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#1 *_Guest_Matt C_*

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 07:34 PM

I've been reading about the Reinheitsgebot a lot lately and I saw something I had never noticed before. The law says that you cannot use anything in the way of brewing salts to adjust PH. In retrospect it IS a purity law so it makes absolute sense. So,how do they adjust mash PH? Acid Malt. It has natural lactic acid that will drop PH. My question is how do you employ this type of ingredient and adjust the PH correctly? Trial and error? Is there some sort of measurement I can figure on for say a pound of acid malt? I would assume a place like Munich with such hard water would add a lot to make their Helles, and not add any to make darker beers like a Dopple or black lager.

#2 3rd party JKor

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Posted 21 June 2010 - 07:35 PM

I have some acid malt. I haven't fooled around with it though.

#3 Malzig

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 01:02 PM

There's a brief write up on Kai's site here, but this is the chart you need:Posted Image

#4 Malzig

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 01:12 PM

He's got this incorporated into his water spreadsheet, too.(Man, you don't get much time to edit your post, do you?)

#5 *_Guest_Matt C_*

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Posted 02 July 2010 - 10:35 PM

There's a brief write up on Kai's site here, but this is the chart you need:Posted Image

Can anyone explain this in a real working example? This diagram seems a little like an enigma to me. what are the varibles in using this malt over using just lactic acid? If I use say a pound (less/more) in a recipe, (i realize it depends on the recipe) but how can I be sure it will at least be close to the correct PH for full conversion? By the way I tried Kai's spreadsheet and thats not making much more sense either. :rolleyes:

#6 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 03 July 2010 - 05:45 AM

Can anyone explain this in a real working example? This diagram seems a little like an enigma to me. what are the varibles in using this malt over using just lactic acid? If I use say a pound (less/more) in a recipe, (i realize it depends on the recipe) but how can I be sure it will at least be close to the correct PH for full conversion? By the way I tried Kai's spreadsheet and thats not making much more sense either. :rolleyes:

pick a mash thickness (pick one of the colored lines), pick an amount of pH shift (x axis), and then see what percentage of your grain bill should be acidulated malt (y axis).ETA: I've never done this but that's how I would read that graph.

#7 *_Guest_Matt C_*

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 05:35 PM

pick a mash thickness (pick one of the colored lines), pick an amount of pH shift (x axis), and then see what percentage of your grain bill should be acidulated malt (y axis).ETA: I've never done this but that's how I would read that graph.

Ok. understood,but what would the PH shift from??? My water PH or the mash PH? If its the water PH, my water sits at around 7.3 so that would mean about 2 points which is not even on the graph here, unless I am still misunderstanding.

#8 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 05:08 AM

Ok. understood,but what would the PH shift from??? My water PH or the mash PH? If its the water PH, my water sits at around 7.3 so that would mean about 2 points which is not even on the graph here, unless I am still misunderstanding.

My guess would be the mash pH.

#9 *_Guest_Matt C_*

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 06:55 AM

My guess would be the mash pH.

Ok that makes sense. I was thinking in a recipe sense, in other words adding what you need before the mash. But in retrospect you really don't know how much to add until you mash in. What I usually do when checking the mash 1) is mash in,2) wait 10 mins,and then 3) check for the proper ph and then adjust accordingly. Instead of adding lactic acid, you add some cracked acid malt to adjust acid malt?

#10 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 05 July 2010 - 07:53 AM

Ok that makes sense. I was thinking in a recipe sense, in other words adding what you need before the mash. But in retrospect you really don't know how much to add until you mash in. What I usually do when checking the mash 1) is mash in,2) wait 10 mins,and then 3) check for the proper ph and then adjust accordingly. Instead of adding lactic acid, you add some cracked acid malt to adjust acid malt?

I would guess that's the way to do it but like I said - I've never done it so take this with a grain of salt.

#11 Stout_fan

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 11:11 AM

... (Man, you don't get much time to edit your post, do you?)

Become a patron.$5 ... cheap!

#12 3rd party JKor

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Posted 06 July 2010 - 05:09 PM

Ok that makes sense. I was thinking in a recipe sense, in other words adding what you need before the mash. But in retrospect you really don't know how much to add until you mash in. What I usually do when checking the mash 1) is mash in,2) wait 10 mins,and then 3) check for the proper ph and then adjust accordingly. Instead of adding lactic acid, you add some cracked acid malt to adjust acid malt?

For commercial brewers they know what they need to add to get their pH right beforehand. For homebrewers, we adjust on the fly. If you want to try to figure out what your mash pH is going to be beforehand you can use John Palmer's Residual Alkalinity Nomograph in How To Brew to give you a ballpark estimate.

#13 Malzig

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Posted 09 July 2010 - 09:46 AM

What I usually do when checking the mash 1) is mash in,2) wait 10 mins,and then 3) check for the proper ph and then adjust accordingly. Instead of adding lactic acid, you add some cracked acid malt to adjust acid malt?

Correct. If you want to adjust the pH after checking it in the tun, you decide how much you want to drop the pH, then add the required weight of Acid Malt, determined by your mash thickness and grist weight. So, if you're at 1.89 qt/# and want to drop the pH by 0.2 on a 10# grain bill, you would add 3% of your grist weight, or 0.3# of Acid Malt.If you want to predict how much to use, ahead of time, you need to use Kai's spreadsheet. Start filling it out with your values and you'll probably find it pretty self-explanatory and it will probably become clear as you have fewer boxes to fill in.


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