New Mash Tun...
#1
Posted 01 September 2009 - 07:15 AM
#2
Posted 01 September 2009 - 07:32 AM
do you have a picture?So I've upgraded my mash tun from a 5-gal circular igloo to a igloo max cold 60 qt cube. I've really been limited size wise by the 5-gal one so I picked up a new one last week. But I have a concern about the drain on this cooler.It doesn't sit on the bottom of the cooler. The way the bottom of the cooler is shaped is that it's flat on the bottom and then it comes up at an angle. Where this angled part of the cooler bottom meets the wall is where the drain is located. What this means is that the SS braid won't likely sit flush against the bottom of the cooler and even if it does, the wort would have to travel up to the drain to leave the tun.So my question is will this work and work well or should I just search for a flat bottomed cooler? Does anyone use this cooler and have pros/cons?
#3
Posted 01 September 2009 - 07:35 AM
#4
Posted 01 September 2009 - 07:57 AM
#6
Posted 01 September 2009 - 07:59 AM
try it now...sorry about that! I have no idea how to load links or pics onto the board...correct - the link also doesn't work
#7
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:04 AM
#8
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:11 AM
I batch sparge. What do you mean pickup tube?That's what I'm thinking....It should work for batch sparging. You'll need to make a pickup tube to get whatever you strain with on the bottom. And it wouldn't work well for fly.Personally, I would return it and get something with a flat bottom
#9
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:11 AM
I agree. When you install the valve/bulkhead make sure on the inside, your plumbing dips down to the bottom of the cooler and attach the braided hose there. The tun will drain to the level of your pickup tube. GRAVITY BE DAMNED!!!It should work for batch sparging. You'll need to make a pickup tube to get whatever you strain with on the bottom. And it wouldn't work well for fly.Personally, I would return it and get something with a flat bottom
#10
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:18 AM
When your plumbing goes through the cooler, you need to add a fitting on the inside that will dip down to the bottom of the cooler. So, if you use one of the cooler bulkheads, you will have a female thread on the inside. Add an angle that drops the drain to the bottom of the cooler. The cooler will drain to whatever level the tube/pipe goes to.I batch sparge. What do you mean pickup tube?That's what I'm thinking....
#11
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:29 AM
What you are essentially doing is creating a siphon. The liquid has to go from the bottom of the cooler UP to the level of the drain hole and then down to the kettle. By saying you need a dip tube, we are saying that you need a tube of some sort that is air tight so when you are draining and the level of the liquid gets below the drain hole, the siphon will be maintained and drain all the way to the bottom of the cooler. If it is not airtight, the siphon will break and you will only drain to the point where the siphon is broken (presumable the drain hole). You will also have to be careful to design it so the dip tube/manifold/braid/whatever stays on the bottom of the cooler for the same reason.I batch sparge. What do you mean pickup tube?That's what I'm thinking....
#12
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:33 AM
#13
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:44 AM
#14
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:54 AM
This is not necessary. A pickup tube to a manifold is easy to do. I know the OP is batch sparging, but with a minimal amount of effort he could be set up for fly sparging as well. The pickup and manifold can be made of either CPVC or copper, doesn't really matter. I use CPVC. My tube comes out about 2 inches from the wall where it hits a 90 degree fitting. Then it runs about an inch to a "t" fitting that is on the manifold. Here is how I don't have to worry about the length... the pickup tube is not glued to the "t" fitting or the tube coming out. The portion of the manifold that the "t" is on is not glued in either. It allows me to swivel the "t" to come and meet up with the pickup tube without having to make any precise measurements. The fit is tight enough that it doesn't break the siphon. I've got a buddy who just built a new tun out of the same as the OP. I know he made a manifold out of copper. It IS possible to make a great tun (with excellent capacity) out of this cooler.Maybe you could drill a new drain hole in the side of the cooler, where the bottom of the cooler is at it's lowest. Then you could put a bulkead fitting throught the hole, and directly attach your braid right at the bottom of the cooler, with no need of a siphon tube. Of course, that would be of no help if the bottom slopes up at the sides, as well as the ends.
#15
Posted 01 September 2009 - 08:56 AM
Damn! If I had known youtube would do my soldering for me, I would have not burned my fingers on a few projects! I have the hardest time with soldering, but I had a couple of projects for my system that required copper. The welds, for the most part, look like a third grader did them, but in the end it gets the job done.I just youtubed soldering and it worked like a charm.
#16
Posted 01 September 2009 - 09:05 AM
#17
Posted 01 September 2009 - 09:10 AM
#18
Posted 01 September 2009 - 09:27 AM
I disagree... somewhat.I built my tun with a manifold suitable for fly sparging, but for almost the first year did batch sparging. I was hitting efficiencies in the range of 75 to 80 percent. But the work was "brutal". I knew that ultimately I wanted to buy a pump and fly sparge... and this is what I have done. I now have a pump attached to a float switch that allows me to fly sparge. If I wanted to, now that I think of it, I could just as easily batch sparge on the same system, which I may try next time. My efficiencies with fly sparging have also been at the 75% plus range. If you use the typical ss braid to batch sparge, you will likely not be able to use that system for fly sparging. But with a little bit of effort, a manifold created for fly sparging will also work with batch sparging.If you are already batch sparging, there is no good reason to change to fly sparge. To avoid the long argument about it, I will say "and vice versa".
#19
Posted 01 September 2009 - 10:13 AM
I have heard people comment on the extra work of batch sparging before. I don't get it. I know you have to lift a kettle of water 3-4 times during the brewing process, but for a 5 gallon batch, I never have to lift more than three gallons of water at one time. That's 25 pounds of water. I am no Lou Ferrigno, but that is not that much weight. My sparge rounds are usually ~2 gallons (16 lbs). Is there something else I am missing, or is it just the lifting of the kettle?I disagree... somewhat.I built my tun with a manifold suitable for fly sparging, but for almost the first year did batch sparging. I was hitting efficiencies in the range of 75 to 80 percent. But the work was "brutal". I knew that ultimately I wanted to buy a pump and fly sparge... and this is what I have done. I now have a pump attached to a float switch that allows me to fly sparge. If I wanted to, now that I think of it, I could just as easily batch sparge on the same system, which I may try next time. My efficiencies with fly sparging have also been at the 75% plus range. If you use the typical ss braid to batch sparge, you will likely not be able to use that system for fly sparging. But with a little bit of effort, a manifold created for fly sparging will also work with batch sparging.
#20
Posted 01 September 2009 - 10:14 AM
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