35 replies to this topic

[gnef]

I just finished construction of my new mash tun - a 120 qt cooler to complement my 60 qt that I have been using for years now. The only current purpose of this cooler is to be able to do 10 gallon batches, or possibly 5 gallon batches of big beers (or really big beers in the case of a 5 gallon batch). (I may consider going to a larger batch size in the future, but that is not the current goal of this setup)With that said, I now need to reconsider my yeast choice for big beers - I'd like to have a choice for American and English styles, and possibly a lager strain. I already have yeast that I've used for big Belgian beers.So what are some good options? I'd like to be able to at least hit 15% reliably, and I don't want to be forced into a feeding schedule (I vaguely remember a feeding requirement when using 099 at 20+%).For the lager yeast - I've been throwing around the idea of a samichlaus clone for years.

[MtnBrewer]

Usually I'm not a huge fan of 1056 (and its brethren) but it cannot be beat for big beers. It's highly attenuative and if you pitch enough, I've seen it drag a barley wine into the teens. Another option might be 1007. For an English strain, that's going to be difficult. Not too many are attenuative enough for a big beer. Personally I think 1028 is probably the best bet. For the lager, I believe WL occasionally releases the Samiclaus yeast strain as a seasonal so that could be an option for you. If not, most lager strains are pretty attenuative and I'd go with 2206.

[zymot]

I have done some big beers using White Labs WPL-810: California Common (AKA steam) yeast.I liked the results and would not hesitate to use it again.

Edited by zymot, 30 May 2012 - 03:58 PM.

[tag]

I like White Labs 007 for big English beers.

[Mya]

that new San Diego Super yeast is supposedly a beast, plain old S-04 dry does well if keep it roused, S-189 dry if you can find it for a lager yeast, is a beast

[gnef]

These are some great suggestions so far. I think in the past, I've only used US-05, which like Mtn said, it did fairly well. I tried nottingham and S-04 in the past, but the results were sub par, and I believe they stalled around 10-11%.To add to the information - I'd like something that is more than just a super yeast, and I'd like to be able to use it for other beers. When I make these high gravity beers, I typically will start the yeast with a 5 gallon batch of a small beer, then pitch that directly into 10 gallons of a medium gravity beer, and then finish out with the barleywine of the series. I want the other beers to also taste good too.I will need to do some research into the strains you all have listed so far. I will probably still start with US-05, but I have plans for a number of big beers this summer, and want to do some experimentation.

[Mya]

These are some great suggestions so far.I think in the past, I've only used US-05, which like Mtn said, it did fairly well. I tried nottingham and S-04 in the past, but the results were sub par, and I believe they stalled around 10-11%.To add to the information - I'd like something that is more than just a super yeast, and I'd like to be able to use it for other beers. When I make these high gravity beers, I typically will start the yeast with a 5 gallon batch of a small beer, then pitch that directly into 10 gallons of a medium gravity beer, and then finish out with the barleywine of the series. I want the other beers to also taste good too.I will need to do some research into the strains you all have listed so far. I will probably still start with US-05, but I have plans for a number of big beers this summer, and want to do some experimentation.

on second thought I had to use EC-1118 to finish my barleywine I did with s-04, strike thatthe s-189 dry is the strain used for Samiclaus apparentlyI am using the same method of propogation right now with 1028 to make an IIPA soon, I have a low gravity bitter on it now

[beach]

that new San Diego Super yeast is supposedly a beast, plain old S-04 dry does well if keep it roused, S-189 dry if you can find it for a lager yeast, is a beast

Well, I'll be able to report back soon if WLP090 (San Diego Super) interests you. While not as big as you're talking I've had a 1.118 Impy stout on it for just about 2 weeks. I'll be checking gravity on Saturday.Beach

[gnef]

I've only done brief research (mixed results from what I've read so far), so your experiences would definitely be appreciated, as well as how you treated the yeast (fermentation temp, pitching rate, oxygenation, nutrients, etc.) and how finicky it is for you.

[beach]

Well then, I shall endevor to give you the best report I can muster. :PBeach

[beach]

Hey gnef, this is a bit overdue, but here goes:My one and only experience with WLP090; made a step starter= 1x 2 l + 1x 2.5 l (each step had a pinch of Wyeast beer nutrient), mashed an Immpy Stout with 6.7% crystal malt at 147df for 90 min, added 1 tsp Wyeast beer nut. at 10 left in boil, oxygenated for 1.5 min prior to pitching, fermentation activity w/in a few hours at 69df, dropped temp to 65df for 3 weeks, roused yeast twice over this period, ramped back up to 70df and roused again. OG=1.118, FG= 1.026. Didn't attenuate as much as I had hoped, but the beer tasted great prior to adding to the LDBC bbl project.Hope this helps. Any questions?Beach

[gnef]

Hmmmmmm, it looks like if I go with that yeast I will have to ferment a bit higher than I normally do, or pitch a lot more yeast (I would pitch on top of a yeast cake most likely for a BIG beer).I also think I could oxygenate twice for a big beer, 12 hrs after pitching, and maybe ramp up the fermentation temp. I typically like to ferment low 60's, usually 62F, I could start it there, leave it for a few days or a week, then allow it to ramp up to upper 60's or so.Have you done a separate beer with 090, or is this the only one?

[beach]

I've only done the one batch with 090 and I rarely make beers that big. I considered adding O2 a second time, but it took off pretty quickly and the airlock was going basically continiously within 10-12 hours so I let it go.Beacheta: should also add that the fermantation was very active for the first 4 days then slowed way down. I fermented 6 gal in an 1/2 bbl sanke but I'm sure if it had been in a carboy/something smaller it would have blown off big time

Edited by beach, 20 June 2012 - 08:54 PM.

[armagh]

Wyeast occasionally releases its 9093 Imperial strain, which seems impervious to just about anything, and their 9097 when available makes the best old ales I've made, but it will max out somewhere around 12%.

[Rick]

I've had success with Wyeast 1335, I find it works well for both American and English style ales. I made a RIS that started at 1.105 and that yeast chewed through to 1.020. That's 81% attenuation. Mash temp was 149 ºF.

[gnef]

Well, I just bought some US-05 (I try to keep it on hand anyway), WL090 San Diego Super, and Wyeast Eau De Vie. Looks like I will have some big beers in the near future!ETA - Just a thought: doing a SMASH barleywine partigyle with a sack of grain in my new mash tun. I wonder how high of an OG I can get using a full 55# sack of grain and boiling for 2 hours for a 5 gallon batch, accounting for reduced efficiency.

Edited by gnef, 12 July 2012 - 03:32 PM.

[Mya]

Well, I just bought some US-05 (I try to keep it on hand anyway), WL090 San Diego Super, and Wyeast Eau De Vie. Looks like I will have some big beers in the near future!ETA - Just a thought: doing a SMASH barleywine partigyle with a sack of grain in my new mash tun. I wonder how high of an OG I can get using a full 55# sack of grain and boiling for 2 hours for a 5 gallon batch, accounting for reduced efficiency.

even at 50% eff you are gonna get around 1.20 for a 5.0 gallon batch

[gnef]

That was what I was hoping. If I can get a bit higher than that, that would be great too. Maybe I should make this a sack and a half!

[Mya]

That was what I was hoping. If I can get a bit higher than that, that would be great too. Maybe I should make this a sack and a half!

:blink:good luckthat's a 20% ABV beer

[gnef]

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