
I was thinking of making an orange blossom honey and vanilla mead
#1
Posted 10 February 2011 - 08:53 AM
#2
Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:07 AM
Start with checking the FAQ in this section. That should answer a lot of your questions and probably lead you to some more specific questions. There is also a calculation spreadsheet in there that is VERY handy for figuring out volumes, gravity, and gravity of various fruits.As for your last couple questions:I would want something sweet enough for my gf to drink but high octane enough that it's not (|).Its my understanding that you heat up X amount of water, start dissolving honey in, never letting it actually boil. You also add in yeast nutrient at this point too, right?Also, how does yeast work for mead? I've messed around with sweet mead yeast, and it seems to just barely do anything then six months later you find it actually fermented! Champagne yeast adds a nice lightness and can handle high gravity, but it ferments so dry that anything you make tastes like champagne with hints of whatever you started with. If one were making a monster mead would one be able to nurse it along with supplemental honey as the ferment went on? How well does this work? Thanks.
There are LOTS of options here. I've been very happy with Lalvin yeasts for my meads. I've used D47 and 71B the most. There is nothing wrong with the Red Star or Lallemand but I have not used them as much to have an opinion.What other yeasts are good for mead?
Not that I am aware of.Is botulism a risk, since honey as botulism spores in it?
However many pounds of honey depends on what gravity you are aiming for. Check out the Melomel spreadsheet and it will answer that question. As for adding clarifiers. If you want it clear in less than 4 months I'd say yes. If you are willing to sit on it for longer than probably not. This is pretty subjective as some meads will clear faster than others while some may get a pectin haze that won't clear at all without some help.How many lbs of honey does a batch typically need? Are clarifying agents necessary?
#3
Posted 10 February 2011 - 01:10 PM
#4
Posted 17 February 2011 - 06:45 PM
Edited by EWW, 17 February 2011 - 06:46 PM.
#6
Posted 21 May 2011 - 11:32 AM
#7
Posted 27 May 2011 - 03:34 PM
#8
Posted 27 May 2011 - 04:08 PM
#9
Posted 11 October 2011 - 10:04 AM
#10
Posted 11 October 2011 - 04:25 PM
Avoid. I've seen more failed batches by new mazers with this yeast than all the others combined. Use a dry wine yeast like D-47 or 71B and use the OG to control sweetness. If it comes out dryer than you want, you can always sweeten it later.d. White Labs Sweet Mead Yeast, One Tube.
#11
Posted 26 October 2011 - 04:34 AM

#12
Posted 16 November 2011 - 09:17 AM

#13
Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:14 PM
#14
Posted 23 December 2011 - 12:43 AM
#15
Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:18 PM
#16
Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:24 PM
#17
*_Guest_BigBossMan_*
Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:31 PM
What are the differences between the yeasts, other than a higher fermentation temp for the 71B?I'll second D47 or 71B.
#18
Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:35 AM
#19
Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:06 AM
71B is a Beaujolais yeast so it tends to produce a mead that is ready to drink sooner and in fact does not age well sur lie. It is also very good for melomels made from berries. 71B can raise the pH of the must by metabolizing malic acid.D47 is generally used for white wines, particularly chardonnay. It has a more complex profile than 71B and develops the typical spicy, citrusy flavors when aged on the lees. It also has a more silky, viscous mouthfeel especially when aged sur lie. I think D47 makes a better cider than 71B and is also good for show meads.What are the differences between the yeasts, other than a higher fermentation temp for the 71B?
#20
Posted 11 December 2013 - 10:04 PM
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