14 replies to this topic

[wengared]

we had a discussion a while back and I can't find the link to it, it was suggested at times to make a all grain beer around O.G. 1.050, pitch your yeast and then later beef it up with DME, how does this work? and my seond question, has anyone dealt with this company? prices are great compared to what i'm paying and free shipping:https://dmemart.com/

[japh]

Dissolve in a small amount of water, boil to get break, and add it in.

[MtnBrewer]

Dissolve in a small amount of water, boil to get break, and add it in.

Minus the break of course.

[CaptRon]

What is the purpose of doing this if you can do all grain to begin with?

[JReigle]

What is the purpose of doing this if you can do all grain to begin with?

+1 It's not clear why you would add it later to "beef it up" it when you could simply use more malt to begin with in you recipe, or just add the DME to the boil as a late addition as to not affect your IBUs too greatly.

[wengared]

this was mentioned to insure you have good fermentation at a lower O.G. then "beef" it up later, in high gravity beers. it was an idea that i wanted to come back and investigate. BTW, has anybody dealt with this company?

[JReigle]

this was mentioned to insure you have good fermentation at a lower O.G. then "beef" it up later, in high gravity beers. it was an idea that i wanted to come back and investigate. BTW, has anybody dealt with this company?

How would that ensure you a good fermentation? I guess I don't understand what you're trying to avoid or achieve. Sorry if I'm missing something obvious.FWIW, dmemart.com has existed for just over 6 months, so probably not too many people have experience with them.

[MtnBrewer]

How would that ensure you a good fermentation? I guess I don't understand what you're trying to avoid or achieve. Sorry if I'm missing something obvious.

I'm not entirely sure what the goal is either. I think the "good fermentation" comment was related to doing a fairly low OG fermentation and then adding more fermentables later to minimize stress on the yeast. But I'm just guessing. I do a lot of tripels this way. I start with a wort in the 60's to 70's and add sugar (not DME) in the middle of fermentation.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

I'm not entirely sure what the goal is either. I think the "good fermentation" comment was related to doing a fairly low OG fermentation and then adding more fermentables later to minimize stress on the yeast. But I'm just guessing. I do a lot of tripels this way. I start with a wort in the 60's to 70's and add sugar (not DME) in the middle of fermentation.

isn't that a little different though? I thought the reason you didn't add the sugar up front is the yeast would consume those fermentables first and then get lazy and leave more of the fermentables from the mash behind than they otherwise would...

[MtnBrewer]

isn't that a little different though? I thought the reason you didn't add the sugar up front is the yeast would consume those fermentables first and then get lazy and leave more of the fermentables from the mash behind than they otherwise would...

Are you referring to the Crabtree Effect? I don't think it has anything to do with laziness but I suppose that's an additional benefit of this method. The real reason I do it that way is to limit the gravity of the wort during fermentation.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Are you referring to the Crabtree Effect? I don't think it has anything to do with laziness but I suppose that's an additional benefit of this method. The real reason I do it that way is to limit the gravity of the wort during fermentation.

I have no idea! I just thought something about the yeast changed after consuming a bunch of simple sugars where they would no longer be as effective at consuming the more complex sugars you produced during the mash.

[Stout_fan]

I have no idea! I just thought something about the yeast changed after consuming a bunch of simple sugars where they would no longer be as effective at consuming the more complex sugars you produced during the mash.

That's if you use Corn sugar.If the bag says "Cane Sugar" then you do not have this problem. So be careful what type of sugar you are buying.And yes, I can personally attest that this is what happens.

[wengared]

finally found the thread i was talking about, for some reason i was thinking he said add DME later. Blktre Group: PatronPosts: 740Joined: 25-March 09From: The Land of OzMember No.: 33 The best thing to do when Brewing Belgians or other big beers where some type of sugar is added is to add the sugar at the end of primary. Brew a 1.060 beer, pitch your yeast, then add the remaining fermentable (sugar) in the amount that would reach your intended OG. Not only is this easier on your yeast, you don't need to pitch as big a starter from the get go. The fermentation alone will build enought yeast cells to handle the sugar addition easily. The result is less stress on your yeast and FG that is easily attainable.

[chadm75]

If I remember correctly, I might have started this thread you're talking about. I was asking about adding DME later in the boil if you're pre-boil gravity numbers are low. I've had low extraction/efficiency issues on my last few mashes and was looking for a way to correct it. Never heard of that company...

[MtnBrewer]

finally found the thread i was talking about, for some reason i was thinking he said add DME later. Blktre Group: PatronPosts: 740Joined: 25-March 09From: The Land of OzMember No.: 33 The best thing to do when Brewing Belgians or other big beers where some type of sugar is added is to add the sugar at the end of primary. Brew a 1.060 beer, pitch your yeast, then add the remaining fermentable (sugar) in the amount that would reach your intended OG. Not only is this easier on your yeast, you don't need to pitch as big a starter from the get go. The fermentation alone will build enought yeast cells to handle the sugar addition easily. The result is less stress on your yeast and FG that is easily attainable.

He's talking about the same thing I was above.