31 replies to this topic

[DgNt]

This weekend I'll be racking my first batch (Am Wheat) to a keg and force carbing. This is also the first time I have two reefer units dedicated to my obsession hobby. I was thinking about moving my primary from my fermenting chamber to the keezer and dropping the temp down from 65º to 45-40º the 24 hrs prior to racking. Would this cause additional flocculation and/or haze clearing?* If not, is it because 24hrs is it not enough time or not enough temp differential or just not worth it period?* Yes, I know it's a wheat and I'm not looking for a clear beer... if the answer is no, not worth it because it's a wheat, what about my Amber Ale that will be kegged in December.Thanks!

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

This weekend I'll be racking my first batch (Am Wheat) to a keg and force carbing. This is also the first time I have two reefer units dedicated to my obsession hobby. I was thinking about moving my primary from my fermenting chamber to the keezer and dropping the temp down from 65º to 45-40º the 24 hrs prior to racking. Would this cause additional flocculation and/or haze clearing?* If not, is it because 24hrs is it not enough time or not enough temp differential or just not worth it period?* Yes, I know it's a wheat and I'm not looking for a clear beer... if the answer is no, not worth it because it's a wheat, what about my Amber Ale that will be kegged in December.Thanks!

I usually do this for my wheats. 24 hours isn't enough to make the haze from wheat clear up in my experience (granted all of my wheats have used wyeast 3068 which is not very flocculant at all so maybe that helps keep my wheats hazy). It is good with regards to avoiding oxidation since cold beer absorbs O2 less readily than warm beer. It also means you quick carb and enjoy right away! :unsure:also - if you don't kill this keg over the course of a couple weeks you can expect to have some not so hazy wheat beer by the end of the keg. Not a big deal - just a heads up!As for the amber - for a beer like this I would normally leave it in primary for 2-3 weeks and then either a quick cold crash followed by secondary in cold storage or a slightly longer cold crash (4-7 days) followed by very careful racking to keg.

[SchwanzBrewer]

I don't really secondary. I let all my beers ferment for 1-2 weeks in the swamp cooler, then move them to the garage fridge still in primary. I let them sit in the fridge for 1-2 weeks before I keg them, and another 1-2 weeks carbonating before I serve. Cheers,Rich

[Deerslyr]

There is nothing wrong with cold crashing a wheat beer. This is an American Wheat after all, and clarity is an acceptable quality in the appearance. I normally don't secondary. I cold crash in my primary fermenter for about a week before transfering to a keg. Probably the lazy way to do it, but it works for me. The key here though is that the clarity is acceptable for the style. I've put the BJCP Guideline below... I put the text you are looking for in bold.

6D. American Wheat or Rye Beer Aroma: Low to moderate grainy wheat or rye character. Some malty sweetness is acceptable. Esters can be moderate to none, although should reflect American yeast strains. The clove and banana aromas common to German hefeweizens are inappropriate. Hop aroma may be low to moderate, and can have either a citrusy American or a spicy or floral noble hop character. Slight crisp sharpness is optional. No diacetyl. Appearance: Usually pale yellow to gold. Clarity may range from brilliant to hazy with yeast approximating the German hefeweizen style of beer. Big, long-lasting white head. Flavor: Light to moderately strong grainy wheat or rye flavor, which can linger into the finish. Rye versions are richer and spicier than wheat. May have a moderate malty sweetness or finish quite dry. Low to moderate hop bitterness, which sometimes lasts into the finish. Low to moderate hop flavor (citrusy American or spicy/floral noble). Esters can be moderate to none, but should not take on a German Weizen character (banana). No clove phenols, although a light spiciness from wheat or rye is acceptable. May have a slightly crisp or sharp finish. No diacetyl. Mouthfeel: Medium-light to medium body. Medium-high to high carbonation. May have a light alcohol warmth in stronger examples. Overall Impression: Refreshing wheat or rye beers that can display more hop character and less yeast character than their German cousins.

[Humperdink]

It is good with regards to avoiding oxidation since cold beer absorbs O2 less readily than warm beer.

Really? Links? I've always believed it to be the opposite, that a colder liquid is easier to get gas into solution, not harder.

[MtnBrewer]

It is good with regards to avoiding oxidation since cold beer absorbs O2 less readily than warm beer.

Other way around. Any gas will dissolve more readily into a cold liquid than a warm one. Just look at your carbonation chart.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

Other way around. Any gas will dissolve more readily into a cold liquid than a warm one. Just look at your carbonation chart.

hmmm - I could have sworn that there was an advantage to racking cold beer versus cool/warm.ETA: I may have been mixing up the fact that oxidation occurs at a slower rate with cold beer.

[MtnBrewer]

hmmm - I could have sworn that there was an advantage to racking cold beer versus cool/warm.ETA: I may have been mixing up the fact that oxidation occurs at a slower rate with cold beer.

That's definitely true. And I'm not saying don't rack cold, just that your explanation of why was a little off.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

That's definitely true. And I'm not saying don't rack cold, just that your explanation of why was a little off.

+1 for keeping me honest

[Deerslyr]

I'm a little confused on the temp/absorption debate. I think the following are all "True", but let me know if these statements are True or False:1. Liquid will absorb gas more readily in colder liquid.2. Oxygen is a gas.3. Carbon Dioxide is a gas.4. Both CO2 and O2 will absorb more readily into a colder liquid.5. If you purge a vessel of O2, fill it with beer and seal it, it will only absorb CO2.6. If you hook your vessel up to CO2 while it is cold, it will absorb CO2 more quickly than if the vessel was warm.7. If you hook your vessel up to O2 (not reccomended) while it is cold, it will absorb 02 more quickly than if the vessel was warm.So is it not true that the key is to purge the tank of O2 so that it is not competing with the CO2, but that once you do so, the CO2 will absorb quicker if the liquid is colder?

[MtnBrewer]

Also, it's not just a question of rate, but amount. You can dissolve more gas in a cold liquid.

[Humperdink]

I'm a little confused on the temp/absorption debate. I think the following are all "True", but let me know if these statements are True or False:1. Liquid will absorb gas more readily in colder liquid.2. Oxygen is a gas.3. Carbon Dioxide is a gas.4. Both CO2 and O2 will absorb more readily into a colder liquid.5. If you purge a vessel of O2, fill it with beer and seal it, it will only absorb CO2.6. If you hook your vessel up to CO2 while it is cold, it will absorb CO2 more quickly than if the vessel was warm.7. If you hook your vessel up to O2 (not reccomended) while it is cold, it will absorb 02 more quickly than if the vessel was warm.So is it not true that the key is to purge the tank of O2 so that it is not competing with the CO2, but that once you do so, the CO2 will absorb quicker if the liquid is colder?

My understanding is, yes.

[Deerslyr]

So we are all in agreement that the key is to purge the keg?

[Humperdink]

So we are all in agreement that the key is to purge the keg?

yes. It's the SOP at my place.

[MtnBrewer]

This came up a week or two ago. I do a partial purge. I slowly push some CO2 into the bottom of the keg for about a minute and then fill.

[Humperdink]

I push out the sanitizer with co2.

[MtnBrewer]

I push out the sanitizer with co2.

That wouldn't work for me because I'd have to push from the top down.

[Humperdink]

That wouldn't work for me because I'd have to push from the top down.

? what's your setup?

[MtnBrewer]

I don't make enough StarSan to completely fill a keg. I usually only have 2-3 gallons made up at any one time.

[DgNt]

I usually do this for my wheats. 24 hours isn't enough to make the haze from wheat clear up in my experience (granted all of my wheats have used wyeast 3068 which is not very flocculant at all so maybe that helps keep my wheats hazy). It is good with regards to avoiding oxidation since cold beer absorbs O2 less readily than warm beer. It also means you quick carb and enjoy right away! :sarcasm:also - if you don't kill this keg over the course of a couple weeks you can expect to have some not so hazy wheat beer by the end of the keg. Not a big deal - just a heads up!As for the amber - for a beer like this I would normally leave it in primary for 2-3 weeks and then either a quick cold crash followed by secondary in cold storage or a slightly longer cold crash (4-7 days) followed by very careful racking to keg.

I guess I'll go ahead and do it since my keezer is empty right now. In the future it may not be too easy to do with full kegs. I just plugged her in and I'll drop the beer in tomorrow evening (20 days from pitching) and will rack on Saturday morning as I brew the IPA that will use the same fermenting bucket... not quite brave enough to pitch onto the yeast cake but maybe next time. At a minimum, it will be colder and it will carb a little faster.Cheers!