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Ok another water thread


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#1 matt6150

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 03:19 PM

So the recent talk about water got me thinking that I got a water report a couple months ago and didn't really look at it. I plan to head over to Brunwater but thought I would post it to see what you guys thought. Not sure what most of it means yet. I have never adjusted anything with my water so far. I was using 5.2 a couple years ago but didn't like the results so I stopped. Any styles that this is best suited for? Or not suited for?

 

pH VALUE  5 .78TOTAL ALKALINITY AS CaCO3 mg/L 42.1CARBONATE mg/L < 1.0BICARBONATE mg/L 42.1CHLORIDES mg/L 13.15T-HARDNESS AS CACO3 mg/L 53.3NITRATE mg/L 7.50TOTAL PHOSPHOROUS mg/L  < 0.20TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLIDS mg/L 136CONDUCTIVITY um/cm 199SULFATE mg/L  <10CALCIUM, TOTAL mg/L 15.8IRON, TOTAL mg/L  < 0.020POTASSIUM, TOTAL mg/L 1.88MAGNESIUM, TOTAL mg/L 3.98SODIUM, TOTAL mg/L 11.1

 



#2 denny

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 03:45 PM

That's pretty darn neutral water! The pH is surprisingly low, though.

Edited by denny, 18 July 2013 - 03:46 PM.


#3 MyaCullen

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 03:46 PM

That's pretty darn neutral water!

no kidding, that's Whiskey water right there



#4 MtnBrewer

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Posted 18 July 2013 - 04:26 PM

The pH is crazy low. It's a wonder his pipes don't dissolve. That's got to be river water.Matt, for APA/EPA/IPA type beers, you'd want to add some gypsum like everybody else who doesn't live in Burton. Add enough to get your Ca into the 100-150 ppm range and sulfate up to around 200-250 ppm. Pale non-hoppy beers (helles, blonde ale, etc.) may need some CaCl2. Amber beers probably wouldn't need any adjustment. Darker beers might need some chalk if you're concerned about the mash pH being too low.I recommend you download Martin's Bru'n Water spreadsheet, enter those values in the Water Report Input tab and then go from there.

#5 Big Nake

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 08:50 AM

Yeah, very low numbers all the way around. Bicarb of 42 is nice, calcium, sulfate and chloride all less than 15 is unusual but easy to fix. If you decide to look closer at water, grabbing some gypsum, calcium chloride and lactic acid (or other acid) on your next trip to the LHBS (or online order) would be all you need. Get on your knees and kiss the ground that protects your water, my friend! :D

#6 neddles

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 09:08 AM

The pH is crazy low. It's a wonder his pipes don't dissolve. 

 If he has low TDS then it's likely his pipes are dissolving.

 

 

 

I recommend you download Martin's Bru'n Water spreadsheet, enter those values in the Water Report Input tab and then go from there.

Brunwater is great and will get you close to target on your mash pH. Just don't put too much value in the profiles he provides.



#7 denny

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 09:21 AM

 Brunwater is great and will get you close to target on your mash pH. Just don't put too much value in the profiles he provides.

 

The color/flavor profiles are great.  The city profiles are bogus and even Martin will tell you that. 


Edited by denny, 21 July 2013 - 09:23 AM.


#8 MyaCullen

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 09:44 AM

 

The color/flavor profiles are great.  The city profiles are bogus and even Martin will tell you that. 

which profile for Alt, Amber Balanced, or Amber Malty?



#9 denny

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 10:55 AM

which profile for Alt, Amber Balanced, or Amber Malty?

 

I use amber bitter for a Duss. alt.  Probably amber balanced for other alt styles.



#10 MyaCullen

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 11:06 AM

 

I use amber bitter for a Duss. alt.  Probably amber balanced for other alt styles.

dang it I already started my water with amber balanced in mind



#11 neddles

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 11:36 AM

 

The color/flavor profiles are great.  The city profiles are bogus and even Martin will tell you that. 

This is stated better than the way I put it.



#12 MyaCullen

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 11:49 AM

dang it I already started my water with amber balanced in mind

actually it was pretty easy to modify this to something close to the Amber bitter profile



#13 denny

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 12:38 PM

actually it was pretty easy to modify this to something close to the Amber bitter profile

 

Yeah, I'd think a little more gypsum would do it.



#14 MyaCullen

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Posted 21 July 2013 - 01:27 PM

 

Yeah, I'd think a little more gypsum would do it.

an extra gram is what I came up with, there isn't much different between the two



#15 matt6150

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Posted 29 July 2013 - 05:36 PM

Forgot about this thread. Thanks for the input guys! As far as the pipes dissolving, I guess that's why my whole hose has CPVC or black plastic pipe.



#16 matt6150

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 06:49 AM

Ok I'm finally giving some water additions a go. I'm brewing two 5/gal batches today, a hoppy APA and a Amber. I've been playing with Brunwater and I'm going to be adding some gypsum to these beers. Looking like for the APA about 6 grams in the mash water and 6.8 grams in the sparge. And for the Amber 2.4 grams in the mash water and 2.3 grams in the sparge. Look about right to you water guys, nothing way off? I figured this would get me in the ballpark and get me rolling with water additions. Also I got colorphast strips yesterday and will be checking my mash ph as well and adjusting with some lactic acid as needed.



#17 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 06:57 AM

With your water profile I wouldn't worry too much about mash PH. If anything I'd expect it to be a little low if you have any crystal malts in there. 



#18 matt6150

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 07:09 AM

I have some crystal malts but not much. Should I be worried if its too low? How do you raise it?



#19 MtnBrewer

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 07:13 AM

Ok I'm finally giving some water additions a go. I'm brewing two 5/gal batches today, a hoppy APA and a Amber. I've been playing with Brunwater and I'm going to be adding some gypsum to these beers. Looking like for the APA about 6 grams in the mash water and 6.8 grams in the sparge. And for the Amber 2.4 grams in the mash water and 2.3 grams in the sparge. Look about right to you water guys, nothing way off? I figured this would get me in the ballpark and get me rolling with water additions. Also I got colorphast strips yesterday and will be checking my mash ph as well and adjusting with some lactic acid as needed.

Those look to be in the ballpark. If you want to send me your spreadsheet, I'll be happy to look at it for you.To raise mash pH you add something alkaline like baking soda or pickling lime. Chalk used to be recommended for this but after reading Water, I'll never use it again.

#20 neddles

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:09 AM

Ok I'm finally giving some water additions a go. I'm brewing two 5/gal batches today, a hoppy APA and a Amber. I've been playing with Brunwater and I'm going to be adding some gypsum to these beers. Looking like for the APA about 6 grams in the mash water and 6.8 grams in the sparge. And for the Amber 2.4 grams in the mash water and 2.3 grams in the sparge. Look about right to you water guys, nothing way off? I figured this would get me in the ballpark and get me rolling with water additions. Also I got colorphast strips yesterday and will be checking my mash ph as well and adjusting with some lactic acid as needed.

Don't forget to account for the built in error you get from the ColorpHast strips. They will read 0.3-0.35 lower than actual pH at room temperature.




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