroids and they work MUCH better at getting things to settle. After the boil I will use my IC and stir constantly... it takes about 10 minutes to get the wort from boiling down to around 70° or so (depending on the season). Because I'm stirring, the wort is whirlpooled and a cone forms. Then I usually place the brewpot in an ice bath for 20-30 minutes to get the temp lower and to allow things to settle further. Then I rack from brewpot to primary getting about 4 gallons of ultra-clear wort before I begin to suck up some of the particulate in the brewpot. Some of that lands in a strainer on top of the primary and some gets through to the primary. It will all settle out later in secondary anyway. Good luck & cheers.
#18
Posted 17 September 2009 - 08:04 PM
#19 *_Guest_Matt C_*
Posted 23 September 2009 - 05:38 PM
yes,siphoning off of the "Schputz®" as you call it,has resulted in the clearest beer I have ever made before...and I have been repitching the same lager yeast as well.(no need to waste ALL that good slurry!) It is as clear as any commercial beer I've ever seen no question,with no filtering of course. Just cold lagering,whirlfoc, and kettle siphoning.Works great!Matt: Yeah, it does seem to make a difference and if you were to make some gold lagers, you need all the help you can get to keep things clean. My guess is that keeping all of that stuff out of the brewpot has a number of benefits... your yeast sample will be cleaner if you decide to reuse it, the beer will be cleaner looking and possibly cleaner-tasting, and I think that getting all of that stuff to settle out will reduce chill haze too. My hunch is that most of the Schputz® at the bottom of the brewpot is hops and some of it is break material, but if tannins and proteins cause chill haze by reacting, I wonder of getting the clearest possible wort into the brewpot would greatly reduce the chance of hazy beer. I'm not a scientist, clearly... just a brewer! Cheers!
#20
Posted 23 September 2009 - 06:38 PM
Agreed. I think that the resulting beer is cleaner, clearer and just better. The harvested yeast usually looks very white and smooth, with no chunks in it. I agree, I have had some brilliantly clear beers using this method and once you make it part of your normal process, it doesn't seem like that much extra work. Cheers!yes,siphoning off of the "Schputz®" as you call it,has resulted in the clearest beer I have ever made before...and I have been repitching the same lager yeast as well.(no need to waste ALL that good slurry!) It is as clear as any commercial beer I've ever seen no question,with no filtering of course. Just cold lagering,whirlfoc, and kettle siphoning.Works great!
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