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My Trip to Belgium


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#1 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:25 AM

Here’s the less than abbreviated trip report of my wife and my trip to Belgium. It was a combination sight seeing/beer tasting trip so it’s got a little bit of everything. We started out keeping notes of beers but that quickly deteriorated so I won’t even bother. Instead here’s the photos!We arrived in Brussels Belgium on the morning of Friday May 8th and after successfully negotiating the trains (which were super easy) arrived in our hotel. We ditched our stuff, and headed back out the door for lunch and our first Belgian beers in Belgium. Lunch was delicious as were the beers! We walked around a bit found a bottle shop and picked up some odds and ends and went back to our room for a nap before going back out for dinner and more beer exploration which included an evening trip to the Delirium café, more on that later. Here’s just one we picked up at the bottle shop and enjoyed back at the hotel room.Posted ImageDay 2 Touring Cantillon! We got up and hiked out to the museum/brewery that is Cantillon. There were no tours in English and my Flemish is pretty rusty so we opted for the self tour. Rumors of the self tour are true, they hand you a map and turn you loose in the brewery. First stop the mash tun, and yes this is the actual functioning mash tun they use.Posted ImageIt’s wild, everything is gear driven. The center rod turns spinning the rakes and walking the rakes around the circle. The pie shaped pieces in the bottom are the removable false bottom.Posted ImageThen there was this guy, always poking his head into everything to get a closer look. If you own a brewery I’d watch out for this one:Posted ImageThe boil kettle and that same guy:Posted ImageThis is the grain mill and gives you an idea of how everything is powered. Belts. No joke there are belts running everywhere with different sized pulleys on them to control the speed of rotation. The big motor is in the bottom left of the photo which powers the shaft above it. Off picture to the left is a belt that connects the shaft in the background. Note in the left of the photo the belt that goes through the floor to the mashing room below. Crazy.Posted ImageAnother boil kettle with a belt/gear driven stirrer. Each of those copper lids sitting on top had to weigh about 30lbs!Posted ImageInside that boil kettle.Posted ImageThe infamous Cantillon coolship!Posted ImageThe equally as infamous vents which go to the outside world which the breeze comes through and over the top of the wort, which is their only method of chilling.Posted Image

#2 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:25 AM

The barrel room! What a wonderfully smelling place this was. These oak barrels house 1, 2, and 3 year old lambic as well as their fruit lambics. My wife had to drag me out of herePosted ImagePosted ImageThis one was still fermenting!Posted ImageIt was also in the barrel room that we came across another couple speaking American English and were clearly brewers from their conversation so I had to ask. Turns out they were from Colorado too. I had to laugh at that.After the barrels was the bottling/cellaring room. Now that’s a lot of bottled lambic. All of those bottles are full and those stacks are 3 bottles deep. The bottles on the bottom have to have a LOT of weight on them and I have to say I’m impressed at just how much weight those bottles can handle! All in all what I learned touring Cantillon is that you don’t need a single scrap of stainless steel in your brewery to make good beer but you do need spiders. Lots of spiders.Posted ImageAfter leaving Cantillon we went out for lunch and then off to another visit to the Delirium Café. Our first visit was at night and the place was a madhouse. I was drinking random gueze’s that were on tap I’d never heard of, my wife was working her way through the list of trippels and all along there was a group of ever growing 18-20 year olds in the back who started out calm enough but after a couple hours and several boot’s (full liter glasses in the shape of a boot) they were singing, pounding on tables, and raising a general ruckus to which nobody seemed to be phased by. Fun but we decided a day trip was also in order to really check this place out.Posted ImageThen it was off to a good dinner and we crashed out for the night.Day 3 Free public transit day? Yup, on Sunday the city of Brussels closes down the city streets to traffic and the only way to get in and around it is by public transit, so they make it free. Taking that as a perfect excuse to wander and learn without monetary penalty we hopped the metro across town and then a tram out to the small town of Tervuren which is also the home of the Museum of Middle Africa which we visited. I’d recommend to anybody to go check out this Museum. Amazing. After the museum we stopped for a beer in town and then hopped the transit back into Brussels to find not only were the streets closed to vehicles but there was a HUGE fair going on throughout all the streets. It was wall to wall people but we wandered into the Grand Place and took the opportunity to look like the rest of the tourists and take photos of the buildings:Posted ImagePosted ImageLeaving the Grand Place we came across a bottle shop which just so happened to have a handful of these unlabeled bottles on their shelves. Upon picking the bottle up and inspecting the cap it turned out to be exactly as I had hoped….. the precious…. Westvleteren 12. At 6.50 euro a bottle they weren’t cheap but I bought 2 and took them back to the room where they went in our mini fridge to chill. 2 hours later, WOW what a beer. I’ve got a new benchmark for just how good a dark Belgian strong can be!Posted ImageWe also picked up a bottle of Cantillon’s Rose de Gambrinus before we realized that this bottle was corked in addition to being capped. Our hotel room was smart enough to equip us with a bottle opener to save the edges of their furniture but no cork screw in sight. Not one to be beaten by any bottle of beer I dismantled furniture with my trusty multi-tool until I found one with a long screw (the coffee table as it turned out) and fashioned a cork screw.Posted ImageAfterwards we went out for an incredible dinner at a nearby French restaurant. While the staff was none-to-excited at having to translate the occasional word in their menu I was none-to-interested in eating cow brains. In the end the food made up for the attitude. I had rabbit stewed in gueze and my wife had salmon with a wit-beer sauce over top. Dessert was a kreik sorbet. AMAZING.Day 4, time to move on. We got up early, packed up, and hopped the train to Brugge. It was only a 1 hour train ride but I could have stared out the window for 4 hours watching the countryside go by. One of the most amazing sights was the train station in Ghent. The Belgians love their bicycles and the Ghent train station showed this. While most train stations you would think would have a 10 story parking garage they had a 2 lot bicycle lot that was PACKED! No joke there easily could have been several thousand bicycles, yes thousand. It went by before I could get my camera out but it was astounding. Anyway an hour later we were in Brugge ditched out stuff at the bed and breakfast we were staying at and walked into town. Like most towns in Europe the center square is the heart of every city and here is Brugge’s square:Posted ImageWe stopped for the requisite couple beers and then headed back to make ourselves some dinner (this place had a kitchen we could use) and relax for the night.

#3 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:26 AM

Day 5: Brugge by bicycle. Our B&B also had free bicycles we could use so we hopped on the bikes and headed for town. Brugge not being that large we were on the opposite side in about 20 minutes and that includes some time getting misplaced on narrow roads and we came out on the canal to find a row of restored windmills. Pretty cool!Posted ImageBeing as it was close to lunch time it meant it was beer time again so off to visit the brewery in Brugge De Halve Mann. Again, brewery owners beware, this guy turns up in the craziest places:Posted ImageThough I have to admit, I like the way these people work religion into daily life:Posted ImageBelts! De Halve Maan only does some of their brewing on the premise anymore and most of the storage is offsite making room for the tour but still, everything in the old brewery is belt driven. Posted ImageNothing like traveling 5000 miles, walking into the beer paraphernalia room in a brewery and going what the….. yea… you figure it out.Posted ImageOne cool part of the tour is they take you up to the roof which has a pretty cool view over Brugge. Posted ImageThe old chiller. I know you’re thinking the same thing I’m thinking, that’s a lot of copper!Posted ImageThe old open fermenters:Posted ImageOld secondary tanks. To give some scale that ceiling is probably 20’ highPosted Image

#4 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:26 AM

After a cautious and somewhat wobbly bicycle ride home we took a break and got ready for dinner. Dinner tonight was at a place that specialized in food/beer parings. Needless to say it was incredible. Our reservation was at 7:30PM and we didn’t leave the restaurant until 11PM. Yes, THAT GOOD! The other benefit was it got us a walk home at night with nobody around and we got as good of a couple shots of the town at night as my little point and shoot could allow:Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImageDay 6 market day in Brugge. As it turned out our last day in Brugge was also market day so we wandered into town again to find the center filled with vendors selling meat, cheese, produce, flowers, and anything else you could have wanted! We decided to make dinner again for ourselves and wandered through the market looking for dinner ideas. While we opted for a more simple meal we could have chosen rabbit heads (just skinned, eyes still intact), cow tounges, a whole pigs head, cow brains, and other various organs. We opted for the plain old pork chops. Food in hand we stopped at the grocery store to get the last odds and ends where we again ran into this guy. Yes in case you’re wondering that is a case of Westmalle precariously bungee strapped to the cargo rack.Posted ImageDay 6 Getting the rental car and going to visit some monks. We got our rental car once the rental place opened back up at 2PM (got to love afternoon nap time) and were on our way out to the coast and around to go visit some monks in a small town in West Flanders. Not a bad tasting room for a monastery huh.Posted ImageWe started to wander about and check out the grounds when the weather had a different idea and it started to POUR so we snapped a few photos and ran back to the tasting room to wait out the weather.Posted ImagePosted ImageAnd of course a shot of my rental car:Posted ImageYea… right. Once the rain stopped we walked back out to be on our way to find this in the lot. What a beautiful machine. Getting back in my 2-door econo box Opel was never so difficult.We drove into the town of Ypres where our next bed and breakfast was, went to the restaurant around the corner, and crashed out for the night while the weather moved in and continued to pour.

#5 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:26 AM

Day 7 learning about hops. We got back in the car and drove out to the town of Poperinge which is where 70% of all hops in Belgium are grown. So of course they have a museum dedicated to hops!Posted ImageThere’s that guy again, this time he had to be removed from digging through a bail of hops:Posted ImageJust 1 of MANY hop fields around Poperinge. Posted ImageBack to Ypres the weather was clearing so we headed out to check out town. One thing not to be missed in Ypres is the Menin gate and the playing of ‘The Last Post’ which is done every day at 8PM. The Menin gate is a memorial to the men who died in the Ypres Salient area during WWI who have no known graves. On the inside and out of the arch are huge panels into which the names of those 54,896 men are carved.Posted ImageOn a lighter note the weather broke and we finally had a chance to walk town and take some photos. Hey look a church in the middle of town:Posted ImagePosted ImageDay 8 was our last day in Belgium as we headed to the airport that day and hopped a flight to Italy to catch up with family for another week. The beer consumed in Italy was… well… probably of the same quality stuff you put in your garden to drown slugs this time of year. But the wine was good. Anyway, that was it for Belgium. All in all it was a great country to go visit, with a never ending beer selection, doesn’t get much better than that!

#6 DrunkenPanther

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 09:45 AM

LOL awesome recap man!! Jealous!!Can't wait to see you guys at GABF!

#7 MoreAmmoPlz

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 10:05 AM

That was a great read about a very envious trip. Good thread.

Posted Image

That unsecured spigot would have gotten me thrown out of the brewery. :D

#8 ncbeerbrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 10:07 AM

Awesome post. Looks like you had a trip to remember. Those pictures were amazing. It confirmed things that I have read and heard of how they brew those belgian beers. I am sure you could taste a difference in the freshness there as opposed to what you get here. Nice editorial and thanks for sharing.

#9 HVB

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 10:28 AM

That looks like an amazing trip!! I would not want to come back!

#10 chuck_d

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 11:06 AM

Nice dude. I'm currently working on my photographs from my European Beer Tour in December. Looks like the powershot served you well over there. Belgium is awesome, I need to go back.

#11 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 11:18 AM

It was a great trip and one I'd recommend to anybody. The people were all great, getting around was easy, even driving was easy as everything is well marked, and then there is the beer. Wow. I love Italy and seeing my family there but I think I could have easily spent both weeks in Belgium with no regrets. It really was tough to leave!chuck_d: yea I've been a canon guy for a while now and my little point and shoot powershot was all I brought as I didn't want to deal with the larger one on such a trip. It does a great job considering that most of the locations we were in had poor lighting to say the least. With a real camera you could have really gone crazy in some of the places we were in.

#12 Jimmy James

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 12:19 PM

Awesome post Strangebrewer. Hope to see more pics next time I'm out in CO.

#13 pods8

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 12:36 PM

After the barrels was the bottling/cellaring room. Now that’s a lot of bottled lambic. All of those bottles are full and those stacks are 3 bottles deep. The bottles on the bottom have to have a LOT of weight on them and I have to say I’m impressed at just how much weight those bottles can handle! All in all what I learned touring Cantillon is that you don’t need a single scrap of stainless steel in your brewery to make good beer but you do need spiders. Lots of spiders.Posted Image

Are those sitting out in the open to the tour groups? Would have been tempting to pop open a bottle while wandering, haha.

#14 ANUSTART

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 01:00 PM

Damnit! Your porn site domain is blocked by my employer. :D *shakes fist at the IT overlords*

#15 MtnBrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 01:11 PM

Damnit! Your porn site domain is blocked by my employer. :D *shakes fist at the IT overlords*

With a name like "adventuretimmy", who could blame them?

#16 strangebrewer

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 01:12 PM

Are those sitting out in the open to the tour groups? Would have been tempting to pop open a bottle while wandering, haha.

Yup! I was afraid to touch them thinking I'd bring the whole wall down with my luck but they were right there within reach. What I thought I got a free drink with the tour? :(

Damnit! Your porn site domain is blocked by my employer. :cheers: *shakes fist at the IT overlords*

Not my fault your employer blocks out your competitors sites. :D

#17 MolBasser

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 02:55 PM

Awesome post.I LOLed at this:Posted Image

Not one to be beaten by any bottle of beer I dismantled furniture with my trusty multi-tool until I found one with a long screw (the coffee table as it turned out) and fashioned a cork screw.

BrewBasser

#18 ANUSTART

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 07:44 PM

Where are all the pics of the bottles of Lindeman's you drank?

#19 stellarbrew

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Posted 26 May 2009 - 07:51 PM

Nice pics and recap. Thanks for sharing those.

#20 Stout_fan

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Posted 27 May 2009 - 05:19 AM

Awesome post.I LOLed at this:Posted ImageBrewBasser

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