
Water profile for a helles?
#1
Posted 21 August 2011 - 08:22 PM
#2
Posted 21 August 2011 - 08:41 PM
#3
Posted 22 August 2011 - 06:06 AM
#4
Posted 22 August 2011 - 06:15 AM
I've taken to adding a little bit of gypsum to my last two oktoberfests and I like the results. it sharpens them up a little which I enjoy. maybe this is "wrong" but I like itI think the key to Helles is water low in sulfates. If you do that you can hop it a little harder with noble hops and the bitterness will be smooth and mild. If you want to go all in and try to duplicate Munich water, you can. That would be very low sulfates, moderate (50-70 ppm) calcium and high bicarb (150+ ppm). I would do that with an oktoberfest but I wouldn't do it with a helles because of the pale grist.My tap water is around 50 ppm HCO3 and I've brewed pretty decent helleseseses so I think you're safe with that level. Add enough calcium carbonate to get to 50 ppm and then add enough calcium chloride to balance out the residual alkalinity. Don't add any gypsum; you can add a tiny bit of epsom salt if you feel you need the magnesium but watch the sulfates.

#5
Posted 22 August 2011 - 07:39 AM
I think it looks fine.Good Helles water?? More or less of anything?
Similar to mine. I use 12 oz. of CaraHell instead of the Vienna. Also I do some aroma hopping. I would have thought that would be verboten. However I read the Classic Beers book on the style and Horst's recipes included late addition hops. Some recipes included flameout additions and some even included additions after flameout during the chill. The key there is that the hops need to be noble or close to it. I used WGV of all things one time and it was excellent.Then the recipe is straightforward:8.5 lbs of Best Malz Pils12 oz Franco-Belges Vienna12 oz Weyermann Munich5 AAU of a combination of Hersbrucker & Hallertau2782 Staro-Prague Lager yeastSingle-infusion mash at 151°.
You'd like my o'fest beers then. I've ruined more than I want to admit by going just a little bit over the top on the hops. It's hard to resist adding just liiiiiiittle bit more hops when most of what you make is pale ales and IPAs.I've taken to adding a little bit of gypsum to my last two oktoberfests and I like the results. it sharpens them up a little which I enjoy. maybe this is "wrong" but I like it

#6
Posted 22 August 2011 - 07:52 AM
ruined is subjective!You'd like my o'fest beers then. I've ruined more than I want to admit by going just a little bit over the top on the hops. It's hard to resist adding just liiiiiiittle bit more hops when most of what you make is pale ales and IPAs.

#7
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:00 AM
Troof!ruined is subjective!
Too much bitterness mainly. The bitterness kept the malt flavors in check and to me festbier is all about the malt. The problem is now resolved but I went through a few batches before I learned to hold myself back. The hop hand is strong in this one.I've been doing just FWH and a start of the boil addition. Are you getting too much bitterness or too much hop flavor?
#8
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:03 AM
#9
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:07 AM
Edited by shaggaroo, 22 August 2011 - 08:09 AM.
#10
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:07 AM
I've never felt the finish should be super dry. I also use aromatic in my o'fest for maltiness and I really like it. I don't have my recipe in front of me so I'm not sure what mash temp I use. I think something like 150-151F. I do however use some carapils.Okay, I'm going with that water profile then. I forgot to show that my recipe also includes 4 oz of Aromatic for that extra-added maltiness. I did read in a few different reviews that getting a little hop aroma was acceptable so I'll just consider that personal preference. The Hofbrau Original is fantastic and perfectly balanced. So does anyone have an opinion on a single infusion mash temp? I also read a style review that suggested that even though the emphasis here is "malt", the finish should be dry. What say you?
#11
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:15 AM
#12
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:16 AM
you could always age it for a long time and let the IBUs fadeTroof!Too much bitterness mainly. The bitterness kept the malt flavors in check and to me festbier is all about the malt. The problem is now resolved but I went through a few batches before I learned to hold myself back. The hop hand is strong in this one.

#13
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:25 AM
I mash at 150°F. Mine might be a hair on the sweet side due to the crystal malt. I treat it almost like a pale o'fest, except for the aroma hop additions.Okay, I'm going with that water profile then. I forgot to show that my recipe also includes 4 oz of Aromatic for that extra-added maltiness. I did read in a few different reviews that getting a little hop aroma was acceptable so I'll just consider that personal preference. The Hofbrau Original is fantastic and perfectly balanced. So does anyone have an opinion on a single infusion mash temp? I also read a style review that suggested that even though the emphasis here is "malt", the finish should be dry. What say you?
#14
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:31 AM
Okay, 150.5° it is! Should be right in the middle of the zip code. I plan to make this beer next week after my Vienna (made yesterday) is done. Cheers and thanks again gang.I mash at 150°F. Mine might be a hair on the sweet side due to the crystal malt. I treat it almost like a pale o'fest, except for the aroma hop additions.
#15
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:49 AM
#16
Posted 22 August 2011 - 08:55 AM
So what do your overall water numbers look like for the style? If you post that and I take Shagg's numbers along with the rest of the info in this thread, I can make a better guess and put the water numbers where I would like them for my tastebuds. Lamecose? Did you lose a bet or something?I done several helleses (i?) some really traditional with munich water and others with my take on what I enjoy and thought would work well with this type of beer. That said, I like my interpretation better (surprise surprise). I stick to an even ratio chloride to sulphate, bringing my sulphate numbers up by adding epsom instead of gypsum to also pick up my magnesium numbers. I should add my muni water is almost RO is ppm of everything. I have to build my water for every beer I make. Now I've come to actually like my helleses (i) to be more balanced than malt forward, much like a more sessionable gravity dortmunder with considerably softer water. The helles I currently have on is actually fairly hop forward. More so than I usually like... to the point where I can't really call it a helles at all. Not my intention, but now I've found the upper bounds to my interpretation to the style.Cheers!

#17
Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:01 AM
If you can hit a half a degree strike temperature...Okay, 150.5° it is! Should be right in the middle of the zip code. I plan to make this beer next week after my Vienna (made yesterday) is done. Cheers and thanks again gang.

#18
Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:06 AM
I'm usually within half a degree (+/-). I've got my system pretty well dialed in and I don't change much.If you can hit a half a degree strike temperature...
:smilielol:I think there's not much difference between 150 and 152. After that there's a pretty big difference.
#19
Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:13 AM
I'd have to look at home to be sure, but something like:50-55 calcium13 magnesium~45-55 both chloride and sulphate trying to get as close to 1:1 as practicaland from memory about 10 caco3 this is the one I'm having a harder time remembering off hand.If memory serves, that should be in the ballpark for a ~3srm helles.Lamecose... yeah. I missed a meetup of blewbies a while back and haven't lived it down, pretty consistently being called lame. I figured, maybe if I own it for a while I'll live it down... not yet though.And I had way late notice and it was a almost 2 hour drive.So what do your overall water numbers look like for the style? If you post that and I take Shagg's numbers along with the rest of the info in this thread, I can make a better guess and put the water numbers where I would like them for my tastebuds. Lamecose? Did you lose a bet or something?

#20
Posted 22 August 2011 - 09:28 AM
Thermpen, FTW!If you can hit a half a degree strike temperature...
:smilielol:I think there's not much difference between 150 and 152. After that there's a pretty big difference.
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