
Converting freezer to Kegerator, without building a collar
Started by
Hines
, Jan 11 2012 07:57 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 11 January 2012 - 07:57 AM
I've spent the past few days looking at internet "how-to" articles on turning a chest freezer into kegerator. I seems like most people suggest that you build a collar and run your lines and taps through the wooden collar instead of drilling into the freezer.Problem.I need my taps to be on top of the freezer using a tower tap. I really don't want the dogs to be able to reach the tap & lick them. I also am putting this in a location that would prevent this due to the taps sticking out and people running in to them.So what advice can you guys give me about drilling holes through freezer walls? I'm assuming the back of the freezer is a big no no since some of the pipes run through that area. possibly the side is the best?I welcome everyone's opinions.
#2
Posted 11 January 2012 - 08:14 AM
The reason why you don't put them on top is because the lid opens backwards and you'll likely mess up your expensive tower loading and unloading the kegerator by accidently letting it drop on a wall or something. Why don't you look into getting a stand up fridge without a freezer and put the taps up high?ORMake a fancy collar that allows you to put the taps up higher off the end of the freezer. I recall seeing something like that on here before. ORAdd a regular collar and run lines to a separate serving station through the wall, or hidden under some molding. You could build a cabinet (or buy one) that holds all your glasses and such and has the taps on top and it would be modular from the freezer.ORBuild a custom cabinet and gut a small fridge to use in it.Million ways to skin this cat. I don't recommend using a tower on top of the chest freezer.I'm gonna build my fermentation chamber this weekend and also gonna build a custom fridge box to go in the FFIL's bar. He has a modular fridge from a sandwich cart that we are gonna mount to it.Cheers,Rich
#3
Posted 11 January 2012 - 08:22 AM
The short answer to all of your questions revolves around me putting this in my kitchen and having a small space. maybe I will snap a picture tonight and post t.My plan is to build a nice wooden box around the freezer. It will have a pivoting top (where the tower will be mounted), it opens to the left giving access to the freezer, which opens to the back.I'm going to give the lid of the freezer another look when I get home. nothing runs through that, it's just a top. Maybe I can drill two small holes in the back of it, run the lines, then fill the gap with silicone caulk.
#4
Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:37 AM
As long as the freezer is tall enough you can do it. Just make sure your lines are free and not tangled up so when you open the top they are not holding it closed from the inside.
#5
Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:44 AM
I think I see what you mean. I would put some kind of linkage on the cabinet top (if i caught your drift the freezer will sit in a cabinet) as a safety measure so you don't accidentally break your tower. Make sure to make the cabinet wide enough to allow the freezer top to open freely. I wouldn't worry too much about drilling through the top of the freezer to run your lines. Most people remove them and add the collar, so really all you have to go thru is insulation.Cheers,Rich
#6
Posted 11 January 2012 - 12:22 PM
Only other thing to keep in mind is that most chest freezers need some abount of breathing room around them as the "hot side" lines run near the outer skin of the freezer. If you build/insulate too much around the outside of it, it will have a harder time dispersing that heat. This will add stress to the cooling system.
#7
Posted 11 January 2012 - 05:52 PM
Originally I had a shotgun 2 tap tower on my 14.8 cu kegorator. I think I had a piece of plywood cut out to match the bolts anchoring it - anyway it was reinforced. The thin steel shell wobbled a lot without it when opening and closing. It worked well, but I had clearance for opening and closing considering the tower. Now I have a dry erase board over the original hole (patched and reinsulated), collar and 4 taps. Honestly in retrospect I would just get PVC, sand, prime and paint it for the tower - less weight and it can be custom height for the area you're working with. I can understand the dog thing but it might not be a problem - or you could lose a lot of beer. Just some thoughts from someone that had a tower for a while.BTW, second life for the tower is my Schnitiz........
#8
Posted 17 January 2012 - 06:24 PM
Well honkeys, I decided to do a collar. Probably going to be the end of next month though.I'm thinking about doing a collar, then finding some really thin wood laminate to put on the sides of the freezer. Some how I will create a cover for the top as well. I have some super thin laminate flooring that I might be able to glue together and then reinforce the sides with some sort of trim. Not sure yet.
#9
Posted 19 January 2012 - 09:19 AM
Better put some fur strips under the wood paneling to create a airspace for the lines to breathe. Most likely a muffin fan to recirc. Air in that space too.
#10
Posted 19 January 2012 - 04:33 PM
Find a freezer with the coils on the back and you'll be able to cover it without having to worry about an air space. I have a Sunbeam brand that I bought at Menards.Beach
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