Corker Technique
#1
Posted 03 April 2009 - 03:33 PM
#2
Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:00 PM
I am going to go with no, I was not aware I needed to soak the corks. I rinsed them off with sanitizer, cause I sanitize everything.How long are they supposed to soak? Wonder why that is not listed in the instructions?~dps. I did the World Vineyards California Zinfandel Shiraz. When I was done bottling there was maybe half a bottle left. My wife drank that pretty quick and said it was good so I think it is going to work out well.Are you soaking the corks first?
#3
Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:19 PM
you need to adjust the corker with the screw in the center. It can be adjusted to push the corks in further.This is going to blow my zero post count in the PH, but I have a question.I have been brewing beer for about 15 years, and since I had an extra carboy laying around I decided to make a wine kit.Followed all the directions and so far everything is going great. (wine is so much easier than beer)Then on Monday of this week, I bottled and for some reason I had trouble with the corks going all the way in. I mean they go in, but they have the huge dimple in them from the corker and maybe a 2-3mm lip sort of sticks up out of the top of the bottle. Is there some sort of technique I am missing out on, or is it just the type of corker I am using (which is a simple Twin Lever Hand Corker)?~d
#4
Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:20 PM
Edited by Wayne B, 03 April 2009 - 04:22 PM.
#5
Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:45 PM
Yep, it pushes the cork all the way in, but (man this is hard to describe) it is like the the outside edge of the cork doesn't get pushed all the way in and leaves a little lip that sticks out, normally on one side or the other, not all the way around. I am probably just being picky about it, cause really it doesn't make any difference, it just looks a little odd.BTW. The corks are agglomerate #9 X 1.50" which is what the guy at the homebrew store recommended. Would I be better to use #8s.~dThe "huge dimple" and "a lip {...} that sticks up" comments make me think it is adjusted correctly, but needs a soak as I suggested, or verification of cork size and type, as Wayne suggests.
#6
Posted 03 April 2009 - 05:29 PM
#7
Posted 03 April 2009 - 05:50 PM
You could also wax them. It's a PITA but looks very nice and is impressive when you give them as gifts.I'll weigh in with my $0.02 as well.I only use synthetic corks (normacork). I found with them that it's very easy to leave dimples or a lip if my corker isn't adjusted properly. With the synthetic corks there is no need to soak. I just douse them with StarSan and cork away. They will go in fine dry but I like to sanitize them just in case.When I first started making wind & mead I had a hand corker. I used it for one batch. The next time I borrowed a Portuguese Floor Corker and I've never looked back. I purchased my own pretty quickly after that it's awesome.If nothing works then buy shrink caps for the tops and hide them
#8
Posted 03 April 2009 - 07:36 PM
do you use #9's with a 2 lever? i have been under the impression from my LHBS that the Hand corker will only scrunch a #8?I too use #9x1.5" agglomerates. Try the soaking method, it should work the same for you as it does for me.
#9
Posted 03 April 2009 - 08:56 PM
Or capped beer bottles. I never even bought a corker until I started doing commercial stuff.Or, skip the bottling and just keg it all. If you want give aways, bottle with flip-tops from the keg.
#10
Posted 04 April 2009 - 02:25 PM
Ahh I wasn't aware of that particular model. Looks like a mid level upgrade over the 2 lever I use.I use a Gilda 3-lever Corker.
#11
Posted 04 April 2009 - 04:04 PM
#12
Posted 04 April 2009 - 04:08 PM
#13
Posted 04 April 2009 - 05:24 PM
I once did a FAQ on precision cork seating with a 50 BMG at 1000 yards.... I dowel rod and a mallet will seat the corks when the corker fails. ...
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