Need a false bottom
#1
Posted 11 June 2010 - 09:51 AM
#2
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:09 AM
#3
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:10 AM
I am not sure I know what that isSS braided toilet water line.
#4
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:13 AM
#5
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:14 AM
i currently use the stainless bazooka tubeCopper manifolds are cheap and easy to build, will fit that square cooler nicely
#6
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:16 AM
#7
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:17 AM
#8
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:17 AM
#9
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:20 AM
how is a false bottom going to help with the dead space in your cooler?as for the clogging: I was under the impression that bazooka screens were superior to SS braid (which is what I have) and I haven't had any problems with clogging with my setup.cause its a pain in the arse stirring it up and leaving a ton of water in there. just looking for something more efficient
#10
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:26 AM
#11
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:31 AM
#12
Posted 11 June 2010 - 10:36 AM
You shouldn't stir it while you are lautering. The malt should set up a filtering bed around the Bazooka screen and then just let the wort run out. Do you fly or batch sparge? How do you get the wort from the cooler to your boil kettle?then maybe i am doing it wrong. i have to stir it up constantly to get the mash out
#13
Posted 11 June 2010 - 11:07 AM
If you want a big screen, look for stainless supply lines for water heaters.You can use the SS braid for use on cars. The braid slides over the rubber hose for dress-up. I think you can buy it by the Foot @ auto parts stores It is a wider diameter than SS water lines for appliances so you will get a faster flow rate.
#14
Posted 11 June 2010 - 11:17 AM
I have the cooler on a higer table and let gravity work in to my keg to boil. It clogs after a short time, thus the need for some sort of false bottom.You shouldn't stir it while you are lautering. The malt should set up a filtering bed around the Bazooka screen and then just let the wort run out. Do you fly or batch sparge? How do you get the wort from the cooler to your boil kettle?
#15
Posted 11 June 2010 - 01:09 PM
maybe you are milling the grain too finely. do any of these recipes where it clogs have a lot of wheat? that is also a factor (why people use rice hulls when they make wheat beers).I have the cooler on a higer table and let gravity work in to my keg to boil. It clogs after a short time, thus the need for some sort of false bottom.
#16
Posted 11 June 2010 - 03:06 PM
Copper manifold like SB suggested. Works great here, rarely have a flow problem even with 50% wheat and no rice hullsI have the cooler on a higer table and let gravity work in to my keg to boil. It clogs after a short time, thus the need for some sort of false bottom.
#17
Posted 11 June 2010 - 04:34 PM
A manifold made all the difference in the world for me. I made mine out of CPVC instead of copper. Im a cheap ass. I used to have lots of problems with my braided line collapsing, or it seemed to take forever for the grain bed to settle. I would vorlauf for days. Now it is a breeze. Efficiency improved. Id never go back.Copper manifold like SB suggested. Works great here, rarely have a flow problem even with 50% wheat and no rice hulls
#18
Posted 11 June 2010 - 04:36 PM
#19
Posted 11 June 2010 - 04:39 PM
#20
Posted 12 June 2010 - 05:53 AM
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