Electric Elements
#1
Posted 15 July 2009 - 07:29 AM
#2
Posted 15 July 2009 - 07:44 AM
#3
Posted 15 July 2009 - 07:47 AM
As for materials, I'm not totally sure but information on Wikipedia says that they are commonly made from Nichrome (80% nickel, 20% chromium). I've had plenty of my own beer brewed with an electric element (as have others), and I've drank other's beer brewed electric and I can assure you there are no flavor issues.https://en.wikipedia...Heating_elementAs for the IC, here is what I did to keep weight off the element. The small coil fits between the element and the side of the keggle. Mine is 3/8" OD. And keep in mind that water does provide a buoyant force on any object placed in it. So no matter what your chiller weighs in air, it imparts less force when submerged (yes its mass remains the same). FWIW, I've found the elements to be pretty stout and they can handle a bit of weight placed on them. The main reason I bent mine as shown was to allow more copper to be in contact with the wort, not necessarily to lessen the weight on the element.Two questions for you electric brewers out there, that are concerns I have.First materials of construction for the element. I saw a post recently that uses a 240V 5500 Watt RIPP Element https://www.brewersf...le-to-electric/. The element pictured appears as though it is carbon steel. I'm leery of using a carbon steel element, but the comparable stainless elements that have similar output on McMaster are crazy expensive. So, what do you think as far as materials of construction go for the heating element?Second, and I'm sure this is entirely dependent on number one, but how much weight would you be comfortable setting on top of one of these elements? I have an immersion chiller that is made up of 50+' of 3/8" copper coil. When its filled with recirculating water, it can be pretty heavy and I have some reservations about setting the chiller across the top of it. However, I don't really want to mount the element vertically, because I want to ensure that the element is covered at all times.
Edited by stangbat, 15 July 2009 - 07:49 AM.
#4
Posted 15 July 2009 - 08:35 AM
#5
Posted 15 July 2009 - 01:12 PM
#6
Posted 15 July 2009 - 01:47 PM
Edited by stangbat, 15 July 2009 - 02:04 PM.
#7
Posted 15 July 2009 - 01:57 PM
this is the direction i'm going, but i plan on mounting the electric element under the bottom of the mashtun and make a false bottom to incase it. i haven't figured out what to put in the false bottom with it, ceramics, high temp insulation, etc?if i can afford it i'd like to have the local metalist make me two pots one 1 inch smaller in diameter to put insulation in. you see the idea i'm trying to explain.? I also want to be able to dismantle it in case i have to replace the element.What about an element in the mash tun for keeping the temperature constant? Anyone go this route, or are you guys just using single infusions with water heated up from the element in the HLT?Anyone that is using an element in the mash, any problems with scorching the grain around the element?
#8
Posted 15 July 2009 - 04:47 PM
The nichrome is the wire inside the element. The wire is surrounded by some ceramic powder and the whole thing is in a metallic sheath. The cheap elements appear to be Cr-plated copper. The expensive ones are inco and you can think of them as more or less stainless steel. All of them should impart the same amount of flavor as a stainless kettle - none.The only issue with setting an immersion chiller on one is if the element isn't touching the bottom, a good portion of the torque will be transferred to your heating element gasket and could lead to a leak.As for materials, I'm not totally sure but information on Wikipedia says that they are commonly made from Nichrome (80% nickel, 20% chromium). I've had plenty of my own beer brewed with an electric element (as have others), and I've drank other's beer brewed electric and I can assure you there are no flavor issues.https://en.wikipedia...Heating_element
#9
Posted 15 July 2009 - 05:15 PM
#10
Posted 15 July 2009 - 05:43 PM
Good call. I can solder on 4 1/2" copper posts to make sure I clear the element.build some standoffs for your chiller with some copper pipe...or even with some left over copper tubing.
#11
Posted 15 July 2009 - 05:44 PM
This is my biggest concern.The only issue with setting an immersion chiller on one is if the element isn't touching the bottom, a good portion of the torque will be transferred to your heating element gasket and could lead to a leak.
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