21 replies to this topic

[shmgeggie]

I have a keg that seems to be giving me problems. When checking for leaks, how do you check the pressure release valve or whatever you call it? There doesn't seem to be an obvious place to put the soapy water. It's the only thing that in the whole system I didn't check for leaks last time. Am I the only one that's bother by the fact that, if you find a leak, you now have soapy water on the lid that may drip into the finished beer when you try to re-seat it?Also, I'd like to make sure the keg doesn't leak before I leave the gas on. The beer in the kegs is carbed but may not be fully carbed. So if I pressurize the keg and leave it overnight to see if it holds pressure, the beer might just absorb the CO2 and the keg lose pressure even though it's ok. Is this an issue? Is there another way to test, besides the old soap-bubble test? Should I just use another keg, so I can check the empty keg overnight then transfer from the suspect keg to the tested one? Can I even transfer the carbed beer from one key to another without foaming issues? Should I just try the same keg with a new lid? I've been trying to keep kegs together with the same lid, for some reason - I have no idea if that's necessary or even desirable.I've been doing ok with this setup for years and I've just started having trouble lately, if you're wondering how much of a kegging noob I am. It's just that losing a couple tanks of CO2 recently has gotten me a little paranoid.

[djinkc]

StarSan will foam around the PRV. Double up the strength if you want for more surface tension. I have plenty that lids were swapped, not intentionally. Most work fine. Yeah, you can transfer to another keg. Make a jumper hose with two beer disconnects - low pressure and cold. eta - if you transfer to another keg, purge it with CO2 first.

Edited by djinkc, 11 February 2011 - 04:56 PM.

[No Party JKor]

If you can't find the leak with soapy water/star san, pressurize it to ~15 psi then dunk it in a tub of water.

[klickcue]

I agree with all the above.Star San is what I use since there is a spray bottle always mixed up.Most of leaks that I have found originate at the keg lid o-ring. Two out of the several kegs that I have were at the pressure relief valve which were replaced with replacement valves.Even though the keg lid o-rings are lubricated, the o-ring may not find a home. Place the lid on the keg, move the spring handle to lightly hold the lid in place and hit the keg with 30 psi of CO2. This will generally seat the o-ring with the lid on keg top. Check with Star San for leakage. Once sealed, lower the regulator to carbonation pressure.Always check your keg for leakage on a fresh keg since you can lose a 5# cylinder in a night due to leakage

[No Party JKor]

FWIW, I use Snoop. It works better than soapy water or Star San, but isn't readily available around the house.

[klickcue]

FWIW, I use Snoop. It works better than soapy water or Star San, but isn't readily available around the house.

Used Snoop for years but only around air and natural gas

[Cliff Claven]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

[No Party JKor]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

hah, that's clever.

[shmgeggie]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

I love it.Part of my problem may have been that even though I seated the lid properly (as described above) & tested the seal, I started to worry that if the pressure dropped, the lid would fall into the keg. So I pulled the handle thing over so it would hold the lid if the pressure dropped. I think that might've broken the seal.

[positiveContact]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

so it fits snug around the keg so you can fill up the space on the top of the keg with water?

[pete maz]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

That's brilliant!

[Mynameisluka]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

i do this exact same thing when i have a keg leak that i can't find with star san.

[shmgeggie]

i do this exact same thing when i have a keg leak that i can't find with star san.

Where did you get a tube? What size/type?

[Mynameisluka]

https://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=68&page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=30888&category_id=2132i'm pretty sure that's the exact one i have.

[Stout_fan]

best idea I've heard in a while.

[ChefLamont]

I read somewhere that someone uses an inner tube (small lawn tractor?) Place around the top of the keg and fill with air. Then you have a "tub" to put water in to check for leaks.

Now THAT is smart.I am about to blow up (no pun intended) my CO2 system on the kegerator and redo it head to toe. I have managed to leak 3 yes three 20# tanks of CO2 since I moved and I cannot find the leak. I will have to incorporate this in the full-on assault of the bastage leaks. Ohhhh its on!!

[shmgeggie]

I just wanted to add that part of my problem has been that the pressure gauge that's supposed to show how much C02 is left in the tank is broken (I got my system 2nd hand). The dial face got bent somehow, so the needle gets stuck on the dial face. I've read somewhere that these gauges are useless and you shouldn't even bother with them, because by the time they show the tank as low it's pretty much empty. I disagree. It is useful because, if the pressure drops too fast, it will show you that you have a slow leak and you can do something about it before you lose the entire tank. Without it, I don't know anything is wrong until the tank is empty. I just bent the needle on the gauge so it won't get hung up on the dial face any more. Hopefully, that'll do the trick.

[ChefLamont]

... I've read somewhere that these gauges are useless and you shouldn't even bother with them, ....

I have pretty much always thought this.

It is useful because, if the pressure drops too fast, it will show you that you have a slow leak and you can do something about it before you lose the entire tank. Without it, I don't know anything is wrong until the tank is empty. I just bent the needle on the gauge so it won't get hung up on the dial face any more. Hopefully, that'll do the trick.

That's interesting. Of course, you detect this with the tank valve closed. I usually try to do this with the low pressure valve, but it is not as obvious to see. I might have to break down and put a HP gage on my regulator set. As I said above, I am chasing a leak myself.By the way I was at lowes yesterday and picked up a lawn tractor tube. Will have to try that for myself.This thread is packed full of winning ideas.

[shmgeggie]

I did the tractor tire trick with an tube for an 8" rim (as posted earlier). I needed to cut the valve stem out because it made a lump where water would get out but worked like a charm after that. It turns out my lid seal and pressure-relief valve are fine. It's leaking at the gas-in QD. I should try a gas-in post from another keg as a short-term fix, right? Then get a new o-ring for the one that's leaking?edit: Just to clarify - The leak is at the post o-ring, not the poppet. The gas-in QD has to be connected in order to see the leak.

Edited by shmgeggie, 20 February 2011 - 12:04 PM.

[shmgeggie]

Final update: After switching the gas-in post from another keg, I took a look at the old one. Even with my aging eyes and without reading-glasses, I could see the crack in the o-ring. So, the final lesson is... Do a visual inspection of all your o-rings when you're getting a keg ready to fill (note to self: Get a pair of reading glasses for the brewing area).At the risk of stating the obvious again, I'll also add that the "gas-gauge" on the tank will drop when you put the tank in the fridge because gasses take up less volume when they cool. If you want to use the gauge to monitor for slow leaks, you have to leave the tank in the fridge overnight first to cool it off enough to get a stable reading. Mine's been rock-steady since last night (I marked the dial with electrical tape). I love happy endings (*sniff*).