16 replies to this topic

[DubbelEntendre]

So, I'm living in the dark ages and don't have a ball valve on my boil kettle. I really want to change that. I don't know how to weld, so I would need to outsource that, which isn't a big deal.I am capable enough at soldering.I'm not sold on the Weld-B-Gone. I have the Kewler Kitz, and it works well enough. I'm just leery about having boiling water without a more robust seal.

[stellarbrew]

So, I'm living in the dark ages and don't have a ball valve on my boil kettle. I really want to change that. I don't know how to weld, so I would need to outsource that, which isn't a big deal.I am capable enough at soldering.I'm not sold on the Weld-B-Gone. I have the Kewler Kitz, and it works well enough. I'm just leery about having boiling water without a more robust seal.

IMHO, the most durable and best quality solution is to hire an experienced welder to tig weld on a stainless steel threaded coupling, and back-fill for a sanitary weld.

[ANUSTART]

Why arent you sold on the Weld-B-Gone? It's easy, and it works. What more do you want?

[RommelMagic]

Welding is nice.Silver soldering is possible, but difficult.I built my own weldless bulkheads for all my vessels. I have had thousands (well maybe not thousand(s), but at least a thousand if not more) of gallons of wort pass thru these bulkheads. Haven't had trouble yet. I do run orings on the inside and out. I went this route because i was broke at the time and welders were pricey around these parts. This was before Swagman. I just feel folks shy away from weldless because they don't know how to use them. And ive stuck w/them because they work. Even now i have money to have them welded, i see no point in it.

Why arent you sold on the Weld-B-Gone? It's easy, and it works. What more do you want?

Amen brothers

[stellarbrew]

I also have heard nothing but good things about the Weld-B-Gone. But I know for sure that you can't go wrong with a good sanitary tig weld.

[BFB]

Why arent you sold on the Weld-B-Gone? It's easy, and it works. What more do you want?

This

Amen brothers

This

I also have heard nothing but good things about the Weld-B-Gone. But I know for sure that you can't go wrong with a good sanitary tig weld.

ThisAnd to add...I have nothing against welded fittings. If you either know someone who can do it...or can do it yourself, that would probably be the way to go (BTW...I can do both, but went with weld b gones at the time for the time and cost savings).BUT, there is absolutley nothing wrong with a weld b gone. I just looked back at my brew sessions. Since I started keeping track, i have 63 recorded sessions with the same weld b gones on my mash tun and brew kettle. Same o-rings too....no problems.

[DubbelEntendre]

You've all sold me. I have the weld free Kewler Kitz on my mash tun and it doesn't give me any problems. Taking the statement a step further, it has never leaked and was a breeze to install. I guess I was just looking for some reassurance on them and the $50 price tag.Question on drilling through the stainless. Anything special that I need to do to ensure there is no future rust/corrosion where I'm drilling?

[BFB]

You've all sold me. I have the weld free Kewler Kitz on my mash tun and it doesn't give me any problems. Taking the statement a step further, it has never leaked and was a breeze to install. I guess I was just looking for some reassurance on them and the $50 price tag.Question on drilling through the stainless. Anything special that I need to do to ensure there is no future rust/corrosion where I'm drilling?

I drilled mine with a hole saw. The instructions will say use a 7/8" bit or hole saw. Hole saws...not being precise machining tools, are not perfect. i use a 3/4" hole saw and after touching up the hole, the weld b-gones fit perfect. I've made many kettles for fellow brewers with the same saw with no issues. When drilling remember slow speed and heavy pressure. I use PAM for lube. You can use a twenty some dollar step drill, but a less tha ten dollar hole saw will do the same job just as many times.

[DubbelEntendre]

I drilled mine with a hole saw. The instructions will say use a 7/8" bit or hole saw. Hole saws...not being precise machining tools, are not perfect. i use a 3/4" hole saw and after touching up the hole, the weld b-gones fit perfect. I've made many kettles for fellow brewers with the same saw with no issues. When drilling remember slow speed and heavy pressure. I use PAM for lube. You can use a twenty some dollar step drill, but a less tha ten dollar hole saw will do the same job just as many times.

Good call on the smaller diameter hole saw. I just drilled out a brass collar on an old Warsteiner tower for my Dad's keggerater, and the hole was a touch larger than I wanted it to be due to the play of the saw on the surface of the metal. I wouldn't have thought to downsize the saw diameter to make up for the imprecise nature of the tool though. Looks like we have a project for Saturday and brewing with new toys on Sunday. Next step: a pump so I can whirlpool. What a great hobby!

[BrewerGeorge]

...Question on drilling through the stainless. Anything special that I need to do to ensure there is no future rust/corrosion where I'm drilling?

You've used this kettle over fire before, I take it? That could be a problem. It certainly was for me. The fire had hardened the stainless significantly, and I had a HELL of a time getting through it with a hole saw. IIRC, it took two saws to get the job done. Once I started there was no turning back, but if I had known beforehand how difficult it was going to be I would probably have taken it somewhere to be drilled. If the place you're planning to drill through has been turned blueish by heat, you might want to consider that.

[DubbelEntendre]

You've used this kettle over fire before, I take it? That could be a problem. It certainly was for me. The fire had hardened the stainless significantly, and I had a HELL of a time getting through it with a hole saw. IIRC, it took two saws to get the job done. Once I started there was no turning back, but if I had known beforehand how difficult it was going to be I would probably have taken it somewhere to be drilled. If the place you're planning to drill through has been turned blueish by heat, you might want to consider that.

Still shiny where I'm looking to drill. I fire the kettle on the stove top, so I don't have too many flames shooting up the sides. I should be good.

[ANUSTART]

I had a fairly easy experience drilling the hole. I sprayed it with olive oil first. I used a smaller diameter hole saw than the shank. I believe it was tungsten carbide, but not 100% sure, I know it was meant for steel though. Then went at it with the cone shaped dremel grinding bit until the shank barely fit through. The dremel also took the burrs off before I put the o-ring on cause those will shred through it. I tested with several gallons of water and tightened until it didnt leak a drop overnight. I've never had to adjust it since.ETA: If your keggle has holes in the skirt, don't put the valve right above one or you might melt the rubber handle and/or o-ring.

[SWAGMAN]

I Tig... I charge 12.00 to sanitary tig weld a coupler in a keg or pot. It is back flow not back weld you flow the argon to the backside of the weld to keep the oxygen from forming what is called sugar. I turned down the couplers half its length to one inch dia. Drilling is no problem I buy a good brand of hole saw's. Either Milwaukee or starett, the one I'm using now has drilled a lot of kegs no lube about mid. speed. Yes stainless that has been heat treated can be a bear. A bit about silver solder. I use silverbrite and its acid. I use a 85 watt soldering iron no torch, a torch you can over heat before you know it. I started using solder on stainless gas tanks for the fittings several years ago. You need a large iron and in some cases it helps to pre heat a small amount with a torch just don't go crazy. The solder will lay out like butter I build a small dam around the item being soldered just for strength. But where I can I tig weld.Eliminate the possibility of failure.Dominus VobiscumSwagman

[DubbelEntendre]

Thanks everyone. I went with the Weld-B-Gone after all the good words on it. Installed it on Friday, it held 7 gallons for 8+ hours with no signs of leaking. Here it is on the stove bringing my American Blonde up to boiling:

[boo boo]

I only have a dozen or so brews done in my kettle since I used a weld-be-gone valve assy. in my kettle.No problems. If I were able to get it welded in a maner acceptable with the procedures that swagman uses,I would have gone that route.But I am happy right now with what I have.

[brewhead]

Welding is nice.Silver soldering is possible, but difficult.I built my own weldless bulkheads for all my vessels. I have had thousands (well maybe not thousand(s), but at least a thousand if not more) of gallons of wort pass thru these bulkheads. Haven't had trouble yet. I do run orings on the inside and out. I went this route because i was broke at the time and welders were pricey around these parts. This was before Swagman. I just feel folks shy away from weldless because they don't know how to use them. And ive stuck w/them because they work. Even now i have money to have them welded, i see no point in it.

ditto - never had a problem