welcome gnef, good to see you over hereI am currently only a batch sparger, and have done so for quite a while with good results.With that said, I've been contemplating building a sparge assembly and replace my stainless braid with cpvc. Thing is, I would need another pump as I am on a single tier right now, and like not having heating water above my head.I may coincide this with building an entirely new mash tun that will be slightly larger, that way I can batch sparge for my small beers, and fly sparge the larger gravity beers or larger volume beers.The way I have it set up in my head is to go by volumes. I know it isn't as good as gravity, but I figure I will check the gravity pre-boil for the first half dozen batches just to check my numbers, and once I have things dialed in, just go by volumes
How do you fly sparge?
#61
Posted 29 March 2009 - 05:34 PM
#62
Posted 29 March 2009 - 08:20 PM
I care. I want to do the best that I can. Batch sparging isn't doing the best that you can.Sure, it really doesn't matter....it still ends up beer, but that is not the point to me.I'm weird like that.BrewBasserBut it is, completely and entirely, a mechanical process. All sparging is doing is extracting sugars from grains. It doesn't change the nature of the sugars whatsoever. It's only a matter of *how much* of these sugars are extracted.Again, WHO CARES which is theoretically more efficient? At the homebrewing level, efficiency differences are basically meaningless economically - and economics is the entire argument for sparge technique. At the end of the day, it's about what is most convenient for the brewer and what best suits his/her system. All of these silly claims of superiority of one method over another are just that - silly.
#63
Posted 29 March 2009 - 08:30 PM
#64
Posted 30 March 2009 - 04:55 AM
#65
Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:51 AM
I've recently went from batch to something similar to this. I have a new MT so I haven't gotten everything tweaked yet but I'm hoping to increase my horrible efficiency. I went from a round cooler and round manifold to a rectangular cooler with a large SS braid.Think I should build a rectangular manifold?I have settled on the 'pulse' type sparging. It works well, doesn't loose a lot of time compared to letting the MT drain fully, and I don't have to pay incredibly close attention to flow rates. We wait until we start to see the grain bed then add a pitcher or two of hot from the HLT to the MT. My efficiencies are usually in the high 80%'s.
#67
Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:55 AM
I saw that the other day...nice work!My concern is will my SS braid do well when fly sparging....I just did one brew with it and batch sparged. Worked great but I wonder if I try to fly sparge will I get channeling issues, efficiency probs, etc...See my upgrade and thoughts here.
#68 *_Guest_Blktre_*
Posted 30 March 2009 - 11:06 AM
Your braid will not work well unless you build it to your tuns geometry. Otherwise you can get channeling and eff. will suffer. So yes, build a rectangular type manifold. This is where i say to build copper manifolds (CPVC works well too) from the get go. When built correctly you can batch and fly sparge, its virtually indestructible, and doesn't cost but a few extra bucks to build vs a braid setup.I saw that the other day...nice work!My concern is will my SS braid do well when fly sparging....I just did one brew with it and batch sparged. Worked great but I wonder if I try to fly sparge will I get channeling issues, efficiency probs, etc...
#69
Posted 30 March 2009 - 03:29 PM
Yup. Palmer's "How to Brew" has a great section on manifold design. How to maximize and avoid some potential problems too. Great resource, and there's an online version. Just google "how to brew"Your braid will not work well unless you build it to your tuns geometry. Otherwise you can get channeling and eff. will suffer. So yes, build a rectangular type manifold. This is where i say to build copper manifolds (CPVC works well too) from the get go. When built correctly you can batch and fly sparge, its virtually indestructible, and doesn't cost but a few extra bucks to build vs a braid setup.
#70 *_Guest_BigBossMan_*
Posted 30 March 2009 - 03:48 PM
I never ventured into all grain. Educate me. What ware the advantages of fly vs batch?Edit: NVM. This was already explained.:)You must forget my reputation from the previous board about this subject.I have always, and will continue to, disparage batch sparging. It is just what I do.People who know me understand this and just move along.I guess if you didn't know me you would be put off......BrewBasser
Edited by BigBossMan, 30 March 2009 - 03:50 PM.
#71
Posted 30 March 2009 - 03:57 PM
#72
Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:03 PM
Hey, we have the same cooler, same manifold AND the same mash method!My efficiencies are a little higher. The last couple of batches have been low-to-mid 90s. You must be doing something terribly wrong.I have settled on the 'pulse' type sparging. It works well, doesn't loose a lot of time compared to letting the MT drain fully, and I don't have to pay incredibly close attention to flow rates. We wait until we start to see the grain bed then add a pitcher or two of hot from the HLT to the MT. My efficiencies are usually in the high 80%'s.
#73
Posted 31 March 2009 - 03:37 AM
Hey, we have the same cooler, same manifold AND the same mash method!My efficiencies are a little higher. The last couple of batches have been low-to-mid 90s. You must be doing something terribly wrong.
#74
Posted 31 March 2009 - 04:43 AM
This is exactly the point I am at now. My next brew will be sparged until I meet the gravity I am looking for. I have owned a refractometer for several years, and also have the "good" PH strips. I haven't used either nearly enough.I used to sparge until I got my final volume until I began hanging out at a local micro. The brewer there sparges until target gravity is met. Whatever volume he collected is what they end up with. In theory, if your processes haven't changed, and your ingrediants haven't changed, your efficiency shouldn't change and you should be able to just sparge to a volume and get the same results. But, by sparging to a set gravity, you can compensate for any change in process or ingredients. Maltsters aren't perfect and the stuff they ship to you may have changed from the last time you used it. That was how it was explained to me anyway. Since I started hanging with this brewer I have purchased a refractometer, which makes sparging to a target gravity more practical.
#75
Posted 31 March 2009 - 01:37 PM
Which is why I'm glad not to be a commercial brewer. I also like to cook, but don't feel like I need a restaurant to do it.The efficiency (sp?) is better with fly. Every single pro brewer flys (every single one), it is just cooler any way.....The list goes on.BrewBasser
#76
Posted 31 March 2009 - 01:40 PM
Why isn't batch sparging "doing the best that you can"? The beer that I make with batch sparging is as good or better than the beer I was making fly sparging. Isn't that the best I can do?I care. I want to do the best that I can. Batch sparging isn't doing the best that you can.
#77
Posted 31 March 2009 - 04:54 PM
#78 *_Guest_Matt C_*
Posted 01 April 2009 - 04:37 PM
+1 this is what I do,except I don't worry about gravity until the full volume in the kettle is reached, then I check. I have never had a tannin extraction as I sparge with a few tsp of gypsum added in order to lower the ph enuff...been working so far and I wont mess with perfectionI do this too. I'll check my runoff gravity every so often just to make sure I'm not getting in trouble, but it has never been a problem. I usually get pretty close to my target preboil gravity but I don't sweat it if I miss it.
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