You think it would be hard to clone Pilsner Urquell?
#21
Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:37 PM
#22
Posted 30 March 2009 - 08:42 PM
I'm thinking the crispness of Prima Pils means good attenuation, so mash temp high 140s? I read somewhere that they use a hopback. I think I'll take your advice on the WY2124.Prima is slightly higher OG than the traditional German pils, aim for around 13P. A grist of 100% pils malt from Germany or the Czech republic would be good. Perform a multi step mash or decoction according to the malt specs, ie if needed. Take care to avoid oxygen pickup during mashing and lautering. Hopping is around 50-60 BUs, you can choose to use all noble hops if you can fit all the hops in your kettle, or start with a higher alpha kettle hop like German Perle or Northern Brewer and follow up with the traditional flavor and aroma hops such as Hallertau and plenty of Saaz. Do not dry hop pils and be sure to boil the last hop addition for at least 5-10 mins. Use a huge starter of clean lager yeast, a one gallon starter can be allowed to complete and take the slurry from that for 5-6 gals. Oxygenate to saturation by injection/bubbling pure O2. Ferment cool, keeping below 50F. Lager 5-6 weeks at 31F.
#23
Posted 01 April 2009 - 03:32 PM
I recently did a belgian on the low side, and it was definitely lower in body than I typically prefer. Wouldn't a Pils lose that maltiness I love from a low mash? Or would Vienna/Munich make up for it.Thanks, Ken. I found this from Jim Busch (of Victory) on HBD:I'm thinking the crispness of Prima Pils means good attenuation, so mash temp high 140s? I read somewhere that they use a hopback. I think I'll take your advice on the WY2124.
#24
Posted 01 April 2009 - 05:40 PM
#25
Posted 03 April 2009 - 07:19 PM
I have never had prima pils but Bittberger is a good example of a G Pils. To compare Bo pils vs german pils they are going to bothi come in with the same amt of alcohol but they will get there 2 different ways the G will start out smaller but finish drier the bo starts bigger but finishes higher. As for hops IMO the bo pils needs saaz, I think you could use the saaz in the G but if I had saaz I would make the Bo. Any German noble hop could work in the G, I just associate the saaz with the bo. The water for the Bo is going to be a lot softer than the G. With the grain bill the G could be 100% german pils the Bo recipes ofter have a touch of munich or vienna to add some maltiness (my guess is that this is to compensate for infussion mashing and not having PU's malt).If you just want to go with a generic pilsner aim for 1.050, ibu 40ish, add the hops at 60,30,5, mash 150-154 97% Pilsner malt 3% munich, filter your water and adj for pH. It is going to put you some where in the Pilsner family.I personally use 2124 for most of my lagers.I bought a bunch of saaz in preparation of a big batch of pilsener. I've read Noonan's book, but I have a question on the recipe. PU is good, but I love Victory's Prima Pils. On beeradvocate they call it a "german pilsener". Could I get close with saaz? What about yeast and grain bill? The style isn't in Noonan's book, but perhaps it is known as something else? Thanks!
#26
Posted 03 April 2009 - 07:35 PM
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