8 replies to this topic

[BarelyBrews]

I usually get the boil where i want it,then add the first addition(bittering)hops.Todays batch was a pale ale that had a FWH addition and NO Bittering addition.My next addition was at 8minutes before flameout.I did not like the roll of the boil after a few minutes in, and increased the gas(the boil) a little.I beleive my IBU's from the FWH were already locked in correct?? so flame adjustment should not make any difference until my next hop addition?? anyhow this is what i did. My OG target was 1.055 and i got a 1.058 so im happy there.Looks to be good beer.

[MyaCullen]

I usually get the boil where i want it,then add the first addition(bittering)hops.Todays batch was a pale ale that had a FWH addition and NO Bittering addition.My next addition was at 8minutes before flameout.I did not like the roll of the boil after a few minutes in, and increased the gas(the boil) a little.I beleive my IBU's from the FWH were already locked in correct?? so flame adjustment should not make any difference until my next hop addition?? anyhow this is what i did. My OG target was 1.055 and i got a 1.058 so im happy there.Looks to be good beer.

very good question, one to which I don't know the answer, but am curious to know as well, with FWH, I have always just left them in throughout, did you?

[BarelyBrews]

Yes gents, i leave the FWH in for the entirety of the boiling process.Yes matt, basically i am .Hoping for some information.I beleive i was correct, that IBU's were locked at that point and could not become less bitterness/nor i doubt more.

[djinkc]

IIRC the protein reacts with the hop oils and acids to retain things that won't happen with a simple 60 min addition since break material hasn't had a chance to start coagulating. Something like that anyway.I wouldn't worry. FWH is a strange one anyway and people figure the IBU's from it different ways. I think you're fine. You just have to use the technique a few times to get a feel for what it does on your system. I haven't seen much difference from a short 65 min boil to a 90+ min boil using FWH.

Edited by dj in kc, 14 July 2010 - 07:51 PM.

[BarelyBrews]

I wouldn't worry. FWH is a strange one anyway and people figure the IBU's from it different ways. I think you're fine. You just have to use the technique a few times to get a feel for what it does on your system. I haven't seen much difference from a short 65 min boil to a 90+ min boil using FWH.

Thanks, that is info i was hoping for.

[MtnBrewer]

As far as I know, adjusting the flame will have no impact on hops utilization as long as you maintain a boil. That said, I don't know what you mean by the IBUs being "locked".

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

As far as I know, adjusting the flame will have no impact on hops utilization as long as you maintain a boil. That said, I don't know what you mean by the IBUs being "locked".

I have to think he's confusing IBUs with aroma/flavor contributions

[chuck_d]

If you aren't making a hops addition until 8 minutes left in the boil you might consider shortening your boil time. I would say only boil the wort for a half hour, this is assuming you have a strong boil going. Then you'll achieve all goals of boiling wort without wasting 30 minutes worth of time and energy. The things that you would have worry about if you did decrease your boil are the decreased extract (because you didn't boil off as much water, but you can plan for that), high DMS levels could be a problem (which is why I said you want to have a strong boil), insufficient hot break formation (but if you've got a strong boil, at 30 minutes it shouldn't be a problem). The utilization curve drops off dramatically at around 30 minutes, so you should still be materially at the same IBU value although just a touch under. One advantage is if you are trying to make a light colored beer you'll have decreased maillard reactions and so a lighter color.