Made a "near beer"... ultra low efficiency
#1
Posted 03 May 2009 - 12:22 PM
#2
Posted 03 May 2009 - 12:25 PM
#3
Posted 03 May 2009 - 01:28 PM
#4
Posted 03 May 2009 - 01:30 PM
Not to mention how teeny tiny Rye Malt kernels are, if your LHBS crush was already crap, there is probably a lot of uncrushed rye malt in thereIf I were you I'd either ask your LHBS to double mill the grains or go over them again with a rolling pin when you get home. A normal efficiency of 55% is crazy low, let alone 42%. Is there anything else in your system that you think may be hurting your efficiency?
#5
Posted 03 May 2009 - 01:33 PM
+1, yeah...more info please: processes, mash tun style, etc. First step could be have your grain double-crushed and see if that makes a difference. If it doesn't, then either you should adjust your technique or maybe your tun has issues. But the sooner you start troubleshooting the sooner you will have an answer.If I were you I'd either ask your LHBS to double mill the grains or go over them again with a rolling pin when you get home. A normal efficiency of 55% is crazy low, let alone 42%. Is there anything else in your system that you think may be hurting your efficiency?
#6
Posted 03 May 2009 - 04:57 PM
Edited by noofus, 03 May 2009 - 04:58 PM.
#7
Posted 03 May 2009 - 05:48 PM
#8
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:07 PM
I noticed some variation this time now that I think about it.Usually I heat my strike water to around 168 if I want a mash temp of around 153. This time, when I got to 168 on the strike water and mixed everything together, my mash temp was 165 all around. Why didnt I lose the 15 degrees I normally do?I cooled it down with a few pints of cold water and it held around 156 the whole hour.Do you monitor your mash temp throughout out the mash?
#9
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:07 PM
#10
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:11 PM
Hmmmm, interesting. Were you using the same thermometer to measure the strike water temp and the mash temp?I noticed some variation this time now that I think about it.Usually I heat my strike water to around 168 if I want a mash temp of around 153. This time, when I got to 168 on the strike water and mixed everything together, my mash temp was 165 all around. Why didnt I lose the 15 degrees I normally do?I cooled it down with a few pints of cold water and it held around 156 the whole hour.
#11
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:30 PM
#12
Posted 03 May 2009 - 06:56 PM
wow, thats, weird, never had that happen, like JK said, was that with the same thermo?I noticed some variation this time now that I think about it.Usually I heat my strike water to around 168 if I want a mash temp of around 153. This time, when I got to 168 on the strike water and mixed everything together, my mash temp was 165 all around. Why didnt I lose the 15 degrees I normally do?I cooled it down with a few pints of cold water and it held around 156 the whole hour.
#13
Posted 04 May 2009 - 06:13 AM
Same thermometer.Hmmmm, interesting. Were you using the same thermometer to measure the strike water temp and the mash temp?
#14
Posted 04 May 2009 - 06:16 AM
Yea, I have 2 full kegs of beer on tap already. This one wont be getting into the kegerator until probably mid to end of July...Along with a BoPils I have in my lagering fridge, I will have some good hot-weather beer available.I am just glad I was able to rescue this one with the lb of DME I had in my stash of beer ingredients. 1.045 will make it a good lawnmower beer instead of a very bitter near beerLet it age for a good while for the hops to mellow out a little...you get a really crisp lawnmower beer...Crush, Mash temps, and amount of water used are probably the culprit...a good thermo reading is really important....i have been noticing that my attenuation on my last 10 or so batches has been pretty high compared to what the yeast descriptions tell me, and they are being fermented in a temp controlled mini fridge. So I finally went out and got myself a traceable thermometer so I know my readings will be dead on.
#15
Posted 06 May 2009 - 05:12 AM
#16
Posted 06 May 2009 - 03:16 PM
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