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I was thinking of making an orange blossom honey and vanilla mead


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#1 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 08:53 AM

I would want something sweet enough for my gf to drink but high octane enough that it's not (|).Its my understanding that you heat up X amount of water, start dissolving honey in, never letting it actually boil. You also add in yeast nutrient at this point too, right?Also, how does yeast work for mead? I've messed around with sweet mead yeast, and it seems to just barely do anything then six months later you find it actually fermented! Champagne yeast adds a nice lightness and can handle high gravity, but it ferments so dry that anything you make tastes like champagne with hints of whatever you started with. If one were making a monster mead would one be able to nurse it along with supplemental honey as the ferment went on? How well does this work? What other yeasts are good for mead?Is botulism a risk, since honey as botulism spores in it?How many lbs of honey does a batch typically need? Are clarifying agents necessary?Thanks.

#2 strangebrewer

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 11:07 AM

I would want something sweet enough for my gf to drink but high octane enough that it's not (|).Its my understanding that you heat up X amount of water, start dissolving honey in, never letting it actually boil. You also add in yeast nutrient at this point too, right?Also, how does yeast work for mead? I've messed around with sweet mead yeast, and it seems to just barely do anything then six months later you find it actually fermented! Champagne yeast adds a nice lightness and can handle high gravity, but it ferments so dry that anything you make tastes like champagne with hints of whatever you started with. If one were making a monster mead would one be able to nurse it along with supplemental honey as the ferment went on? How well does this work? Thanks.

Start with checking the FAQ in this section. That should answer a lot of your questions and probably lead you to some more specific questions. There is also a calculation spreadsheet in there that is VERY handy for figuring out volumes, gravity, and gravity of various fruits.As for your last couple questions:

What other yeasts are good for mead?

There are LOTS of options here. I've been very happy with Lalvin yeasts for my meads. I've used D47 and 71B the most. There is nothing wrong with the Red Star or Lallemand but I have not used them as much to have an opinion.

Is botulism a risk, since honey as botulism spores in it?

Not that I am aware of.

How many lbs of honey does a batch typically need? Are clarifying agents necessary?

However many pounds of honey depends on what gravity you are aiming for. Check out the Melomel spreadsheet and it will answer that question. As for adding clarifiers. If you want it clear in less than 4 months I'd say yes. If you are willing to sit on it for longer than probably not. This is pretty subjective as some meads will clear faster than others while some may get a pectin haze that won't clear at all without some help.

#3 robsauce

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Posted 10 February 2011 - 01:10 PM

I'll second D47 or 71B.

#4 EWW

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Posted 17 February 2011 - 06:45 PM

I like k1v for higher alcohol meads and because it's simple to use since it isn't has picky about nutrient levels.

Edited by EWW, 17 February 2011 - 06:46 PM.


#5 fatbloke

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Posted 13 March 2011 - 03:42 AM

Listen to this mp3 and you'll get verbatim instructions for making an OB honey/vanilla mead..... from the great Ken Schramm himself.......

#6 Bwanna

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Posted 21 May 2011 - 11:32 AM

I made a mead with orange blossom honey and vanillaextract in secondary that came out excellent.

#7 MtnBrewer

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 03:34 PM

Make the orange blossom special, which uses OB honey, oranges and vanilla. Orange Blossom SpecialPrimary18 lbs. Orange Blossom HoneyWater to 5.2 gallons total volume (OG: 1.126)10g Lalvin 71B-1122SNASecondary10 lbs. Tangerines and/or Oranges cut into cut into 1/8 wedges*0.5 lbs. White raisins4 vanilla beans split lengthwiseOak*I used 6 lbs. of tangelos and 4 lbs. of clementines

#8 MtnBrewer

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Posted 27 May 2011 - 04:08 PM

That's the one. I actually just bottled that batch two nights ago. It's been in a keg for years. I think I forgot about the oak though. :facepalm:I should also mention that as written, that recipe comes out pretty sweet. I think it finishes in the 30's. So if you want it less sweet, just lower the OG accordingly.

#9 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 10:04 AM

I'm going to make my first mead soon and am going to stick with the old addage, keep it simple stupid. The plan: I. Startera. 12oz kroger clover honeyb. 4 cups of bottled waterc. A pinch of yeast nutrientd. White Labs Sweet Mead Yeast, One Tube. II. Meada. 9 lbs Trader Joe's Mesquite Honeyb. 2.5 gallons hhhhh-h-h-h-h-high quality H2Oc. More yeast nutrient, a little yeast energizer (in doses proportionate to the batch. III. Techniquea. Allow starter to embiggen its bad selfb. Bring 2.5 gallons of water to a boil, turn off heat. c. Dissolve nutrients, energizerd. Dissolve 9 freaking pounds of honeye. Cover and cool to the point that it's not going to scald me if I touch it.f. Pour it into the fermenter.g. When it's around 80 degrees, pitch yeast.h. Wait forever.

#10 MtnBrewer

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 04:25 PM

d. White Labs Sweet Mead Yeast, One Tube.

Avoid. I've seen more failed batches by new mazers with this yeast than all the others combined. Use a dry wine yeast like D-47 or 71B and use the OG to control sweetness. If it comes out dryer than you want, you can always sweeten it later.

#11 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 04:34 AM

I put it together yesterday. The easiest thing I've ever fermented... heat up water, scoop in honey, cool it down, pitch yeast. Hell, cleaning up after the fact took more thought than the mead itself. 3 cans of honey in 2.5 gallons of water gave me a gravity of right about 1.100: Posted Image Built up my starter a week beforehand to make sure I'd have a stronger chance of full fermentation... pitched the yeast when I went to bed, and I've got airlock bubbles already.

#12 Wayne B

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 09:17 AM

I'm curious - what's the gravity at now? Is it finished? Did the fermentation stick at a higher final than you were expecting? Inquiring minds want to know.... :scratch:

#13 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 14 December 2011 - 10:14 PM

It's slowing down a bit, but it's still slowly chugging along... when I hold a light up next to it, I can see CO2 coming out of solution.

#14 Genesee Ted

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 12:43 AM

How much botulism? *snark*I did notice in your OP though about waiting a long time. If you do it right, your fermentation should take no longer than 2 weeks. I have fermented 100 points in less than that. The quicker you get the fermentation done with meads, the better. Cleaner and faster mead will be your reward

#15 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:18 PM

I'm totally doing it wrong, but I just transferred to secondary. lolO.G.httpss://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/307706_10100509302101363_6215720_55184891_1248986475_n.jpgF.G.httpss://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/35523_10100979057048683_6215720_57259891_1980303280_n.jpgAlso, pro-tip, the easiest way to start your siphon:httpss://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/427911_10100979019214503_6215720_57259710_550412958_n.jpg

#16 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 07:24 PM

Additionally, I had a taste and spit, and the honey flavor was there, albeit with a bit of rubbing alcohol flavor as well. I'm thinking the rocket fuel factor should hopefully mellow out by Christmas.

#17 *_Guest_BigBossMan_*

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 09:31 PM

I'll second D47 or 71B.

What are the differences between the yeasts, other than a higher fermentation temp for the 71B?

#18 MyaCullen

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 08:35 AM

between those 2 specifically?

#19 MtnBrewer

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Posted 06 May 2012 - 09:06 AM

What are the differences between the yeasts, other than a higher fermentation temp for the 71B?

71B is a Beaujolais yeast so it tends to produce a mead that is ready to drink sooner and in fact does not age well sur lie. It is also very good for melomels made from berries. 71B can raise the pH of the must by metabolizing malic acid.D47 is generally used for white wines, particularly chardonnay. It has a more complex profile than 71B and develops the typical spicy, citrusy flavors when aged on the lees. It also has a more silky, viscous mouthfeel especially when aged sur lie. I think D47 makes a better cider than 71B and is also good for show meads.

#20 HokieTrismegistus

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Posted 11 December 2013 - 10:04 PM

Just bottled it. I did it wrong I fear. There's a great honey mellow sweetness up front followed by something like bitter phenolics and a hint of dyacetal. And alcohol. There is no subtlety about how the alcohol tastes here.Okay, it's just dawned on me. Often when I've tried moonshine I experience a lot of these same flavors.Tasting like watered down honey and paint thinner. Added an ice cube that melted and it's a bit more tolerable. Going to give it a couple of months in bottle.


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