18 replies to this topic

[chuck_d]

I'm helping a buddy of mine build out his homebrewery now that he's moved into a bigger apartment before I leave for school. MB is currently out of stock of the SS QDs that I use with my 1/2" silicone hose for connecting my MLT, kettle, plate chiller and other various brewhouse equipment. Mcmaster has what appears to be the same thing, but they list the alloy as type 303 SS, but I'm really only familiar with type 304 and the less corrosive 316 alloys. Just working on the number I assume that 303 is less resistant to corrosion than 304 since 304 is less resistant than 316, but I figured I'd ask the folks here since I know there are people that know their metals far better than I.Here are the QDs I'm talking about: https://www.mcmaster...115/282/=3diijyThe QDs I picked up from MB back in the day don't list the type of SS, but they very well could be 303 as well.https://morebeer.com...uick_DisconnectThanks.Edit: Oh, look at that, MB does list it as type 304 on that page. Some of the QD pages don't list the type, or maybe they updated the page. Oh heck, they are in stock now too. Two days ago they said that they were out of stock without knowing when they would be back (showed as on back order). Still, I would like to know about the mcmaster QDs and 303 SS.

Edited by chuck_d, 27 August 2009 - 02:57 PM.

[djinkc]

I used to know this stuff better.... 304 should be fine. The brass ones I'm using are holding up well.https://www.bosunsup...inlessinfo2.cfm

[NWPines]

Doesn't answer your question, but if you're not averse to using brass, here's another much less expensive option. I use these QD's on my system and have been really happy with them, they work great.https://www.mcmaster...6739k59/=3cisvkhttps://www.mcmaster...6739k64/=3cit8e

[djinkc]

Doesn't answer your question, but if you're not averse to using brass, here's another much less expensive option. I use these QD's on my system and have been really happy with them, they work great.https://www.mcmaster...6739k59/=3cisvkhttps://www.mcmaster...6739k64/=3cit8e

Same as mine, tip of the hat to George.......

[tag]

I believe that I asked John Palmer that question a while back and he said that 303 was fine.

[djinkc]

I believe that I asked John Palmer that question a while back and he said that 303 was fine.

I'm fairly certain most kegs are 304 or 303.......... So there you go.

[chuck_d]

Good looks guys. I personally prefer not to use brass because I like to have all the metals in my brewery easily treated by the same chemicals, so I try to standardize on SS. The only copper I have is in my chillers. My friend is just trying to mimic my setup, I even pointed him toward the polysulfone QDs when I saw th SS were out of stock a few days ago.

[Thirsty]

I even pointed him toward the polysulfone QDs when I saw th SS were out of stock a few days ago.

I have these on everything and I am really starting to get sick of them. Thgey are nice because you do not burn your fingers everytime you touch them, however the o-rings are very delicate, and I replace 2-3 per brewday as needed. You either have to keep them keg lubed up, or they stretch when connecting/discon I have been thinking about switching all out for brass or SS

[RommelMagic]

I have these on everything and I am really starting to get sick of them. Thgey are nice because you do not burn your fingers everytime you touch them, however the o-rings are very delicate, and I replace 2-3 per brewday as needed. You either have to keep them keg lubed up, or they stretch when connecting/discon I have been thinking about switching all out for brass or SS

I have those too and got pretty sick of them (the polys). Never had a problem with the rings myself, but I always seemed to have problems with the QDs, and was always afraid I'd drop them and have them crack or some shiite. So I switched to brass, pickled them and am quite happy. At this point, I don't really see the need for me to spring for SS. For me it's more "bling" (kinda) than necessary. I use the same cleaning regimen with the SS and brass anyway. But, to each their own...

Edited by RommelMagic, 27 August 2009 - 06:30 PM.

[davelew]

Mcmaster has what appears to be the same thing, but they list the alloy as type 303 SS, but I'm really only familiar with type 304 and the less corrosive 316 alloys. Just working on the number I assume that 303 is less resistant to corrosion than 304 since 304 is less resistant than 316, but I figured I'd ask the folks here since I know there are people that know their metals far better than I.

303 is absolutely fine for beer, and any stainless is overkill as far as corrosion protection. 303 is much easier to cut than than 304, and MUCH, MUCH, MUCH easier to cut than 316, so if the QDs have any post-machining on them, the 303 is likely to be cheaper. 304 and 302 are pretty much identical. Also, higher numbers don't always mean better corrosion resistance; 416 and 440 will corrode slightly faster than 302, 303, 304 or 316.

[SWAGMAN]

For some reason I like the Tri'-clovers never wear out and never leak Dominus VobiscumSwagman

[chuck_d]

He's into the SS QDs, since that's what I bought back in the day, but good to know the dislikes of folks that use polysulfone. I guess it's good for me since then any spare parts we have will work on each other's systems.

303 is absolutely fine for beer, and any stainless is overkill as far as corrosion protection. 303 is much easier to cut than than 304, and MUCH, MUCH, MUCH easier to cut than 316, so if the QDs have any post-machining on them, the 303 is likely to be cheaper. 304 and 302 are pretty much identical. Also, higher numbers don't always mean better corrosion resistance; 416 and 440 will corrode slightly faster than 302, 303, 304 or 316.

So a follow up question. Do the numbers basically refer to hardness then? Higher numbers = harder = more difficult to cut? I know there is another "series" of SS that is used for most household stuff called 18-8 (I'm currently in this section in vol 3 of the MBAA practical handbooks, so maybe it's answered later in the section). Are the 4xx types another "series" apart from the 3xx types? I'm just getting overly greedy with my curiosity now.

[NWPines]

For some reason I like the Tri'-clovers never wear out and never leak

Yeah, rub it in Swag, rub it in. In an ideal world my setup would be all stainless too, and all tri-clovers. Based on the feedback I've seen, you have MANY happy customers, and I assure you..... I covet your clovers..... is that weird?But, price is an issue and the brass QDs are the best bang for the buck for me right now.By the way, my cleaning/sanitizing regimen (PBW and star san) would be no different with all SS vs brass.

[SWAGMAN]

Here is more information of types of SS than you probably wanted know.300 Series—austenitic chromium-nickel alloys Type 301—highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Good weldability. Better wear resistance and fatigue strength than 304.Type 302—same corrosion resistance as 304, with slightly higher strength due to additional carbon.Type 303—free machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur and phosphorus. Also referred to as "A1" in accordance with ISO 3506.[6]Type 304—the most common grade; the classic 18/8 stainless steel. Also referred to as "A2" in accordance with ISO 3506.[6]Type 304L—same as the 304 grade but contains less carbon to increase weldability. Is slightly weaker than 304.Type 304LN—same as 304L, but also nitrogen is added to obtain a much higher yield and tensile strength than 304L.Type 308—used as the filler metal when welding 304Type 309—better temperature resistance than 304, also sometimes used as filler metal when welding dissimilar steels, along with inconel.Type 316—the second most common grade (after 304); for food and surgical stainless steel uses; alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. It is also known as marine grade stainless steel due to its increased resistance to chloride corrosion compared to type 304. 316 is often used for building nuclear reprocessing plants. 316L is an extra low carbon grade of 316, generally used in stainless steel watches and marine applications due to its high resistance to corrosion. Also referred to as "A4" in accordance with ISO 3506.[6] 316Ti includes titanium for heat resistance, therefore it is used in flexible chimney liners.Type 321—similar to 304 but lower risk of weld decay due to addition of titanium. See also 347 with addition of niobium for desensitization during welding.400 Series—ferritic and martensitic chromium alloys Type 405—ferritic for welding applicationsType 408—heat-resistant; poor corrosion resistance; 11% chromium, 8% nickel.Type 409—cheapest type; used for automobile exhausts; ferritic (iron/chromium only).Type 410—martensitic (high-strength iron/chromium). Wear-resistant, but less corrosion-resistant.Type 416—easy to machine due to additional sulfurType 420—Cutlery Grade martensitic; similar to the Brearley's original rustless steel. Excellent polishability.Type 430—decorative, e.g., for automotive trim; ferritic. Good formability, but with reduced temperature and corrosion resistance.Type 439—ferritic grade, a higher grade version of 409 used for catalytic converter exhaust sections. Increased chromium for improved high temperature corrosion/oxidation resistance.Type 440—a higher grade of cutlery steel, with more carbon, allowing for much better edge retention when properly heat-treated. It can be hardened to approximately Rockwell 58 hardness, making it one of the hardest stainless steels. Due to its toughness and relatively low cost, most display-only and replica swords or knives are made of 440 stainless. Available in four grades: 440A, 440B, 440C, and the uncommon 440F (free machinable). 440A, having the least amount of carbon in it, is the most stain-resistant; 440C, having the most, is the strongest and is usually considered more desirable in knifemaking than 440A, except for diving or other salt-water applications.Type 446—For elevated temperature serviceThere are a few more but get this down test tomorrow.304 is a standard and 303 is great to work with on the lathe I call it the butter stainless and 316 is used a lot in the food circleHope this helpsDominus VobiscumSwagman

[chuck_d]

Awesome SWAGMAN! I haven't read it entirely yet, but I am starting to now. Thanks!

[Kremer]

cut n paste from the Wiki Swag ?https://en.wikipedia...Stainless_steel

[SWAGMAN]

cut n paste from the Wiki Swag ?https://en.wikipedia...Stainless_steel

Yep and its just the fact's. Like my grandpa said never be afraid to open a book or in this case punch a few keys. At my age I don't trust my memory. God BlessSwagman

[davelew]

some more information:There are only five stainless steels I generally use:303 (cheap, easy to machine)304 (easier to weld than 303)316 (really easy to weld)416 (fairly hard, easy to machine)440C (can get really hard with the proper heat treatment, basically a stainless replacement for tool steel)You asked about 18-8. That's a different designation from the 300 and 400 numbers. 18-8 is usually pretty close to 304, but has wider tolerances in the percentages of alloying elements. Other common designations in that format are 17-4 (or 17-4PH) and 18-10. 17-4 is harder than the 300 series and more corrosion resistant than the 400 series. 18-10 is like 300-series, but weaker and cheaper with about the same corrosion resistance.

[chuck_d]

This is why I love you guys.