37 replies to this topic

[Deerslyr]

My next session is going to be a Hefe with 50% 2 Row and 50% wheat (5 lbs each). How much, by weight, of Rice Hulls should I be using? I've not seen a rule of thumb to go by and I certainly don't want a stuck sparge.

[BrewerGeorge]

I don't weight them. I'd use about 4-5 big hand fulls for that grist bill. Reaching into the bag and grabbing as much as I can hold in my fist = 1 handful.

[Deerslyr]

I don't weight them. I'd use about 4-5 big hand fulls for that grist bill. Reaching into the bag and grabbing as much as I can hold in my fist = 1 handful.

Ok... so for me that would probably equate to 5 to 6 handfulls for my stubby little hands! I've got to think that would only be about 1/4 of a pound, given how light they are, but probably won't be a bad idea to have them on hand.George, is your tun cylindrical or rectangular? Not sure if this makes a difference, but worth asking.

[zymot]

Last wheat I did, 60% wheat, I decided to not use rice hulls unless things got stuck. Nothing got stuck and I did not need them.If you use them, rinse them off first and use hot water. You do not need them for the conversion part of your mash. Put them in right before you start the run off and put them in wet. They will suck up your wort and thus cut into your efficiency.Try 1/4 to 1/2 lb and see if works.IMHO, the concern that wheat causes stuck mashes is overblown. Not a myth, but too much anxiety.zymot

[Gumbo Leviathan]

If I am brewing something with more than ~30% non-barley I just buy the 1lb bag of rice hulls and toss the whole thing in. I probably dont need to use the entire 1lb, but since it only costs about $1, and I doubt I would remember I have any laying around for another brew, I just use the whole thing.I havent been able to tell if there was an advantage to pre-soaking them or not. Sometimes I do, sometimes I dont. If I dont, I try to guesstimate how much extra sparge water I will need to compensate for the absorption. Usually an extra 1/4 to 1/2 gallon is enough...

[DubbelEntendre]

I agree. Eight years of brewing and never used them & never had one stick, but I also think it depends on the brewing systems.

I've only had one stuck sparge, and it was enough of a headache to use them as a safety precaution. I usually use about 1/2 lb. for a 5 gallon batch where wheat is 25%+ of the grist.

[Jeff]

I agree with the post that they are very cheap. I use a whole pound at a time since that's what size they come in.

[Deerslyr]

My cousin is coming over and he has never seen an AG brew session. Last thing I want to do is have a stuck sparge! I'll play it safe and go with the rice hulls. Thanks for all the info guys! I'll try to compensate my sparge water amount to account for the rice hulls.

[BrewerGeorge]

My cousin is coming over and he has never seen an AG brew session. Last thing I want to do is have a stuck sparge! I'll play it safe and go with the rice hulls. Thanks for all the info guys! I'll try to compensate my sparge water amount to account for the rice hulls.

I've had stuck sparges when I haven't used hulls and when I have used them. It's very unpredictable. However, I split a 55# bag of hulls with another guy a few years ago for about $10 each. Because I have an effectively unlimited supply of them, I toss a few hand fulls in with any brew with wheat or a flaked adjunct.The biggest problem with malted wheat, though, is that it tends to "cap" the mash with protein, and rice hulls don't really help with that. I call it "capping" when the mash builds up a layer to sticky protein on top as you recirc. If you recirc a long time, it will make sort of a pellicle of gray protein that's slimy and sticky and doesn't let wort through. You end up with the mash goods compacted below it and clear wort on top. Rice hulls don't help with that because they're mixed into the grains. If your mash gets capped, the best thing to do is gently rake to break up the layer. (I've been meaning to purchase one of the small hand-held garden rakes for this, but haven't gotten around to it. I usually just use the mash paddle.)Flaked adjuncts - especially rye and oats - will gum up the whole mash goods so wort won't flow well through any of it. That's where the rice hulls really help a lot.

[DubbelEntendre]

I've had stuck sparges when I haven't used hulls and when I have used them. It's very unpredictable. However, I split a 55# bag of hulls with another guy a few years ago for about $10 each. Because I have an effectively unlimited supply of them, I toss a few hand fulls in with any brew with wheat or a flaked adjunct.The biggest problem with malted wheat, though, is that it tends to "cap" the mash with protein, and rice hulls don't really help with that. I call it "capping" when the mash builds up a layer to sticky protein on top as you recirc. If you recirc a long time, it will make sort of a pellicle of gray protein that's slimy and sticky and doesn't let wort through. You end up with the mash goods compacted below it and clear wort on top. Rice hulls don't help with that because they're mixed into the grains. If your mash gets capped, the best thing to do is gently rake to break up the layer. (I've been meaning to purchase one of the small hand-held garden rakes for this, but haven't gotten around to it. I usually just use the mash paddle.)Flaked adjuncts - especially rye and oats - will gum up the whole mash goods so wort won't flow well through any of it. That's where the rice hulls really help a lot.

That is good information about the "capping". My stuck sparge came during a pumpkin ale session, and I got this sticky layer on top that really gummed up the works. I was hoping to use rice hulls to fix that, but now I know not to bother. Can you skim off that top layer altogether so it doesn't reform, or would that mess with your efficiency?

[djinkc]

I've had stuck sparges when I haven't used hulls and when I have used them. It's very unpredictable. However, I split a 55# bag of hulls with another guy a few years ago for about $10 each. Because I have an effectively unlimited supply of them, I toss a few hand fulls in with any brew with wheat or a flaked adjunct.The biggest problem with malted wheat, though, is that it tends to "cap" the mash with protein, and rice hulls don't really help with that. I call it "capping" when the mash builds up a layer to sticky protein on top as you recirc. If you recirc a long time, it will make sort of a pellicle of gray protein that's slimy and sticky and doesn't let wort through. You end up with the mash goods compacted below it and clear wort on top. Rice hulls don't help with that because they're mixed into the grains. If your mash gets capped, the best thing to do is gently rake to break up the layer. (I've been meaning to purchase one of the small hand-held garden rakes for this, but haven't gotten around to it. I usually just use the mash paddle.)Flaked adjuncts - especially rye and oats - will gum up the whole mash goods so wort won't flow well through any of it. That's where the rice hulls really help a lot.

The only time I've really seen that "cap" was with 30% Oats in a PA. And it was a mess, but I just kept breaking it up and it probably added an hour that day.At my place the least problems come from white malted wheat at up to 50%, malted rye up to 30% and oats (malted or flaked) usually in an oatmeal stout or porter around 10%. That's without rice hulls. But, I try to keep them around and will throw in a few handfulls when using any of these. Cheap insurance - I need to get some again.

[zymot]

Once upon a time, I had some rice hulls stored in my beer room. I fed 'em to my goats...

And he hasn't had a stuck goat since. Proof that rice hulls work.

[Stout_fan]

And he hasn't had a stuck goat since. Proof that rice hulls work.

good one!

[Stout_fan]

My last brew was 21 lbs base malt and 3.5 lbs white wheat malt.Although not called for, I threw in two cupped hands worth of hulls.I guess thats about 2 cups total.No sticking.I did see George's gray protein cap. It drained OK, buy generally at that point you cut the mash, or rake it as George said.I did not do a water allowance for the hulls. Has anybody a number for this?Also I've heard some folks pre-wash the hulls. I can't see the benefit, but am open to someone with experience on the topic.

[DownEastBrewer]

Put them in right before you start the run off and put them in wet. They will suck up your wort and thus cut into your efficiency.

Hmmm.. Anyone else with input or experience with rice hulls cutting into eff. if put in dry?I brewed a 45% wheat beer a couple of weeks ago, and used rice hulls (1/2 a lb for a 13 or 14 lb grain bill).My eff. is usually in the mid-60's. However, this batch was at 56%. Would those rice hulls change the eff. that much?

[DubbelEntendre]

My last brew was 21 lbs base malt and 3.5 lbs white wheat malt.Although not called for, I threw in two cupped hands worth of hulls.I guess thats about 2 cups total.No sticking.I did see George's gray protein cap. It drained OK, buy generally at that point you cut the mash, or rake it as George said.I did not do a water allowance for the hulls. Has anybody a number for this?Also I've heard some folks pre-wash the hulls. I can't see the benefit, but am open to someone with experience on the topic.

I don't have numbers, but if you wash and pre-soak the rice hulls, they will already be saturated when you introduce them to the mash, so they should soak up almost no wort.

[realbeerguy]

I don't weight them. I'd use about 4-5 big hand fulls for that grist bill. Reaching into the bag and grabbing as much as I can hold in my fist = 1 handful.

ThisRice Hulls = Sparge insurance, 2-3 handfullsI add them with the strike water to get them wet, then mash in as normal.