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#1 MakeMeHoppy

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:15 PM

I just got a 2l flask to make starter as I've mainly used dry yeast. I got a flask because I liked the idea of boiling the wort and not having to transfer to another container. Just some procedural questions. If I pour the DME thru a funnel will it mix well enough by just shaking or swirling the flask? Does the flask need to air cool for a while or can I put it immediately into a water or ice water bath to cool?Not being sure tonight I used a seperate pot to boil and cool the DME and then poured thru a sanitized funnel into the sanitized flask.

#2 djinkc

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:39 PM

Borosilicate/Pyrex is supposed to take thermal shock pretty well. I've never tried boiling a starter in one of those and chilling. Supposedly they will take a flame better than electric stove elements because of the localized heat...I went a different route.

#3 Lonnie Mac

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:51 PM

I have been taking mine from boiling to ice for many years... My 2L and mostly my 5L...Thank gawd they work as advertised! Never had a problem with them...Although I NEVER and I do mean NEVER boil my DME in it... I boil my DME in a separate SS pot. In the flask I have boiling water (about 1L) with tinfoil on top...I then transfer the boiling DME into the flask and straight to ice... A lot of folks boil their DME in the flask but the first time you let that DME burn to the bottom, you will never do that again!Stupid me...

#4 3rd party JKor

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 07:35 PM

I boil in my flask and take it straight to a cold water bath. Nuthins blowed up yet.

#5 RommelMagic

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 04:12 AM

I boil in my flask and take it straight to a cold water bath. Nuthins blowed up yet.

+1It's just a little bit of a pain to watch for boilovers. Foaming agent comes in handy

#6 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 04:16 AM

+1It's just a little bit of a pain to watch for boilovers. Foaming agent comes in handy

hehe - yeup

#7 MakeMeHoppy

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 06:30 AM

I boil in my flask and take it straight to a cold water bath. Nuthins blowed up yet.

do you pre-mix the dme/water before you put it in the flask OR is shaking and swirling enough to get the dme to disolve within the flask?

#8 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 06:55 AM

In the past I;ve waited for the water to boil to put it in, but I think if I do it in the future, I'll just shake it with warm water. I did that when I was canning some wort recently and it worked well.

#9 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 08:13 AM

Also, pouring DME into a flask of boiling water is a PITA.

#10 MakeMeHoppy

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 08:56 AM

Thanks for all the replies. I just want to make this process as simple as possible. I'll give a try mixing when the water is warm and watching for boil overs and burning.

#11 MtnBrewer

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 09:30 AM

You should be able to go straight from boiling to ice water. However, here's what I do. I just bring it to a boil (add some foam control so it doesn't boil over) and then turn off the heat and cover it with foil. I let it sit for 15 minutes and then put it in the sink to cool down. When it's cool, I pitch the yeast and put it on the stir plate. I also make sure that the foil is loose so that plenty of oxygen can get in.

#12 Stout_fan

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 09:40 AM

do you pre-mix the dme/water before you put it in the flask OR is shaking and swirling enough to get the dme to disolve within the flask?

You're going to be putting it on a stirplate eventually.The stirbar is already in there.So use a stirplate to get the DME into solution.That's what stirplates do!

#13 MakeMeHoppy

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 10:18 AM

You're going to be putting it on a stirplate eventually.The stirbar is already in there.So use a stirplate to get the DME into solution.That's what stirplates do!

Didn't think of that as I do not have a stirplate yet. However, I would have thought of using the stirplate only after pitching the yeast. I was really concerned about having big clumps of DME in the flask and no good way to break them up......I have another question on starters. I see that the opinions are mixed about decanting the fermented wort off the starter or just pitching the whole thing. Most of the complaints about pitching the whole starter are that it is bad tasting due to post fermentation oxygenation. But doesn't oxygen effect the shelf life of beer more then an immediate effect on the taste. I would think the main reason a starter tastes bad is because it is made from only base malt, has no hops, is fermented in a couple of days and tasted at 70 degrees with lots of suspended yeast. So I'll plan to pitch the whole starter and see how it goes.

#14 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 10:44 AM

Add the DME first, even the moisture from warm water is enough to gum things up while you're pouring the DME in. Pour the hottest tap water you have in on top of it and shake it vigorously. There won't be any clumps left. Add your stir bar, then boil it up, 10 minutes or so. Chill, pitch yeast and cover with foil.

#15 chuck_d

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 01:00 PM

Pour the hottest tap water you have in on top of it and shake it vigorously.

No don't. Use cold water from the tap for anything that involves consumables. You don't want to be pulling all the nasty stuff from your pipes into there. Even legally lead-free plumbing can have up to 8% lead, and older plumbing can surely have more. It's recommended that you always use cold tap water for anything you're going to drink or eat.Edit: linkage - https://www.epa.gov/...lead/index.html

Edited by chuck_d, 20 May 2009 - 01:09 PM.


#16 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 01:15 PM

No don't. Use cold water from the tap for anything that involves consumables. You don't want to be pulling all the nasty stuff from your pipes into there. Even legally lead-free plumbing can have up to 8% lead, and older plumbing can surely have more. It's recommended that you always use cold tap water for anything you're going to drink or eat.Edit: linkage - https://www.epa.gov/...lead/index.html

In that case, I'll continue living on the edge. I'm pretty sure my copper pipe doesn't have 8% lead.

#17 chuck_d

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 01:20 PM

In that case, I'll continue living on the edge. I'm pretty sure my copper pipe doesn't have 8% lead.

Check out the link. "The most common problem is with brass or chrome-plated brass faucets and fixtures which can leach significant amounts of lead into the water, especially hot water." And it's not just the pipes themselves. I suppose I should have said plumbing instead of pipes. Solder & joints can be problems too.

#18 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 May 2009 - 01:31 PM

That reminds me, I've been meaning to ask where people are getting their water analysis. Good thread topic...

#19 MtnBrewer

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Posted 21 May 2009 - 07:58 AM

That reminds me, I've been meaning to ask where people are getting their water analysis. Good thread topic...

Either from your water supplier or you can send a sample to Ward Labs. The test used to cost $15; not sure what it is now.


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